Lets talk radiators.

[Charger4404spd]

Some of you know I am building a 505 stroker and plan on a 8-71 blower. Im concerned about keeping her cool and would like some input on aluminum radiators. I have heard a 2 core with 1" tudes cools better than a 3 or 4 core with smaller tubes.

I dont want to spent $5-8oo on one if I dont have to. I have looked at the ones on ebay that are priced right, but I dont know anyone that has tried them. What have you guys had luck with?

[A383Wing]

I have heard a 2 core with 1" tudes cools better than a 3 or 4 core with smaller tubes.

that's what I put in all of my Chargers...holds more water by volume...my opinion

[Ghoste]

Surface to volume ratio?

[1974dodgecharger]

CUDAKEN had a blower in his he can offer lots of advice...he kept it very cool.

[myk]

I have heard a 2 core with 1" tudes cools better than a 3 or 4 core with smaller tubes.

that's what I put in all of my Chargers...holds more water by volume...my opinion

Any specific models you would recommend?

[A383Wing]

I got mine from this ebay seller

http://stores.ebay.com/id=379846745?ssPageName=STRK:MEFSXS:MESST&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2653

[myk]

I got mine from this ebay seller

http://stores.ebay.com/id=379846745?ssPageName=STRK:MEFSXS:MESST&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2653

Fascinating.  How does this radiator perform against other radiators you've used in the past?  That's a GREAT price for what they're offering, and their mini-factoid on 3 and 4 core 'rads was quite an eye-opener.

Question: does it have provisions for mounting the stock fan shroud?  Is this designed to fit directly into the factory 'rad mounting locations? 

[War wagon]

I run the BeeCool aluminum rad in mine with dual electric fans.
Very expensive but Guarenteed to support 700hp...
They make many different models , I opted for the big bad one knowing my future plans for the car
So far it has worked flawlessly

Just a heads up thou... The fan relays are 40 amps each and there are 2. You better have an upgraded alt. if you wanna run elec fans

I should also say mine has an internal tranny cooler as well. I also plumbed a second tranny cooler in line

[Ghoste]

So is there a balance point between having a large volume of coolant and sufficient area to transfer the heat to the surrounding air?  You need fins too right or else we could just run with a giant tank of coolant any old place?

[War wagon]

Taken at new hamburg in 2013, this motor is using a BeeCool rad



And here is mine..

[War wagon]

My father is running a Wizard rad on his 496 in his Belvedere. It's been in there for about 7yrs, works ok.... But doesn't like to idle long or temps will rise. It uses 2 x 1 1/4" cores
If it won't cool the new 572 he will switch to a BeeCool rad as well.

[Charger4404spd]

So far looks like I may have to spend the big bucks because I do want it to stay cool idling in traffic. Id anyone running one of the ebay rads in a high horsepower car?

[myk]

What's wrong with the 'rad that 383Wing linked to?  It's only $300.  If they're good enough for him I'd give that 'rad a shot, especially if it means avoiding those mega-buck 'rads...

[myk]

I got mine from this ebay seller

http://stores.ebay.com/id=379846745?ssPageName=STRK:MEFSXS:MESST&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2653

So this radiator has a built-in 'trans oil cooler; does that mean that I don't need the factory cooler mounted in the front of the car? 

[Ghoste]

Most of the factory rads have a built in cooler and if you run everything in a factory configuration that should be enough.  If you start to abuse the trans or put in a higher stall converter, you should run both.
Myk, are you sure you don't have a cooler in your rad or that the auxilliary one is a factory one?

[myk]

Most of the factory rads have a built in cooler and if you run everything in a factory configuration that should be enough.  If you start to abuse the trans or put in a higher stall converter, you should run both.
Myk, are you sure you don't have a cooler in your rad or that the auxilliary one is a factory one?

Didn't all of the Chargers come with a 'trans cooler mounted in the front of the car?

[Ghoste]

Nope.  Hemi's and that might be about it.  I'll check the books, maybe air conditioned cars and trailer towing packages but most did not.  What about your rad, is there a cooler in it Myk?

[myk]

Nope.  Hemi's and that might be about it.  I'll check the books, maybe air conditioned cars and trailer towing packages but most did not.  What about your rad, is there a cooler in it Myk?

...............I just assumed there wasn't one in the 'rad because of the external one.  Wow-all these years I thought the 'trans cooler was standard equipment.  My car did have air?

Ok thinking about how my car is set up there are lines that go to the bottom of the 'rad (trans cooler), and then there's also the external unit in the front of the car.  This isn't right, is it?

-Just came from outside.  Ok-there is a line from the 'trans that runs into the external cooler.  Then, there's a line that goes out of the external cooler into the bottom of my 'rad.  Then, another line goes from the bottom of the 'rad back to the 'trans.  Weird, right?

[A383Wing]

nope...all automatic cars had trans cooler in bottom of radiator...the external one has been added

[myk]

nope...all automatic cars had trans cooler in bottom of radiator...the external one has been added

Alright, so does the 'trans cooler in the 'rad have to run in conjunction with the external cooler, or is it supposed to be one or the other?  Which one is better?  Also, I take it that the manual cars had external coolers?

[A383Wing]

no coolers on manual trans cars...

those who put extra coolers on either tie them in with the original one in the radiator, or just use the external one all alone. I put a stand alone unit in front of the radiator in the Daytona....I completely by-passed the cooler in the lower part of the radiator. Some say run both, some say not....and I ferget which way to run lines if you run both.

I run just the external so I'm not heating up the radiator with hot ATF to keep the coolant from getting warmed up by trans fluid

[RECHRGD]

no coolers on manual trans cars...

those who put extra coolers on either tie them in with the original one in the radiator, or just use the external one all alone. I put a stand alone unit in front of the radiator in the Daytona....I completely by-passed the cooler in the lower part of the radiator. Some say run both, some say not....and I ferget which way to run lines if you run both.

I run just the external so I'm not heating up the radiator with hot ATF to keep the coolant from getting warmed up by trans fluid

What the Wingster said.  Hey, 383 Wing, how do you like the rad that you linked to?  I've got a two row aluminum one made by Northern.  It will still warm up on a hot day in traffic and has no drain cock. I'm thinking of replacing it.

[bill440rt]

I have a Griffin aluminum radiator in my '69. VERY happy with it.
Mounts right in the stock location, you can even mount a stock fan shroud to it if you wanted to. Trans cooler bungs are in the stock location as well, although I also run an external trans cooler also. Basically, a "stock" configured radiator made entirely of aluminum. Even in 105* summer heat with the A/C cranking the car stayed cool.

[A383Wing]

What the Wingster said.  Hey, 383 Wing, how do you like the rad that you linked to?  I've got a two row aluminum one made by Northern.  It will still warm up on a hot day in traffic and has no drain cock. I'm thinking of replacing it.

I'm very pleased with mine...actually have the rad in all 3 of our Chargers.....these hold a lot of water. Has provisions to mount factory shroud as well. Both my 66's are manual trans cars, cooler not needed. And I'm not using the cooler in the Daytona either. This rad really cured my overheating issues.

[RECHRGD]

What the Wingster said.  Hey, 383 Wing, how do you like the rad that you linked to?  I've got a two row aluminum one made by Northern.  It will still warm up on a hot day in traffic and has no drain cock. I'm thinking of replacing it.

I'm very pleased with mine...actually have the rad in all 3 of our Chargers.....these hold a lot of water. Has provisions to mount factory shroud as well. Both my 66's are manual trans cars, cooler not needed. And I'm not using the cooler in the Daytona either. This rad really cured my overheating issues.

Thanks!  I might just get one coming.  Can't go too wrong at that price...

[myk]

What the Wingster said.  Hey, 383 Wing, how do you like the rad that you linked to?  I've got a two row aluminum one made by Northern.  It will still warm up on a hot day in traffic and has no drain cock. I'm thinking of replacing it.

I'm very pleased with mine...actually have the rad in all 3 of our Chargers.....these hold a lot of water. Has provisions to mount factory shroud as well. Both my 66's are manual trans cars, cooler not needed. And I'm not using the cooler in the Daytona either. This rad really cured my overheating issues.

Thanks!  I might just get one coming.  Can't go too wrong at that price...

The seller for that particular 'rad states that it has stock mounting holes for the 'rad itself and the factory shrould.  Again, I liked their little factoid about 2, 3 and 4 row 'rads and what truly makes a better performing radiator.  At this point I'm debating whether I should be running both 'trans coolers or not...

[A383Wing]

the only issue I had with it was I did not like the holes for mounting the shroud...they were real close to the tubes & fins...so I tapped the 4 holes for the shroud and installed 1/4" studs and used nuts & washers to attach shroud

here is mine with trans cooler in front...note pusher fan, was there with the other radiator...figured I would leave it there, but have never had to use it since this install

[Lord Warlock]

My AC car has a full length radiator in front of the 26 inch radiator and is hooked up tot he AC system, not the auto transmission, the transmission has fittings that go into the bottom of the stock 26 inch radiator. 

[Ghoste]

Thats a condensor for the air conditioner.

[RECHRGD]

I've got the small 22" yoke.  Will it restrict too much air for the 26" radiator to be an advantage for me?  The height looks fine, but I'd be blocking about two inches on each side.

[A383Wing]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

[RECHRGD]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

Thanks...  It looks like the drivers side lower hose location is real close to the tie rod, but I assume it's ok....

[Ghoste]

Might not make a difference in some cases but I bet it does in others.  It isn't just the volume the of coolant, the transfer of heat to the air has an effect as well and the more fins exposed to that airflow, the more heat transferred out of the coolant.

[A383Wing]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

Thanks...  It looks like the drivers side lower hose location is real close to the tie rod, but I assume it's ok....

if it's close to a "tie-rod".....something is installed wrong.... 

[RECHRGD]

Well, I know that my current rad has the lower hose inlet tilted up to avoid it.  Maybe I'm not using the proper name for what I'm calling a tie rod.  If the area of blocked air flow presents a problem, I'm sure I could open up some area to allow for some flow without making it look like a butcher job.  I would just like to avoid it if possible...

[Ghoste]

About the only thing it should be close to is the k frame.

[RECHRGD]

Ordered it today...  I'm sure it will be fine.  They are made in China, nothing but good reviews though.....

[myk]

Ordered it today...  I'm sure it will be fine.  They are made in China, nothing but good reviews though.....

You keep us updated now, ya hear?

[Cooter]

Gonna say this one time. Rebuilding transmissions for a living, I see idiots hooking the coolers up wrong almost DAILY.

When attempting to run BOTH coolers, you MUST.....I REPEAT, MUST find the OUTLET out of radiator cooler to use as the INPUT on the add on cooler. THEN BACK TO TRANS.

It serves no purpose to run the hot fluid out to the add on cooler, cool it, then pump it right back through the radiator cooler to heat it right back up again. The purpose of dual coolers is to DOUBLE cool the fluid. First by the coolant, then again by air.

[A383Wing]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

[Cooter]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

After 50 years of morons swapping round lines, cutting lines, and generally rigging/twisting the two all up to where they look like a county road map, take both off, put in a bucket, get someone to fire up car and look see.

[myk]

Gonna say this one time. Rebuilding transmissions for a living, I see idiots hooking the coolers up wrong almost DAILY.

When attempting to run BOTH coolers, you MUST.....I REPEAT, MUST find the OUTLET out of radiator cooler to use as the INPUT on the add on cooler. THEN BACK TO TRANS.

It serves no purpose to run the hot fluid out to the add on cooler, cool it, then pump it right back through the radiator cooler to heat it right back up again. The purpose of dual coolers is to DOUBLE cool the fluid. First by the coolant, then again by air.

Ok.  So 'trans-OUT, to 'rad-IN, 'rad-OUT to cooler-IN, cooler-OUT back to 'trans....Right?

Question: does it matter what side of the 'rad or 'cooler is plumbed as "in" or "out," as long as the sequence of the lines matches the above?  It shouldn't matter, is what I'm thinking.  Ultimately however, I may just bypass the radiator; I don't think I need double the cooling, unless any of you have any say on that matter...

[Ghoste]

Yes it does matter Myk.  The fluid flows FROM the forward most port on the transmission to the rad cooler port on the right hand (passenger side) of the radiator tank.  It then goes from the rad outlet which is on the left hand (drivers side) to the inlet of the auxilliary cooler tank.  When it leaves the aux. cooler from the outlet of that tank it goes TO the trans and enters it at the rearward port on the trans.

[Ghoste]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

As per Chrysler, the front one is the outlet to the cooler and the rear one is the return port.

[myk]

Yes it does matter Myk.  The fluid flows FROM the forward most port on the transmission to the rad cooler port on the right hand (passenger side) of the radiator tank.  It then goes from the rad outlet which is on the left hand (drivers side) to the inlet of the auxilliary cooler tank.  When it leaves the aux. cooler from the outlet of that tank it goes TO the trans and enters it at the rearward port on the trans.

I think I understand the sequence, or direction of flow, but I'm trying to understand why either side of the 'rad or 'cooler would matter-it's just a pathway for the fluid to flow, right?  Should my 'aux cooler have an "in" and "out" label on the ports?

[Ghoste]

Not so.  One way is taking the fluid INTO a hotter part of the tank and bringing it OUT at a cooler point.  The inverse being true.

[myk]

Not so.  One way is taking the fluid INTO a hotter part of the tank and bringing it OUT at a cooler point.  The inverse being true.

Heard that.  I'm pretty sure the routing is correct, but I'll be checking it out on my next day off...

[Ghoste]

You have an fsm too right Myk?

[myk]

You have an fsm too right Myk?

Yes, both an old reprint from Year One I bought back in '94 and a copy on CD.  But, like Cooter says, I wouldn't be surprised if the lines/routing are all jacked up because of previous owners.  I still can't believe that the 'aux cooler wasn't standard, lol.  For 20 years I thought that thing was factory installed...

[Ghoste]

Not always necessary.
If you look in the cooling section of the manual you'll find a diagram for the fluid flow.  I can't remember the page but its a small section anyway so it should be hard to find.

[myk]

I think I found it: section 7-5 and 7-6.  Looks like the Hemi cars came with the 'aux cooler.  The flow diagram is hard to read, but it definitely corroborates what you were telling us about the front line being the "out" and the farther back line as being the "return" line. 

[Ghoste]

Thats it, yes Section 7. 

[RECHRGD]

Ordered it today...  I'm sure it will be fine.  They are made in China, nothing but good reviews though.....

You keep us updated now, ya hear?

Got it installed along with a shroud from Mancini Racing.  Started it up today and it held steady at 180 degrees after the t-stat opened and idling for a half an hour.  Even though it was barely 60 degrees, I think this radiator will cool much better than its predecessor.

[Charger4404spd]

I ended up buying a Griffin from Summit for $219. Two rows of 1 1/4"