73 CHARGER 400 combo question

[ajay716]

hey guys, as some of you know i recently got a 73 charger se brougham with the 400. it has 47000 original miles and is in good physical condition and runs and drives(a little rough though) i plan on replacing alot of the suspension and brake parts and do basic tune up and rebuilding the crappy 2 barrel. as far as performance on these cars go i dont know much. i know they have low compression,and that more compression usually means more power. what are some cheap ways i can do this? what are the most cost effective things i can do to make this smogger the way it should be? this is a list i have so far, let me know if it is good

Hedman 78038 Elite Headers(will these fit with power steering and a/c with little to no mod?)
Edlebrock 7186 Performer Intake
Edlebrock 14054 Carb 600 cfm
915 Heads Rebuilt with Hardened Seats(preferably) or 452 Heads Milled (but i have no idea where to get them someone help or suggest better ones)
Flowmaster Single Exhaust (already on)
A Cam (but i have no idea where to even begin here....)
K&N Air Filter and possibly a vented/scooped hood for more cool air to the engine.
Firecore Wires (those are the best, right?)
XR5 plugs when the 4brrl goes on, xr4 for now.
Premium(Performance)Distributor Cap and Rotor Airtex # 3D1072A

will this combo bump up the compression enough? what else can i do if not?

if anyone knows if i were to do all that up there what would my estimated hp and tq be? do i need to machine the engine to go with the heads or intake? thanks for your time sorry im new to this serious stuff lol thanks

if youre reading this please post something i need all the help i can get!! yeah you! thanks again.

ps sorry for all the questions but try to answer them, please and thank you

[justcruisin]

Get it running as good as you can with the minimum amount of $ and enjoy it how it is. Save your money for a 451/470 stroker kit and some descent heads down the track.

[ODZKing]

I gotta agree with Crusin' here.  I always ask folks the same thing ... "are you going to take it to the track"?
If not get it running good and leave it alone.  My

[ajay716]

well yeah i do actually plan on taking it to the 1/8 mile local track eventually...but im still looking for the answers to my questions, the stroker kit can come later if i want more power but will ^^that combo be good? pricevsperformance?

[ajay716]

BUMP any more opinions would be greatly appreciated

[Ghoste]

Those things will free it up a little.  Have you checked any of the threads in the Proven Combos forum?

[BSB67]

Your list is fine.

But it is kind of a meaningless list without knowing your budget.  Value, or $/performance, that is a personal opinion as well. 

A good set of 915s (no porting)  will be good for that motor.  But good 915s will not be inexpensive.  Personally, I will spend the money necessary for a good set of 915s in some applications, but it is likely not the best $/performance.  Aftermarket aluminum probably is.

A good set of 915s, dual exhaust, Lunati or CC 268ish cam, factory 4 bbl intake, and a 750 cfm carb will make a significant increase in hp from what you have now.  I think you'll be on the sunny side of $2,000 for just that stuff and that is with buying used intake and carb.

[XH29N0G]

Most on here know more than I do about these cars.   I was in a similar situation ( I think) and used the opportunity to learn more about the car.  I'll tell you what I did and maybe it will help, and others will probably pipe in too.  

I had a 70 383 (higher compression and lower bore but same stroke so I will assume some that applies to the 383 also applies to the 400 you have).  

With the 383, I went with the intake manifold you are proposing, but used a Holley carburetor. For my car (a 70) it required a drop base filter to fit the air cleaner.  

I went with a Holley because that is what my car had on it originally, and I had put several others on before. I went vacuum secondary 670 cfm but in retrospect think I would have preferred to dial in a 750 cfm double pumper since I have a manual transmission.  I found tuning the Holley manageable and a very good learning experience.

Swapping the manifold does not need machining (the good thing about the forum is that someone will correct me if I am wrong).  

When I was a kid, I put in some headers and it was not a big deal.  My more recent experience with Hooker Comps ended up being more of a big deal to put in than I expected.  They went in, but with the B engine hang low.  I will probably try TTI for the B engine (though expensive) if I change them out.  I don't have experience with Hedman's, but have read positive reports on them.  Most here say it is worth it to go with TTIs though.

I ultimately changed the heads and cam.  

I would wait to see if someone with more knowledge weighs in.  I called several cam companies and then went with a recommendation from Ron (firefighter) to go with a (lunati) 262/268 10230702.  I do not know how that would work with your set up, but someone on here will know which one will work.  I did not see information about transmission and gearing and I think that will be needed for people to pipe in.  

I went with RPM heads, the change for both was not super difficult.  It is important to degree the cam to check that there are no issues with it mostly and to have the heads looked over.  You will have spent a fair penny on them so an extra look is worth it.  There are others options as I am sure you are aware.  I think the Mopar 452 are available at Mancini, and there are stealth  and angle plug e streets too.  It may be that the small volume e-streets are what you want to bump compression.

I didn't mean to write so much, and as I said others here will know more, but I hope this helps.

[BSB67]

Most on here know more than I do about these cars.   I was in a similar situation ( I think) and used the opportunity to learn more about the car.  I'll tell you what I did and maybe it will help, and others will probably pipe in too.  

I had a 70 383 (higher compression and lower bore but same stroke so I will assume some that applies to the 383 also applies to the 400 you have).  

With the 383, I went with the intake manifold you are proposing, but used a Holley carburetor. For my car (a 70) it required a drop base filter to fit the air cleaner.  

I went with a Holley because that is what my car had on it originally, and I had put several others on before. I went vacuum secondary 670 cfm but in retrospect think I would have preferred to dial in a 750 cfm double pumper since I have a manual transmission.  I found tuning the Holley manageable and a very good learning experience.

Swapping the manifold does not need machining (the good thing about the forum is that someone will correct me if I am wrong).  

When I was a kid, I put in some headers and it was not a big deal.  My more recent experience with Hooker Comps ended up being more of a big deal to put in than I expected.  They went in, but with the B engine hang low.  I will probably try TTI for the B engine (though expensive) if I change them out.  I don't have experience with Hedman's, but have read positive reports on them.  Most here say it is worth it to go with TTIs though.

I ultimately changed the heads and cam.  

I would wait to see if someone with more knowledge weighs in.  I called several cam companies and then went with a recommendation from Ron (firefighter) to go with a (lunati) 262/268 10230702.  I do not know how that would work with your set up, but someone on here will know which one will work.  I did not see information about transmission and gearing and I think that will be needed for people to pipe in.  

I went with RPM heads, the change for both was not super difficult.  It is important to degree the cam to check that there are no issues with it mostly and to have the heads looked over.  You will have spent a fair penny on them so an extra look is worth it.  There are others options as I am sure you are aware.  I think the Mopar 452 are available at Mancini, and there are stealth  and straight plug (?) e streets too.  It may be that the small volume e-streets are what you want to bump compression.

I didn't mean to write so much, and as I said others here will know more, but I hope this helps.

I think that this is pretty good advise.  And, yes the E-Streets would be the better choice.

[heyoldguy]

'Cause it's been mentioned here, just so's yah know, Edelbrock E-Street heads have angled plugs.

[XH29N0G]

Thanks for the clarification.  I'll fix that in my post. 

'Cause it's been mentioned here, just so's yah know, Edelbrock E-Street heads have angled plugs.

[ajay716]

thank you all, i have checked the proven combos section, i know everyone says that but if you go look there arent any that have just a regular old 400, most are stroked or have things that are over my budget/range of skills.but like i said thanks i will take a look at those heads too...they will bump up compression more than the closed chambered heads?
im trying to stay as low cost as possible without getting junk(i know thats hard lol). id say my budget is around 3,000 right now...and i have an automatic transmission not sure of the gearing i think it hasnt been changed though.....i know i have pretty much all the basic stuff down but is there anything else i am missing before i would stroke it? also, i know this is a newbie question but what do i need and how do i adjust the timing? and when i do all this i should need to readjust right?

[XH29N0G]

To adjust the timing, you will need a timing light.  There is a mark on the vibration damper and a tab on the timing chain cover.  The light fires when the #1 plug fires (usually reads by induction).  When the light fires, you will see the mark on the damper if you are pointing it at the tab.  

I do not know what yours will look like, but there is a picture at :
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61723.0.html


To check base timing, you will want to disconnect vacuum advance and you change it by rotating the distributor housing.  The mark on the damper will line up differently relative to the tab (which has its own markings).  

There is a bracket that holds the distributor in place and keeps it from rotating and you loosen the bolt to allow the housing to be rotated.  You probably want to mark where it is now in case something happens.

I think you have an electronic ignition by 73, right, so I do not know what else needs to be checked with electronic ignitions since mine was points based.

Also, if there is a service manual, see if you can get ahold of it.  The factory service manual for my year is very helpful.

[Scaregrabber]

What do you want the end result to be? If it was mine I would do it in steps. First of all I would tune up what is there, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor. When I was satisfied it was running properly I would add headers and dual 2.5" exhaust. Then I'd probably add a 650AVS on a used, iron 383 square bore manifold and then live with the car a bit and see how happy I was with it.
At that stage you haven't spent much and haven't spent much that couldn't be applied to a much stronger build if you think you need it. At this point if I wanted a bit more I would add a camshaft and maybe a convertor, if I figured I wanted a lot more then I would plan a stroker build with an aftermarket set of heads etc.
Oh and your gear is probably 2.94 or 2.76, it will be pretty hard to make it feel peppy around town with that gear in the back, I would check it out.
I had quite a few 400's which I bought new back in the day. The 2 bbl ones benefited greatly by just having dual exhaust and stock four barrel setups added.

Sheldon

[XH29N0G]

One additional point that may be worth considering is the impact that gearing can have on the feel of the car.  Torque is what gets you going, and torque at the wheels scales with the gear ratio.  If you have 2.94 and you switch to 3.23 or 3.55 it will bump the torque by 10% or 20% respectively.  The drawback is that it will also increase driving RPM by the same proportion which will impact highway driving so there is a limit, and any imbalance or problems with the driveline will become more obvious since things will spin faster.   

[Ghoste]

Yes.  If you can think of your rearend as a lever with the engine applying force on one end to move the vehicles mass on the other, changing the rear end ratio is like moving the pivot point.  One can move the mass a great distance more slowly and the other can move it a short distance quickly and easily.

[ajay716]

BUMPP lol If youre reading this and you have youre engine modified, please dont just read it and pass by, give your comment.:chatting: please and thank you, anyway. okay guys, so i finally decided to spend some cash to get a little more out of my girl, on some things that i can hopefully install myself.

i got the:
Hedman 78038 Elite Headers-363.99(i talked him down from 403.99) they are htc elite duty coated the best you can get for coating from them
Edlebrock 7186 Performer Intake-248.16
Edlebrock 1411 750 cfm electric choke(mainly to go with the edlebrock intake and with the other mods this should be not too much fuel right?)
Flowmaster Single Exhaust)-(Installed) 350
K&N Air Filter e1530- 34.95
Firecore Wires-around 100$ im guessing getting as soon as Ron gets back to me
MSD ignition 8200 blaster 2 coil chrome-44.99
XR5 plugs-26.99
Premium(Performance)Distributor Cap and Rotor Airtex # 3D1072A-12.76
Black Slotted and Drilled Rotors w/Hawk Hps pads and new Shoes in the back drums(already installed)-200
New Battery (Installed)- 100
New Battery Grounds/Connections - 40

after all this i will adjust and advance the timing a bit to get her running right with the new stuff, and also get some better gearing in the back.

I also have a bunch of new MOOG ball joints tie rods bushings and new MONROE fronts and new KYB shocks in the back- about 100$/ Not to mention some chrome valve covers and other chrome dress up stuff.

I spent around 1500 give or take a hundred or so on all this stuff shipped to my door, i know i asked this, but after all these mods and the timing and gearing, without the heads and the cam, will this thing be alot quicker than it was stock? and how much of a difference will those heads and a right cam make? or am i better off saving the heads and cam for later and getting the stroker kit? please read and answer my questions, i like to learn and know things, especially when i need to know them! lol thanks so much guys youve been a big help, but like i said if you read it down to here, please say what you think of this as far as how i did on the pricing and if they are good first mods for a beginner mopar guy. thanks again!!!  :cheers:

In the future, when i get enough, my next big mods will be the 440 source stealth heads-1000, a cam-350, a locking diff-???(can someone reccomend one for me?) and a performance dizzy-250.

that could be it, but if i want to do more i will order the 440 source 470 stroker kit and rebuild the engine with that-2000 plus labor(i've never really rebuilt an engine so it would be mostly all labor, thats why its last, i want things i can work on that are still beneficial relatively to the price.




Oh ps, i got a wheel and tire package 18 inch mb old school rims with hankook ventus v12 245.45.18 and 275.40.18 for only 1226 shipped mounted and balanced from discount tire direct....great guys, if you wanna see pics or more info heres the link, check it out and let me know what you guys think:   http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107725.msg1315368.html#msg1315368 and for the last time, thanks.

[XH29N0G]

My  

It looks to me like you have caught the bug (like I did) to start playing around with modifications to the car.  A number of these changes should be noticeable.  As far as quicker than ..... that depends.  If I were trying to make something as quick as possible, I would not take this route, but would instead see what those here who make fast cars have done and take their advice.  But that is a different situation and one where experience helps. 

If you are trying to get something that is noticeably more fun to drive and to learn on the way, then your approach is a good one.  I did this in steps because making a few changes rather than a whole lot at once got me where I wanted and gave me the time to learn what I did right/wrong and what needed tweaking. Then I would try the next step.  

A hard lesson I learned was that the biggest difference for me ended up learning to tune the car correctly.  I would check everything over and do a compression test and other things to figure out where the engine stands.  It is old (even though not super high mileage) and things may have changed from new (stock).  It may be that a new (stock) 2 bbl will be faster than an older modified version just because the tolerances are better, but I wouldn't preoccupy myself with that.  

My guess is that the change from a 2bbl to a 4 bbl will be something you will notice.  Changing the rear gears may be even more noticeable, but will have collateral consequences and I think it more complicated/difficult than the manifold carb change.  

When I was doing this, and wanted to know, I figured out some way to get a baseline for the car (rolling speed x to speed y), and then saw how it changed with the changes I made.  In the end that was really the only way I could convince myself that something made a difference.  I am sure there were many things I did that did not make any measureable difference and I thought they did (I way overcarbed mine once and I bet that slowed it, but I am sure I thought it was better at the time.  I didn't have a baseline and was 17 y.o. at the time).

Best of luck with the changes and enjoy.

[BSB67]

My  


If you are trying to get something that is noticeably more fun to drive and to learn on the way, then your approach is a good one.  I did this in steps because making a few changes rather than a whole lot at once got me where I wanted and gave me the time to learn what I did right/wrong and what needed tweaking. Then I would try the next step.  

A hard lesson I learned was that the biggest difference for me ended up learning to tune the car correctly.  I would check everything over and do a compression test and other things to figure out where the engine stands.   

My guess is that the change from a 2bbl to a 4 bbl will be something you will notice.  Changing the rear gears may be even more noticeable, but will have collateral consequences and I think it more complicated/difficult than the manifold carb change.  

When I was doing this, and wanted to know, I figured out some way to get a baseline for the car (rolling speed x to speed y), and then saw how it changed with the changes I made.  In the end that was really the only way I could convince myself that something made a difference.  I am sure there were many things I did that did not make any measureable difference and I thought they did (I way overcarbed mine once and I bet that slowed it, but I am sure I thought it was better at the time.  I didn't have a baseline and was 17 y.o. at the time).

More good advise there.  The baseline thing is a big deal if you want to actually learn something and systematically make the car faster.  Here are your two options for baseline and measuring changes: dyno, or track.  Cam, heads, 4 bbl, no brainer, you'll put more power in the car, but how much?  All the other stuff, you'll never know if it helped.  You cannot feel a 10 hp increase driving your car on the street.

OP, did you intentionally leave heads off your list, which is fine, just curious.  And I would stay away from the 1407/1411 carb.  If you want an Eddy carb, try the Thunder series instead.

[ajay716]

yeah i know the heads will provide a beneficial gain i will just do it later when i have the cash to really open the engine up....and why not this carb? its a 750 will it flow too much or are there bad reviews?? whats good about the thunder or is it just one you have used and liked?

[XH29N0G]

There was a recent discussion on carbs that might help sort some out.  I have only used Holley carburetors.  If you haven't already, take a look at; http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107366.0.html and maybe also do some searching through the forum with the search command.  If you hit the little magnifying glass beside the box, you can streamline your search more.

[Scaregrabber]

I also would reconsider the 1411 AFB and would recommend either a 650 or 800 (my preference) AVS or a 3310 Holley over the 1411. You are keeping the single exhaust? I would go dual 2.5 exhaust if it was mine.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

i already ordered it...if i can find a cheap header back dual system that is for my car(not custom) and that work with my headers i will do it, if there any any beneficial gains over the single flowmaster exhaust system...does anyone have any suggestions? will there not be enough exhaust flow to benefit the 1411? and did i make a mistake by orderding that or is it fine but there could be better options? sorry for the questions but please answer all of em. thank you

[XH29N0G]

It depends on what diameter your single pipe system is.  I am not familiar with the system you describe. 

I did a quick search a few weeks ago on the web and found a web page that was informative at: http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/  I had to remind myself that the HP numbers on those tables are not hard and fast, but that they show what might optimal - meaning without significant loss.

My guess is that the factory 4 barrel systems from your year used something like a 2.25 inch dual exhaust system (I do not know).  If the single exhaust is the same diameter, there may be some restriction that would come into play at high RPM and conceivably some loss of power, but my guess is you won't see it at low RPM.  If I already had the system installed, I would probably leave it for now and reconsider later.  As always, see if others have a different opinion.

[ajay716]

but is the 1411 good for my application? like with all the other mods will it be okay? cause i already ordered it..or is it still tooo much fuel? i just need to know if its fine or i need to return it....thanks guys!

[XH29N0G]

Whether a 1411 is good for your application is not something I know enough to comment on.  I believe that scaregrabber recommended the AVS, which unless I am mistaken, is the thunder series. 

look at that thread I posted earlier on 'Which carb to choose"  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107366.0.html

There are others, but this is one where there has been a lot of recent discussion with a number of good points made. 

[Scaregrabber]

I would send back the AFB and order a Thunder series AVS. A lot of experienced tuners have trouble getting the AFB to run smoothly in all ranges. The AVS will work better for you.
I am not sure but I think Summit used to list a bolt in dual exhaust for your car. You could run a single 3 inch I suppose but please not a single 2.5 or 2.25.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

Okay I'm going to ask a few more things , at you sure the more performance orientated thunder and higher cfm will be too much for my setup?and are they harder to tune then performer like a Holley or are they basically ready to run out of the box? I really don't have the money for a dual exhaust right now and speaking of that, how good are the jegs and summit exhaust systems.... Are the name brand ones worth the extra gain or is metal metal and Id only see a maybe 5 hp increase at mos with a more expense setup? Sorry for all the q's but thanks fuys

[ajay716]

I'm considering it really now as long as it won't be too much for my single system I hear edelbroccl runs on the soft side and with the intake manifold and land n I should be good and headers but since I have a 73sgould I get electric choke? An if I can can I also set up a manual choke? Lmk cause I kinda wanna get it now if I can just tue the 800 down enough for my application

[ajay716]

bumpp cause im getting the carb tomorrow and i wanna message the seller and see if i can get the 800 for a cheaper price, its a 50 dollar difference for only 50 more cfm but actually performer 750 with electric choke isnt recomended for my rpm intake manifold, but the manual choke is, thats why i need to know if i can run an electric choke on a 73 i should cause its electronic ignition i believe if that has something to do with it.....also whats better about the avs 800? have you guys heard good things and i just need to know if it will be too much or not....soon please not trying to rush you guys

[ajay716]

and that link you provided proved i need a dual exhaust, i think i have a single 2.5 inch pipe, maybe even 2 1/4 and those have a max hp range of 185(2.25) and 232(2.5) with these mods i think ill be up to at least 250 with about 375 tq and a dual 2.5 system is good for 463 which is good cause il be adding more things for more power later, but now it wont be too big for my power im making wil it? cause im going to get the thunder avs 800. Are the cheaper dual exhaust systems worth it? please ppl i know ive asked alot but im almost done, can you answer these q's and some of the ones in the last posts, thanks


alex

[ajay716]

manual or electric choke on it though 73 with electronic ignition...and can i put a manual on an electric later..

[Scaregrabber]

The secondary air door on the AVS is very easy to tune, that is the biggest difference. You can run electric or manual choke on either one. The 73 700 had an electric assist choke as I recall so the wiring is even there for you.
I haven't used those bolt in exhaust systems myself, I just have seen them listed. I would imagine they'll work just fine though.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

well i had a 2 barrel not if that was a 700 if thats what you mean, but im glad the electric choke is also manual so thats a plus, i will send the other back, i might get this deal for the 1813 (800 electric choke) for 350-360 shipped and im going to get that stainless x-pipe system from summit mounted to my headers....im going to get it just as long as its not going to be too much fuel for my mods....please let me know i know its been asked and answered but just confirm one more time for me that the fuel flow will be fine with my big engine and the fact that i have all these supporting mods? thanks again.

[Scaregrabber]

You're good, the stock 4 bbl flowed that much.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

thanks guys, i got the universal stainless x pipe kit and with some 12 inch extensions and im getting the 800 thunder series, you were right the 750 electric choke was not recomended with the 7186 intake manifold...thanks1111

[firefighter3931]

It appears that you're on the right path with all these suggestions. 

One thing that hasn't been mentioned so far is the timing chain. The original chain & gears will be pretty tired at this point. Once the chain stretches the cam timing will be retarded. One quick and easy upgrade on an otherwise stock low compression smog motor is to install a nice double roller timing set and advance the cam 4* 

The cam advance will give the engine more bottom end power and throttle response. Comp has a line of economical double roller timing chain sets that hold up very well from my experience. 

Once you get it up and running you will need to tune the timing curve to maximize performance. Most low compression smoggers respond well to lots of total advance...some as much as 42* 

Definately get a set of 3.55 gears out back. With a heavy car you need torque multiplication to get that beast moving with authority. 



Ron

[ajay716]

i am running out of budget not going to lie...is this something i would be wanting...http://store.440source.com/Billet-3-Bolt-3-Way-Adj-Timing-Chain-Set-New/productinfo/102-1004/ if not can you point me in the right direction


the rest of the mods that i plan on puttin in for now that i will get later because no more funds now
gears
a cam
stealth heads
new perf. dizzy-is this worth it
suregrip
stroker kit


my shift button broke thats why i can type any question marks lol, but out of all the stuff im getting, will i see more of an improvement with those or the stuff i just listed here excluding the stroker kit like which set of mods will yield more performance...i know combined itl make great power
+

[firefighter3931]

Ajay,

The stock cam uses a single bolt attachment so the set you linked won't work. The Comp Magnum timing sets are excellent quality and very affordable. The "Magnum" double roller has a 4* advance keyway so you can advance the cam when installing the new timing set. Definately worth doing, inmo 

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-2104/overview/make/plymouth

*Ignore the picture in the Summit link....3 bolt upper gear in illustration. This is the correct PN for your application. 

As for all the parts you've listed ; sure they will all help. I would focus on tuning the current combination. Fuel and ignition are your biggest priorities at this point. Good exhaust will help. After that, the next step would be a suregrip with some deeper gears. 

I would save the engine rebuild (stroker) for last because you will need to get a new Tq converter to match the engine combination and most likely have the trans rebuilt at that point.

Keep it simple for now with basic bolt ons and tuning. 



Ron

[ajay716]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

[ajay716]

and for my next spending of 1000 would i see more gains from just the stealth heads with everything i have now, or would a cam, gears and suregrip be better with everything i have now, or should i just save 2000 and get everything together....

[XH29N0G]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

I think there are two types of timing and you may have them confused (I apologize if I have misread your question).  The timing Ron is talking about relates to the rotation of the cam relative to the crankshaft.  This is related to the timing of the valves (when they open and close).  This would be set with the timing chain as Ron suggests. 

The second type of timing is the Timing of the spark - when the spark ignites relative to the position of the piston.  This is what you change by rotating the distributor.  What I think Ron is suggesting is that you run the spark timing quite advanced because it will suit your engine well. 

[firefighter3931]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

Ajay,

Yes, direct replacement for stock timing chain & gears.

Yes it will increase bottom end power and throttle response. The stock chain has stretched over time and the cam timing will be retarded from the original factory installed spec. We're going one step better by moving it to a 4 degree advanced position. This really helps to compensate for the low compression the 400 engines suffered from. 



Ron

[firefighter3931]

and for my next spending of 1000 would i see more gains from just the stealth heads with everything i have now, or would a cam, gears and suregrip be better with everything i have now, or should i just save 2000 and get everything together....

I would do the suregrip and 3.55 gears next. Get a feel for the car and optimize the tuneup to get the most out of it for the time being....and in the meantime save up for your stroker.

You'll be able to drive & enjoy the car 



Ron