How to make your build more reliable?

[hatersaurusrex]

So I'm at that milestone in my build where I start sourcing drivetrain parts.   My car has no need to be original or even correct, I'm looking for reliability-type upgrades.  I plan on doing a lot of road trips with the car.   I'm putting a completely new drivetrain in it, and want to trade originality for functionality, since none of it's original anyway.    Don't want to go resto-mod crazy with drag-link suspension or a viper engine, but do want to upgrade what's there to make it more solid while keeping it simple enough to wrench on myself and/or source parts easily.

Car was originally:

'68 383 4v XP car
727
8.75 rear
Drums all around (power)
No A/C
No Power windows


The plan is to build:
440 (still sourcing - probably get a Sherman-type reman if I can't find a deal)
727 (not rebuilding original, have no idea how good it is
Keep the 8.75
Upgrade to discs (factory if I can find some A-body units)

So the question is mainly around these areas:

Ignition - want to move to electronic ignition - best vendor for this?
Carb - The 440 will likely be a smedium compression unit - so not a lot of CFMs needed.   Good model for reliability and service life?   Any particular manifold?
Wiring - I'm looking at one of the painless units - dozens of K's of money dumped into a fire hazard does not appeal to me
Brakes - Most bang for the buck with a disc swap?   Are the A-body parts still readily available these days or should I just order aftermarket here?   Any other models good for donors?  There seem to be differing opinions on things like J-body spindles or the like.   Are the fronts good enough or would you do all 4?

Any trouble areas I should pay attention to?   Any oddball areas prone to failure that need more maintenance? (joints, spindles, hubs, etc)

Thanks in advance guys.  Just putting a checklist together as I start sourcing this stuff.

[BROCK]

A new Edelbrock AVS of about 600cfm would be ideal for your purpose. 

The later F, M, J front suspension parts will also work - be advised that
the spindle is 0.75" taller.  Checking bumpsteer through full jounce and
rebound is mandatory. 

Without A/C your stock radiator might be just fine ( they usually were at
least for 70 often the same part number all other options being equal ). 
In 70, you got a 22" radiator on a 440+6 Auto (no A/C & 3:23 gears).  I
just prefer the 26" radiator - but if you have the 22":  It's good to know
that it should do for a street car.  The support is not the same from 22 to
26. 

Just some of the minor parts are all I can open with here.  Looking forward
to hearing what others add to the pot!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Ignition-Go with a firecore distributor with an msd ignition box. Don't go with the mopar orange box distributor kit. The quality is crap and I believe they have finally discontinued the kit.

Wiring-Get rid of the alt gauge and swap to a volt gauge. Or at least do the proper wiring upgrades if you keep the old gauge. The reproduction wiring kits from M&H are great products.

Lighting-Most people forget about updated the headlights. Since you plan on road trips make sure that you can see what is ahead and other people can see you. No need to go crazy but get a set of relays and some modern bulbs. Makes a huge difference.

Brakes-For best functionality go with disc brakes at all 4 corners. A lot of guys like to use kits off older stuff but there are tons of aftermarket kits that fit in 15" wheels, fit a variety of spindles, come in full kits with everything needed, have multi piston calipers, and use common pads that can be found in any auto parts store(And in better pad compounds). If you want to get the best performance out of the brakes and have power steering look into a hydroboost brake booster. Expensive but by far one of the safest and best things to add to any old car.

Don't forget about sound deadening the whole car. Long trips in a loud hot car are no fun.  

I know you said you don't want to go crazy with the suspension but do a little updating. Good aftermarket parts are out there for decent prices. A set of Firmfeel or PST control arms, a great set of shocks, a nice sway bar, and get a proper alignment. These few things will make a huge improvement.

Also look into a mini starter. Car will start way better and less juice to get it cranking.

[green69rt]

I don't want to stomp on R-A-W69 answers because I am thinking about the same items.  His advice is what I will probably follow or really close.  Only thing is that I will stay with a 10.5" drum rear brake system.   All new but not a disc setup, but I will get a top notch front disc system (probably from Dr Diff.)  Only my opinion and what I have bought.

[fy469rtse]

Yes what  has been said above , go with brand harness, just look up the threads on here for upgrades for factory ills to original wiring issues, 800 AVS edelbrock for 440 , 600 a touch too small, factory had 650 on there 383's,
Forget about the painless wiring its a pain to run alter firewall for it to fit ,
upgrade and relay headlights, actually the relay upgrades can be done to most things to take load of most things,
up grade the rear drums to 2/5" finned drums ,
stainless steel brake company have a good complete kit near stock disc  so fitment good and all the hardware included,
upgrade master cylinder and get one of the repopped bendix dual diaphragm power booster
New brake lines a must and will be needed because of the changes anyway, will need proper proportion valves as well

[DAY CLONA]

"How to make your build more reliable?"....Well I've driven all my rides around the country, driven thousands of miles in HotRod power Tours, driven thousands of miles to show events, or track events, just to trash the car, then driven it back thousands of miles, in the rain, cold, sunshine, didn't matter, and I'm talking multi carbed cars, HEMI cars, heavily modified cars....it's not a particular combo that's reliable, nor brand, but a careful selection of quality parts, and one component no one has mentioned...execution of a proper installation, and double/triple checking all your work, or the work of others, all the best parts in the world, are useless, if the installation was flawed ...I've worked with individuals/associates who hastily slap something together only to see it fail, and then blame the components for failure...mechanical failure is surprisingly due in most part to installation error, and operator error when you take the time to trace the root cause of a components failure, assuming your using a quality component..... that being said, regardless of the components chosen, assume nothing...check everything, then check it again, make sure the desired components are going to work accordingly with one another,...you cut corners, buy junk, don't know the condition of components your installing, or don't know the proper installation procedure of said components,..then you've already shot yourself in the foot, before you've even hit the road

Mike

[Mike DC]

 
Get the electrical system absolutely rock-solid, whatever you do.  Old wires are generally crappy just by definition after 45 years.  The copper builds up resistance with age even if nothing else goes wrong.  Some people would argue that the factory under-built the whole system to begin with too.


And never expect to slam a big portion of the car together right before you leave on a trip without having problems.  Stranger things have happened but its stupid to rely on it workout out so well.  It probably just means you will start the trip tired, and tired of messing with the car, while the car still needs more messing with.  

[myk]

Reliability?  Bring it back to absolute bone-stock, with new, quality OEM style components of course...

[six-tee-nine]

If you have no idea how the tranny is rebuild it or have it rebuild.

No hassling around when you look for parts. If you find an interesting part that is unknown to you ask it here if the quality is ok.
lots of good stuff out there but also alot of garbage

[War wagon]

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned but if your not fussy on stock appearance I would strongly recommend a aluminum rad with electric fans.
Mopars run hot with the stock rad IMHO and don't like too sit in traffic. Since I put an aluminum rad in mine with electric fans it can idle all day even on the hottest days

[1974dodgecharger]

Just a heads up all this requires money....just fyi. 

[Mike DC]

   
100% agree on the aluminum rad/fans suggestion.  If you've got a decent running big block and you plan on driving south of Kansas then it's pretty much impossible to overdo the cooling system.  Modern gasoline runs hotter even if the rest of the car was stock.

[stripedelete]

Reliability?  Bring it back to absolute bone-stock, with new, quality OEM style components of course...

[Homerr]

How about a bolt on EFI setup?  More reliable starting in cold/hot and adjustments for altitude.

[Mike DC]

 
Bone stock is most reliable?  I don't think so. 

Stock is more reliable than a bunch of go-fast parts.  But not if the aftermarket changes are being made for reliability purposes.  And reproductions of the stock parts have a way of being built for looks rather than long term reliability too.

[70 Charger RT]

I'm looking at one of the painless units

I used a harness from "It's a Snap" on my 70 rebuild.  I'm not sure if they're still around.  As far as the firewall, install the original bulked connector both male and female with all original wires removed.  Then drill a 3/16" hole through the bulkhead connector where the original spade connectors used to reside, and then feed the appropriate new wires through the holes you drilled in the bulkhead connector.  Wrap the new wires with electrical tape after you have them where they terminate.  There.  Now you have a new harness that looks original.  At the same time, you can install a headlight relay kit near the rad cradle or under the battery.  Electronic ignition is the way to go.  Mopar sells a nice ignition kit in my experience.

[green69rt]

Just another thought.  Cooling is also important to the tranny.  If you have an 727 then I would add a deep sump transmission fluid pan (has a plug so makes it easier to change fluid.)   Also add a separate transmission cooler in front of the radiator.  You can just run it in series with the cooler mounted in the bottom of the radiator or just bypass the stock unit altogether. 

[b5blue]

Brakes start here: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html  (Lots of solid info. at a good value.)
Engine, I'd go with having an experienced Mopar builder/build over a general rebuilt engine, same for the 727. Just because you are not sure what you start with don't dismiss the 727 you have now. Axle from Dr. Diff is good, you'll want a 3.23 gear.
You'll save a ton by rebuilding the chassis with all stock "type" stuff, rugged and reliable. (Possibly add adjustable front struts and reinforcing plates to the LCA's.)
It's cheaper in the long run to replace the harnesses with new stock type than building from a kit or scratch as mistakes can happen. I use a Denso 120amp Alt and it works fine with a 2 wire solid state regulator, add a new OEM Brand ALT. Gauge as they are rated for 60 amp. unlike the 40amp original.  I've clocked 18 years including 1,000 mile straight through runs to points unknown by mostly sticking to good old Mopar HD parts and spec. in good repair.
Keep asking questions here, I'm amazed at the wealth of good willed, freely shared information these guys have.