trunk floor replacement panels... suggestions on sellers?

[Lord Warlock]

That's why I got a two piece, to get the pan pieces in the trunk without taking the rear panel off, split into two pieces you can get both into the trunk opening, the middle has a flanged edge for a butt weld, the right side fits on top of the left side.  Doesn't make it easier to do the welding though, one side will be easier than the other as i can stand inside the trunk area to weld the left side, the right side i'll have to be inside the trunk sitting on the left side to do the right, not gonna be fun.  Will likely do the rear welds first.

[MxRacer855]

Would you know if that two-piece trunk floor that was recommended in this thread comes with those pieces mounted for the gas tank "J-bolts" or do you have to get those separate? And if so... where?

[jaak]

Would you know if that two-piece trunk floor that was recommended in this thread comes with those pieces mounted for the gas tank "J-bolts" or do you have to get those separate? And if so... where?

No, either you have to remove them from your original floor (which I did, they were in good shape), if you need them AMD makes them. Several vendors carry them.


Jason

[MxRacer855]

Thank you Jason. Does 521 sell them? I looked in the "trunk" section and didn't see them. It's possible that I just overlooked it a handful of times.

Jeff

[jaak]

Thank you Jason. Does 521 sell them? I looked in the "trunk" section and didn't see them. It's possible that I just overlooked it a handful of times.

Jeff

About 1/2 way down this page he shows a 3-piece set, which includes both strap mounts and the cross brace, so I'm assume he sells them seperate, you can contact him to see.  http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=bbody&sub1=Trunk

Here is one on ebay from a different vendor, it shows and up close pic, and has the part number listed under 'Item Specifics'. http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-70-Mopar-B-Body-Gas-Tank-Strap-Brace-LH-RH-/350818988082?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51ae70f032&vxp=mtr

Jason

[MxRacer855]

Good call! That's why I missed it. I wasn't looking close enough at the "kit". I'm actually going to replace the trunk brace as well, so it works out perfectly.
Here's another question I have for you, although I'm waiting to replace the quarter panels at a different time to salvage the paint job now so I can drive the car this year, I want to replace as much as I can in the trunk area without damaging them. If you're looking in the trunk, the spots that you see between the trunk floor and the quarter panels are the... trunk floor extensions? They're pretty beat up too and I would like to replace them as well, but I don't know if it's possible without removing or damaging the quarters/wheel wells... And could you guys help me understand what "gutters" do?


You guys are helping me out so much on this trunk project! Thank you!

Jeff

[Lord Warlock]

If they are rusted or in bad shape, i'd say replace em,  not sure how they come off though, mine were still solid on both sides.  Pretty sure they are spot welded to the sides of the trunk floor and probably the rear valence, when i cut the quarter panel off on passenger side behind the wheel, I didn't see a weld to the extensions, but doesn't mean they weren't there.  The rear quarter panels go down further than the extensions do.

Got the twisted wire wheel on the grinder and went to town on the leftover sealer around the wheelwells today,  you weren't kidding about how messy it would be, looked like a spider went apeshit with webbing everywhere, i was covered in it from head to toe, luckily it vacuums up easy enough.  Finished up the trimming on the left over floor panels in the trunk, stripped off the paint, leftover fiberglass resin from earlier repair, and removed all the old rubber drain plugs that hadn't been removed yet.  Next step will be drilling the holes in the new sheetmetal pieces, hope to start that tomorrow and remove the e-coating from around the holes and along edges of the panels where i'll be welding, the weather looks like it will be warm enough, although next week looks like another cold spell so its important to get what i can done tomorrow.  

Have made arrangements for the headliner to be reinstalled next weekend, then the windshield will go in after that.  

[green69rt]

The trunk extensions are attached to the bottom flange of the quarters where the quarter turns under the car.  It's almost as if you could stick your hand down between the extension and the quarter till it meets that bottom flange.   I would guess that on almost all cars, there is not enough room to get anything all the way down that slot except a thin piece of sheet metal (and anything that you happen to drop that you don't want to go down there.. ).   It's a prime spot to lose things and to accumulate dirt, etc.

So you should be able to cut it out without ruining the outside paint.   How you will weld the new one in without disturbing the paint is another problem.

[MxRacer855]

I see what you're talking about. I just can't win though.  The bondo they put on the quarter panel is sealing it to the trunk floor extension. I don't see anyway removing the extension without all of the cracking out. Bummer.

[jaak]

Good call! That's why I missed it. I wasn't looking close enough at the "kit". I'm actually going to replace the trunk brace as well, so it works out perfectly.
Here's another question I have for you, although I'm waiting to replace the quarter panels at a different time to salvage the paint job now so I can drive the car this year, I want to replace as much as I can in the trunk area without damaging them. If you're looking in the trunk, the spots that you see between the trunk floor and the quarter panels are the... trunk floor extensions? They're pretty beat up too and I would like to replace them as well, but I don't know if it's possible without removing or damaging the quarters/wheel wells... And could you guys help me understand what "gutters" do?


You guys are helping me out so much on this trunk project! Thank you!

Jeff

These are the only two pics I got (they aren't that good). Like others said the spot welds will have to be drilled out along the bottom edge of the quarter. On the inside part (where lip of trunk floor and lip of extension are welded together) I simply buzzed through that part with a cut off wheel since I replacing the trunk floor anyways. First pic is the extension removed with floor still in place. Second pic is extension and floor removed. Also note in second pic, I had to trim a couple of inches off the bottom of the inner wheel house. The rest was good and solid, so I just fabbed up my own patch piece and welded in right there.

Jason

[Lord Warlock]

That would explain why I didn't see the welds, when i cut the quarters out I left the edges intact since they were solid and good metal I put in a patch panel in the crusty areas, ground out all the scale and rust that were on the sides of the extension on that side. 

Plan came together today, ground the e-coat off the edges of the trunk floor where i'd be welding, drilled the panels so i could weld through the holes to the good metal underneath as well as the frame rails and cross support bar, put the floor in place on the left side, realized a couple holes I drilled weren't quite in the right position as there was no metal under them, drilled a couple extra holes, fit the panel in place again, screwed it in place along the left edge and wheel well area to tighten the pieces together, put C clamps on the right edge, then broke out the welding machine and went to town.  The left side floor is now welded in place solidly (removed the c clamps and its on securely).  Welded the holes closed.  Still have to grind the welds flat again, as most of them formed a cap over the top of the sheetmetal, will have to be careful not to grind too much off and make it come loose again (had that happen with the quarter when i welded it in) Not the prettiest welding job on earth but seam sealer will eventually cover the welds along the left edge and wheelwell and along the rear tail light panel.  Not sure how I'll do the center seam without using filler of some sort.  May just use seam sealer there also. 

Quite pleased with myself, set a goal and exceeded it today, have to grind the welds along the center seam flat so i can start the right side panel next week.  Wish i was a better welder and could do it pretty like some of the others here, but more importantly I now have half a trunk again.  Have a few pics but they are on my phone camera, will have to move them to photobucket first.

[jaak]

That would explain why I didn't see the welds, when i cut the quarters out I left the edges intact since they were solid and good metal I put in a patch panel in the crusty areas, ground out all the scale and rust that were on the sides of the extension on that side. 

Plan came together today, ground the e-coat off the edges of the trunk floor where i'd be welding, drilled the panels so i could weld through the holes to the good metal underneath as well as the frame rails and cross support bar, put the floor in place on the left side, realized a couple holes I drilled weren't quite in the right position as there was no metal under them, drilled a couple extra holes, fit the panel in place again, screwed it in place along the left edge and wheel well area to tighten the pieces together, put C clamps on the right edge, then broke out the welding machine and went to town.  The left side floor is now welded in place solidly (removed the c clamps and its on securely).  Welded the holes closed.  Still have to grind the welds flat again, as most of them formed a cap over the top of the sheetmetal, will have to be careful not to grind too much off and make it come loose again (had that happen with the quarter when i welded it in) Not the prettiest welding job on earth but seam sealer will eventually cover the welds along the left edge and wheelwell and along the rear tail light panel.  Not sure how I'll do the center seam without using filler of some sort.  May just use seam sealer there also. 

Quite pleased with myself, set a goal and exceeded it today, have to grind the welds along the center seam flat so i can start the right side panel next week.  Wish i was a better welder and could do it pretty like some of the others here, but more importantly I now have half a trunk again.  Have a few pics but they are on my phone camera, will have to move them to photobucket first.

Sounds like a productive day  About the trunk seam in the middle, some folks grind it down and finish it off with filler to give it a factory one piece look. Since my car is a driver, and will probably have a trunk mat in it anyways, I simply put seam sealer over the seam. I noticed you said you mis-drilled in a couple of spots, what I like to do, is when I get floor pans fitted, I get underneath the car and trace out the frame rails with a magic marker. Then I pull the pans out, flip them over, then have a guide showing me where to drill.

looking forward to seeing some pics!
Jason

[Lord Warlock]

The mis drilled spots were along the crossbrace, the pan had an indentation where the ends of the crossbrace fit to the frame rails, and i used that as a reference where to drill holes, and when i laid the drilled pan on half or more of the hole was over the edge of the crossbrace, If I could see any part of the crossbrace underneath I welded to it anyway and built up the plug in the hole till the hole was filled.  The single other mis drilled area was next to the extension where i'd cut out close to the edge.  That was simply an oops moment, if i'd drilled two inches further along the edge there would have been metal underneath, i found a piece of the floor underneath near one side and filled the hole with the welder, grinding it could make it fall out though so I plan on not grinding those welds much since seam sealer will cover those welds anyway.  I plan on globbing it on over that edge similar to the factory did. 

The right side has alot more metal undeneath so shouldn't run into problems unless the holes on the crossbrace are wrong.  I drilled it after I fitted the other side in so hope I positioned the holes closer to the crossbrace.  I'll probably test fit the other side tomorrow or tuesday after i do some minor grinding along the middle seam and remove the screws I used to hold it in palce

[green69rt]

Still have to grind the welds flat again, as most of them formed a cap over the top of the sheetmetal, will have to be careful not to grind too much off and make it come loose again (had that happen with the quarter when i welded it in) Not the prettiest welding job on earth but seam sealer will eventually cover the welds along the left edge and wheelwell and along the rear tail light panel.  Not sure how I'll do the center seam without using filler of some sort.  May just use seam sealer there also. 

Something to consider on grinding you plug welds flat.   I've plug welded and later had to take the same part out and grinding the plug welds all the way flat can produce weak welds.  Consider grinding down but leaving a small flat "cap" on the weld to increase the weld area.  Especially in places that will be unseen for whatever reason.   The little hat can be masked by filler, undercoat, sound deading or mats.

[MxRacer855]

Great info guys! And thanks for the pictures Jaak. They were definitely helpful. You said that you ordered your 2-piece trunk floor to your residential address for under $250? 521 gives quotes of $175 for full items, but not for half floors and smaller items. Have any of you ordered smaller ticket stuff from them? I want to order AMD's 2-piece floor tomorrow, but I don't want to pay $175 for shipping...


Jeff

[Lord Warlock]

a few shots, not pretty yet.  just glad its there. 

[Lord Warlock]

ignore the datestamp, changed batteries and forgot what day it was.

521 sent the two piece floor to the residential address with free shipping off of their ebay store.  But the floor cost 392 not 250.  Basically was same price as tamraz, but they didn't charge an extra 25.00 to ship to a residential address.  Ships by truck freight, huge box.  Panels don't look that large in the trunk but they are pretty big.  

Good point green,  I don't want to grind them flush, just flattened on the top I plan on using a plaid grey trunk mat in any case so the floor is going to be covered anyway.   I'll be re primering and painting the trunk after it gets installed, probably after i fix the cutout in the rear valence where i had a small dent next to the corner piece.  Already cut the section out, have to replace the metal and weld it in, i'll be able to use the scraps from trimming the floors to fix that next.  Have filler, primer and paint leftover from paint job.  

Keep in mind, i've used this welder only once before, it isn't pipewelding like i learned on the oil rigs, totally different, and i'm kind of guessing on the settings on the unit.  Strangely I didn't warp any panels when welding.  Its more like tack welding a section at a time.  The rear quarter panel was my first attempt.  

Weird hole showing in first pic, upper right hand corner to right of the raised bump, there is a hole that doesn't exist on the factory floor, the spare tire brace would fit just to the left of this hole.  Have no clue what its there for, factory drain holes on the top flat part were expected, not sure if i'll even put in the rubber drain plugs in, would have to buy a new set of them anyway. 

[jaak]

Great info guys! And thanks for the pictures Jaak. They were definitely helpful. You said that you ordered your 2-piece trunk floor to your residential address for under $250? 521 gives quotes of $175 for full items, but not for half floors and smaller items. Have any of you ordered smaller ticket stuff from them? I want to order AMD's 2-piece floor tomorrow, but I don't want to pay $175 for shipping...


Jeff

I didn't order my floor pans from 521, I got them from adeals. Those are the 2 vendors I normally like to use for stuff like that. Yes they were 241 shipped, but they are not AMD panels, the are Sherman's. Main difference between Shermans and AMD is 1). All holes (for drain plugs, etc.) are already punched out in AMD panels, in Sherman panels they are not. The 'form' is stamped where holes are supposed to be, and if you want them, you have to use a hole saw and cut them out.  2). Sherman panels are bare metal, AMD has EDP coating on them. I just epoxy primed my floors when I was finished. And 3). Sherman panels are made in the USA.
It basically boils down to what you want to do, some people swear by AMD and think they are the bees knees. I have used AMD parts and I have used Sherman parts..... they both need massaging to fit.... a little hammering here, a little cutting there. I don't think ones really better than the other.
Adeal sells them on there eBay store for 269.99 shipped (for both halves), but like I said, if you buy them directly from their site, It's usually a little cheaper (I assume they ad a little to the price on eBay store to cover ebay fees).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1970-CHARGER-TRUNK-FLOOR-PAN-2-PC-MADE-IN-USA-FREE-SHIPPING-/121239344987?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACharger&hash=item1c3a6d975b&vxp=mtr

Good luck,
Jason


I couldn't find the finished pic of my trunk floors (probably still on memory card), but here is a pic of the finished floor pans. I used Sherman's 3/4 length floor pan halves. The rear footwell (right behind front bucket seats) had a little rust too, but I just cut out the rust and made my own patch for that area out of 18 gauge sheet metal.

[jaak]

Keep in mind, i've used this welder only once before, it isn't pipewelding like i learned on the oil rigs, totally different, and i'm kind of guessing on the settings on the unit.  Strangely I didn't warp any panels when welding.  Its more like tack welding a section at a time.  The rear quarter panel was my first attempt. 

 

Thats what I did, just practice and play with the settings/wirespeed. I am in no way a pro welder. I started on the floor pans, I did the passenger side half first. By the time I got to the drivers side, It started looking pretty decent. Like you said its more like tack welding sections at a time, until you 'connect' all the tacks, then check the backside to make sure I had good penetration.


Jason

[Lord Warlock]

Ahh, I remember Adeals from earlier in the thread, looked at the panels and was worried about identical halves if they sent it as pictured and went with 521 just to be on safe side, price to me wasn't a concern as i'd already spent 392 on tamraz and they refunded me.  Really don't need that many drain holes in the trunk anyway, aint no water getting into my trunk again in any case, only time it will see rain would be on a road trip to a show somewhere, and thats a future thing to worry about.  Nice looking floorpan, doing a GL?  I had a triple green 69 RT that color at one time, my car is currently using its engine and transmission.  

As long as the panels are from this continent i'm fine with them, american made is preferred but will take canadian if i have to.  I was lucky in that my original floors were rust free, only had a few pinholes under the heater core.

The big thing I'll recommend to folks, don't be afraid to try and do it yourself if you can, most times you'll find its possible, occasionally you'll fubar something up bad enough to remove and start over, and that could cost a little extra, but when you get done you won't be afraid to try much.  Didn't know what i was doing on my first engine swap either, after 3 or 4 you feel pretty confident.  After today i'm feeling a lot more confident with the welder than I was with the quarter panel. 

[jaak]

 Nice looking floorpan, doing a GL?  

Actually in that photo, it's before I got me a gallon of epoxy primer. I had a quart of Red 'Non Sandable' primer in my shop, so I just shot that on the pans after I finished. The lighting really makes it look orange in the pics. As far as GL clone....It's a possibility. For sure the car is going to be orange with tan interior, just don't know if I'm gonna install the decals, etc.

The big thing I'll recommend to folks, don't be afraid to try and do it yourself if you can, most times you'll find its possible, occasionally you'll fubar something up bad enough to remove and start over, and that could cost a little extra, but when you get done you won't be afraid to try much.  Didn't know what i was doing on my first engine swap either, after 3 or 4 you feel pretty confident.  After today i'm feeling a lot more confident with the welder than I was with the quarter panel. 

Well Said!

Keep up the good work,
Jason

[green69rt]

ignore the datestamp, changed batteries and forgot what day it was.

521 sent the two piece floor to the residential address with free shipping off of their ebay store.  But the floor cost 392 not 250.  Basically was same price as tamraz, but they didn't charge an extra 25.00 to ship to a residential address.  Ships by truck freight, huge box.  Panels don't look that large in the trunk but they are pretty big.  

Good point green,  I don't want to grind them flush, just flattened on the top I plan on using a plaid grey trunk mat in any case so the floor is going to be covered anyway.   I'll be re primering and painting the trunk after it gets installed, probably after i fix the cutout in the rear valence where i had a small dent next to the corner piece.  Already cut the section out, have to replace the metal and weld it in, i'll be able to use the scraps from trimming the floors to fix that next.  Have filler, primer and paint leftover from paint job.  

Keep in mind, i've used this welder only once before, it isn't pipewelding like i learned on the oil rigs, totally different, and i'm kind of guessing on the settings on the unit.  Strangely I didn't warp any panels when welding.  Its more like tack welding a section at a time.  The rear quarter panel was my first attempt.  

Yeah< I worked in in oil projects for about 15 years.  I understand that pipe welding is a big difference that car panel welding.  but at least you have some experience.   The big diff is that panel welding is so damn fine!!  A little diff on the welder settings makes a big diff on the final product.   Those that started or grew up on thin sheet metal welding don't know how big a change it is for us!!

[Lord Warlock]

Will add next update tomorrow evening if I do the other panel.  Weather is supposed to be coooold on wednesday so don't plan on working that day.  Garage doesn't have a decent heater, so has to be mid 50s or higher for me to want to work outside much.  Can't paint till weather warms over 70 and i'd want it to stay that warm overnight at least so may be late feb or march before I want to take that step, will spot primer welds to cover bare metal. 

Thanks for the encouragement.  Not stopping till i get it together and running well enough to drive again.  Not waiting another year, this will be the year the charger returns to life again.  (and the year my last kid leaves the nest to college, too bad she never saw me drive it)

[MxRacer855]

Great info guys! And thanks for the pictures Jaak. They were definitely helpful. You said that you ordered your 2-piece trunk floor to your residential address for under $250? 521 gives quotes of $175 for full items, but not for half floors and smaller items. Have any of you ordered smaller ticket stuff from them? I want to order AMD's 2-piece floor tomorrow, but I don't want to pay $175 for shipping...


Jeff

I didn't order my floor pans from 521, I got them from adeals. Those are the 2 vendors I normally like to use for stuff like that. Yes they were 241 shipped, but they are not AMD panels, the are Sherman's. Main difference between Shermans and AMD is 1). All holes (for drain plugs, etc.) are already punched out in AMD panels, in Sherman panels they are not. The 'form' is stamped where holes are supposed to be, and if you want them, you have to use a hole saw and cut them out.  2). Sherman panels are bare metal, AMD has EDP coating on them. I just epoxy primed my floors when I was finished. And 3). Sherman panels are made in the USA.
It basically boils down to what you want to do, some people swear by AMD and think they are the bees knees. I have used AMD parts and I have used Sherman parts..... they both need massaging to fit.... a little hammering here, a little cutting there. I don't think ones really better than the other.
Adeal sells them on there eBay store for 269.99 shipped (for both halves), but like I said, if you buy them directly from their site, It's usually a little cheaper (I assume they ad a little to the price on eBay store to cover ebay fees).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1970-CHARGER-TRUNK-FLOOR-PAN-2-PC-MADE-IN-USA-FREE-SHIPPING-/121239344987?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACharger&hash=item1c3a6d975b&vxp=mtr

Good luck,
Jason


I couldn't find the finished pic of my trunk floors (probably still on memory card), but here is a pic of the finished floor pans. I used Sherman's 3/4 length floor pan halves. The rear footwell (right behind front bucket seats) had a little rust too, but I just cut out the rust and made my own patch for that area out of 18 gauge sheet metal.

Thanks Jason, I think I'll just get the AMD stuff because of the pre-punched holes and coating. It just makes it a lot easier for me who doesn't have the most experience with this stuff. A friend of mine is a pretty good fabricator and is helping me get all of this done. He could easily do it, but time is money. I'm going to call 521 tomorrow and get a quote on all of it shipped to Chicago. I'll let you guys know what they say and we'll keep in touch!

I'll post a few pics of my project as well if you guys are interested. It's actually kind of an unusual way of going about it. Since the rear end, drive shaft, and trans are pulled, I began scraping all of the undercoating off with the car on jack stands. Remember, the care is completely COMPLETE with everything still on it. So When I say I started sand blasting the undercarriage. It's definitely a tough job to keep the sand contained. I'm extremely excited about it though. It's really cleaning up nice. I wish I could have done the rotisserie deal, but I'm sure I'll be able to afford and get there someday. In the meantime, we make due! 

Jeff

[Lord Warlock]

Weather was pleasantly warm today ( North Florida), and it was expected to cool off tomorrow and wednesday so figured I ought to get what i could done today.  Ground down some of the welds, but the discs on the die grinder weren't hacking it and would fray before anything got done, the 4 inch grinder only had a grinding/cut off wheel on it and wasn't doing much so had to take a trip to harbor freight to pick up some more discs of both types including a flap disk sanding wheels in 35 grit, 60 grit and 100 grit (4 inch) and 40 grit and 100 grit of the 2 inch discs for the die grinder (air powered).  

Once i got situated, got the welds nearest the middle seam ground down, then placed the 2nd panel in position only to find out there were 4 holes in the wrong place...damn, hate having to fix stuff, but drilled new holes in the right places and welded the cross brace welds and a couple near the frame rail to hold it in place, got those done and then ran out of wire for the welder....another trip to the store for more supplies, spent time replacing the wire spool with size 30 wire which was all that harbor freight had, previous wire was 24 steel wire.  Did not opt to finish the welds, instead i climbed inside the trunk area, set the C clamps in hard to reach spots, and then ground down yesterday's welds and today's as well.  The 30 grit flap sanding disc works great for what i wanted to do, once most of the weld was ground to buttons, took the 40 grit 2 inch wheels to work them down around the edges and smooth it to the pan,  Managed to cut or break the weld on 2 or 3 previous welds so i'll have to redo those tomorrow.  Middle seam butt weld lined up pretty well but wasn't perfect as the middle of the floor dips a little bit and it separated by 1/8 or less, I'll just have to fill it with filler later when i cover the seam with filler, still has plenty of overlap and both sides are solidly on.  

Won't have pictures to add till i get the rest of the welds done tomorrow or later in the week.  But...the big thing is that the car once more has a full trunk floor again and we are one more step in the right direction.