Hey six pack guys!

[b5blue]

  You may have seen I had some ethanol related crap going on with my six pack but that's fixed and the car is running again so I'm wanting to go back through idle set up. I've had pretty good results by generally using much of the information in this link:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=5995396&Searchpage=1&Main=5995174&Words=+Warrant_Officer&topic=&Search=true
  However some say setting bowl height 1/2 way up the sight hole and others just to the top so I'm wondering what any of you have found? Firstly after seeing many guys had broken clear sight plugs and the broken part ending up in the bowl is anyone aware of "good clear sight plugs"? (It would be nice to have them "if".)
  The higher level is suppose to help with "hard braking stumble" and keep the outboards from getting too lean when you really put you foot into it. (These are both things I have experienced in the past, but then I had other contributing factors also.)
  Are you doing idle setup in neutral as opposed to park on an automatic transmission car? Any advise or tips from your actual experience would be greatly appreciated.
  I just installed a new Firecore RTR dizzy and coil and have yet to final tweak it's settings for total and vacuum advance but it's close out of the box. I've made a test/tune rig from hose and fittings to replace the factory steel lines for now. The RTR sits a bit higher than a stock Dist. and that had the vacuum advance pod interfering with the steel line up from the return line canister so that was replaced with rubber for now also. The new coil just fits the old six pack coil bracket for clearance between the air filter base, rear outboard control pod and other stuff if your careful were to drill the three mounting holes and allow for the screws with nuts under the bottom of the coil bracket. (It's really close to the intake runner!) The wires and coil wire supplied are long enough to reach this location with no changes also.           

[Ghoste]

   Thanks for the link too.

[b5blue]

Your welcome!  If you've studied it, printed it out and highlighted many points in it (Like I have!) there is some conflicting information or tips between posts but generally it's very helpful.

[Ghoste]

Haven't yet but based on that I'm going to.

[BSB67]

At the risk of sounding a little harsh, at this point you need to start understanding how the carburetors actually work verses doing and repeating what you get off the internet or what others say.  If you understood what role the fuel level plays in the carb function, you could answer your own question.

Pick one of the two levels that you stated, it really does not matter much.  But the level will have a slight effect on both idle, cruise and WOT air to fuel ratio. So once you pick it, stay with it through your tune.  I prefer the higher level as it will start the main circuit on the outboard carbs a little sooner helping to cover the slight temporary lean condition that occurs when the outboards transition from the idle circuit at WOT.

I recommend using the brass fuel bowl plugs.

You can tune the idle in neutral.  Your best in-neutral idle tune may need to be slightly richened for the best in-gear idle quality.  You do need to make sure that the mechanical advance is not moving or changing from the neutral to in-gear idle rpm.

[b5blue]

  No worry! Your not harsh, you may not understand my post. (My bad.) I haven't changed bowl fuel level from the FSM's recommended even for center-dribble for outboards ever. In Troy's topic about clear sight plugs he tried it and didn't like the results a wile back.
  No pun intended but unless something has changed: it's clear you'll only use clear plugs for adjustment and even then you must be very careful!   
  I was checking in here to see if there was any current info/findings from other members. My car has been mostly out of use while I worked on body repairs the last few years.

[charger Downunder]

I set mine so the fuel just slightly came out over the bottm of the fuel site hole.

[BSB67]

it's clear you'll only use clear plugs for adjustment and even then you must be very careful!   

Right, or don't use them at all.  For the time it takes screwing around with them, you could have the floats adjusted.