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Bleeding brakes,changed brake lines

Started by kenny, December 26, 2013, 02:52:19 PM

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kenny

Hello there!
Having some trouble on my 69' charger with the brakes.Changed to the russel performance brake line kit,and can not get to get the brakes normal again.
The front calipers was mounted wrong from prevoius owner,so the bleed niples is now upside.So thats right now.have tried to bleed the system several times.Taken of the calipers and to get them high up,used the power bleeder.The good old fashion style,one pumping and one opening/closing the bleed valves.The air seems to come out,but wheni try the car it locks on the rear wheels and almost no stoping power on the front wheels.
The proportional valve i guess its ok,its not lighting up and the pedal feels normal after the bleeding.When i start it up and go for a testdrive,the pedal is very close to the floor.It was not like that before i changed the old brake hoses.

Any help is appreciated  :cheers:

b5blue

  Power or manual brake car? (Welcome to the forum Kenny!) I had a hell of a time bleeding my Charger brakes after they sat empty for a long time. In the end I bought a compressed air bleeder from Harbor Freight and even removed the restriction tip from the end of the tool. I let it rip wide open for quite some time constantly adding more fluid, eventually the air pocket cleared from somewhere. Fluid will bypass an air pocket in some parts of the system, the fluid flows but the air stays trapped. That MAY be your problem... :scratchchin:

kenny


Thanks for the welcome :)
Its a disc/drum originally.Im going crazy about this,it was working so nice before.But i have an obsession replacing old parts!
But after reading the dodge manual....ill try to test the pressure out of the proportioning valve.The book is ok,but it does not say how to replace that valve.And with headers,flowmaster exhaust its pretty ass to get to that valve....  :cheers:

b5blue

Be certain the imbalance switch is centered also, it's in the brass block that a wire runs to. (Normally if tripped you'd get a warning light) 

kenny

It was light,but not anymore.Can it be in wrong position if its not lighting up?

rt green

if you think the valve was tripped, try bleeding the rear. sometimes it will force the pinicle to move. if you are not going to put the calipers in with the bleeder up, then unbolt them, put a block of wood between the pads with the bleeder screw up. bleed like normal. whenever I replace hard lines or hoses, I always gravity bleed the line first. take the top off the master, and crack the bleeder open. walk away for a while and fluid will start dripping. then bleed as normal.
third string oil changer

b5blue

Quote from: kenny on December 27, 2013, 06:05:10 AM
It was light,but not anymore.Can it be in wrong position if its not lighting up?

You should be able to move it by pulling/pushing with pliers. The same light comes on if the parking brake is not fully up. (But anything can happen with 40+ years old cars!  :lol: )

68 RT

Sounds like you got air in the Master cyl.  Did system get to low while bleeding? If so you will have to bleed the master cyl.  :cheers: