Fixing the Infamous Charger Trunk Leak

[Crazy Larry]

One of the tasks I am going to tackle this Summer is fixing the trunk leak in my 68 Charger.

From what I understand the leak comes from the base of the back window where it meets the "fins" coming down from the hood. I see pine needles and leaves like to collect there in the Fall, so I guess it comes in from there.

Currenty, the trunk has a second generation trunk floor welded in, and it has some surface rust (which I will also take care of this Summer) but the last few years, I always have kept a towel in there and changed it out after it rains (Since the Charger sits outside and covered in the Spring/Summer).

The question is, is there a direct way to tackle this problem? I was think about shutting myself in the trunk with a flashlight, and having my friend spray down the Charger with a hose. Then I pinpoint the leak(s) and go about it like a plummer with sealant.

Is this too hokey - or maybe there is a better way to get the leak(s) sealed off?

[hotrod98]

Sounds like  great plan to me. It's the best way to pinpoint the entry point of the leak. Myself, I'm claustrophobic so I would have to have a backup plan for getting out. Sounds crazy but it's how a lot of people are.  And, let's hope your friend doesn't pull the old  "oh crap, I just broke the key off in the lock trick" .  That's the kind of friends that I have.

Let us know how it turns out.

[Drop Top]

No need to do that. Take out thr rear window. Clean out the chanel the window sits in with a wire brush. The problem will show up really quick. If your lucky all you will have to replace is just the corners. But, Do you feeling lucky?

[mister bungle]

Drop top is right. If the real leak is in another place than the place were it is dripping, then you will gather that water somewhere inbetween. = more rust. Sooner or later you will have to take the rear window out. Fix it right the first time

[Troy]

Oh, I forgot a few places in my other post...

The marker lights and tail light seals can also leak. If you have a vinyl top the trim can hold junk too and the area around the studs can rust out. Actually, anything with studs through the sheetmetal can have the same problem just not usually as bad (emblems, quarter extensions, tailpanel chrome trim, etc.). The bumber brackets could also leak. Many of these smaller looks won't be noticeable until you fix the bigger leaks but they are worth checking out.

Troy

[hotrod98]

Let me get this straight.
You guys are telling someone to remove the back glass even though the leak might be somewhere else.
I say determine where the leak is first. If it's at the back glass remove the glass and correct the problem, if it's at the trunk opening and the weatherstrip is bad, replace it, if it's at the fuel filler area, replace the gasket or add sealant, if it's around the taillights, remove them, replace the gasket or add sealant, etc, etc, etc.

[Troy]

From personal experience, I have to fix the rear window channels on every Charger that I have. If we ran a quick poll on the site I'd be willing to bet that probably 80% of the members who've had their car apart had rusted rear window channels. It's not all that hard to take out the window and if the car is being "restored" or painted it's not a bad idea to clean it up any way. That doesn't mean that the rear window is the only place that leaks of course - just that it's the most likely culprit. It's also the most difficult to fix though and if my car was running/driving then I'd be sure to try a leak test before taking anything apart. Sometimes it is very hard to tell exactly where the water is coming from since it tends to runs down channels and seams away from the actual hole(s). Usually you can see the streaks left behind when it dries so if it's running down the rear wheelhouses there's only one or two places it can be from.

Troy

[MOPARHOUND!]

While in there with the trunk closed, look for any daylight, that's how we inspect semi-trailers for leaks.  Doesn't catch all of them, but helps identify the immediate problem areas.

Have your buddy shine a drop light around the outside areas in question if need be.

Also while you're in there, you can double check the depth of your trunk latch mechanism too, and adjust as necessary, versus trial and error from outside the car. 

[daytonalo]

HEY HOT ROD , GREAT ADVICE BUT HERES AN EASY FIX . SIMPLY PUT TAKE THE HONDA OUT OF GARAGE AND KEEP THAT ANTIQUE OUT OF THE ELEMENTS !

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Daytonalo's suggestion isn't that far off! My experience is that Charger trunk leaks are "MAGIC". At least as far as finding where they come from, and/or sealing every known/possible possability.

I have laid in the trunk while the car was hosed down, and can verify that if you're in there, and watching with a flashlight, you will not see any leaks whatsoever, however if you repeat the experiment with you on the outside, you will open the trunk and find moisture! If that's not magic, I don't know what is!

Good luck with your investigation, and please keep us informed if you discover anything. I have come to conclusion that it is caused by ghosts!

[CB]

you might also bring your girlfriend in the trunk, could be fun

[Crazy Larry]

you might also bring your girlfriend in the trunk, could be fun

Lord knows there's enough room in that boat of a car......

[hemihead]

I would do the trunk idea.Many old time body guys I know taught me to do that method.You just have to follow the water stream.Plus you have to know how the body was put together.

[BigBlockSam]

I would do the trunk 

[toqwik]

You don't have to even use water.  You can see the corners inside the trunk, and can see about 6-8 inches towards the center of the trunk.  Mine were easy to fix, with it up on jack stands, no trunk floor, stand up comfortably and repair from underneath.  great time to do some additional rust prevention....
Scott

[Crazy Larry]

You don't have to even use water.  You can see the corners inside the trunk, and can see about 6-8 inches towards the center of the trunk.  Mine were easy to fix, with it up on jack stands, no trunk floor, stand up comfortably and repair from underneath.  great time to do some additional rust prevention....
Scott

See the holes where it leaks?

I already have a new trunk welded in place so there will be a bit hassle to find them - but are you saying that they usually run from the corners of the trunk or where the windshield meets the trunk?

[toqwik]

If you lay in the trunk, you will see the corners where the window sits. It will be above where the trunk spring rods go.   Most all the leaks I have encountered come from this area. If not leaking there, you will surely see where it has been leaking by the stains.  Atleast look before the water test.  I know one my friends his had some rust thru there, and he didn't want to tear the window out and fix it right cause his paint job was fairly new. I treated the area from underneath with some rust neutralizer, then I mixed up some fiberglass resin and matt strips and fixed it from underneath.  Been about 3 years now and no leaks still and rust has not progressed

[Crazy Larry]

If you lay in the trunk, you will see the corners where the window sits. It will be above where the trunk spring rods go.   Most all the leaks I have encountered come from this area. If not leaking there, you will surely see where it has been leaking by the stains.  Atleast look before the water test.  I know one my friends his had some rust thru there, and he didn't want to tear the window out and fix it right cause his paint job was fairly new. I treated the area from underneath with some rust neutralizer, then I mixed up some fiberglass resin and matt strips and fixed it from underneath.  Been about 3 years now and no leaks still and rust has not progressed

Good deal - I'm making notes and will start from there before the water test (probably won't need it at that point). Got to love that Rust Neutralizer!

Thanks for the info!

[Drop Top]

That rust neutralizer will only work where you put it. If you don't take the window out and use it on both sides then how will it work on the other side. The rust will continue to work from the other side and eventually all you will have is a piece of fiberglass holding everything together.

The area in question is a nateral area for dirt, leaves and anything else that might be traped in that area. This with the combination of rain or just washing your car, will trap mosture and that is what has caused the rust problem to start with. So by fixing the problem from underneath and not doing it from the outside. All you are doing is buying a little time before it has to be done corectly.

Fiberglass over metal is never a permanet fix. It will evetually seperate and moisture will get traped inbetween them only to make maters worse. I have seen it too manny times. Fiberglass over metal it not a substitute for repairing it the right way. If this person took his window out today he would see the damage that has continued to go on. You really need to take the window out and go from there. I have seen windows blow out going down the road after they have repaired it from the underside. Then they had to fix it. Find the rear window and the trim that goes around it. Tell me witch would have been cheaper in the long run. If your just trying to fix it to sell the car. Then don't fix it at all and let someone that really wants the car fix it right. Shabby fixes is what makes repairing the car latter down the line so expensive. It also gives the hobbie a bad name.

[tan top]

That rust neutralizer will only work where you put it. If you don't take the window out and use it on both sides then how will it work on the other side. The rust will continue to work from the other side and eventually all you will have is a piece of fiberglass holding everything together.

The area in question is a nateral area for dirt, leaves and anything else that might be traped in that area. This with the combination of rain or just washing your car, will trap mosture and that is what has caused the rust problem to start with. So by fixing the problem from underneath and not doing it from the outside. All you are doing is buying a little time before it has to be done corectly.

Fiberglass over metal is never a permanet fix. It will evetually seperate and moisture will get traped inbetween them only to make maters worse. I have seen it too manny times. Fiberglass over metal it not a substitute for repairing it the right way. If this person took his window out today he would see the damage that has continued to go on. You really need to take the window out and go from there. I have seen windows blow out going down the road after they have repaired it from the underside. Then they had to fix it. Find the rear window and the trim that goes around it. Tell me witch would have been cheaper in the long run. If your just trying to fix it to sell the car. Then don't fix it at all and let someone that really wants the car fix it right. Shabby fixes is what makes repairing the car latter down the line so expensive. It also gives the hobbie a bad name.

[clausoe]

Before I took my rear window out I tried to locate the leak by lying inside the trunk. I did see water alright but it was impossible to find the actual holes because water magically follows all seams and cracks on its way through a car body, and if you find one hole there are always more you don't se. When I took out the window and tore off the vinyl I found holes that had to be welded on both lower corners, under the window trim where all the dirt and moisture gathers. There were also leaks around the most rusted screws for the trim clips.

The trunk also took in water from the trim holes for the vinyl trim on both sides of the "fins", also from bad sealing of the quarter panel seams under the trunk lid and last but not least water still gets in between the body and the tail lights.

[toqwik]

Droptop, you obviously did not read my post.  Sorry that my SHABBY repair helped save a friends Charger from rot.  What do you think this charger would be like with 3 years of water running in the trunk?   I wish I was a pro body man such as yourself, but I am just a common guy wanting to keep a decent looking Charger on the road.  Sorry if I gave a Shoddy opinion.....  And by the way, rust has not progressed at all, and my friend is very happy with his weekend repar. He wasn't wanting a 100 point resto for free, just the leaks to stop.  Guess I should have kept my option to myself

[Drop Top]

I'm glad you helped your friends car. But, like I stated before you only prolonged the rust for awile. In your case it may think it worked. If you where to take out the window right now you would see what I'm talking about. As you stated, he did not want to have to do a re paint. So for now it worked out for you. But the rust is still there because you did not take out the window and repaire it form the other side. Water and dirt is still getting in on top of the old rust and makeing it worse. Sorry if I steped on your toes. I did not mean to offend you. I am sugjesting the best way to get rid of the rust. Not just make it a temperary fix. In your case I would still sugjest takeing your friend's car window out and at least using POR-15 on it. That would be better then not letting it rust the rest of the way out. Then fix it right when the car get repainted latter. Fiberglass and metal do not mix well. They don't shrink and expand at the same rates and will eventually seperate. I have seen it too manny times. Its just the nature of it. You get to know these things from experance. Thats why I get the paid to do this for a living. To know these things. I would not expect for you to know these things because you do it as a hobbie. But if I remember right in this case the car has not been painted yet. So in this case I still recomend the rear window to come out. This way it can be treated and fixed to where he dosen't need to worry about it for a very long time. Maybe because I'm "A Pro" I should just keep my mouth shut so I don't insult people that don't know as much. This way I don't step on anyones toes and they can fix there car twice. Thats the ticket or is it cheaper to fix it right the first time?By the way I am only giving an opinon and not demanding anyone to fix there car the way I sugjest. I am just sugjesting to do it this way because I have been there and done that in most cases. But if someone wants to fallow your advice. By all means let them. Thats what this place is all about to get everybodys input. Then the people can make there own minds up as too how to deal with there problem. Have a good day.