Black paint and swirls

[Ghoste]

How do you keep those swirl marks out of black when you polish it?

[Fred]

By using an orbital polisher. 

[WHITE AND RED 69]

The swirls will happen no matter what when you are drying or polishing. Best thing to do to minimize these marks is use quality microfiber towels and not using drying chamois, those water blades, or thick household towels. To help further minimize scratches I like to use a product called Hydrate from AMMONYC. It is sprayed on the microfiber towel while you dry the car. It sounds weird to add more liquid while drying but I have noticed a difference and will continue to use it. 

Here is a great video showing how to remove those swirls. I've been hooked on these episodes and the products used.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYed_Hnrql4

[J.Bond]

Black is by far the hardest to keep unmarked. It is never the same after the first wash, fresh from the paint booth is virgin, after that it's a chore. Back in 76 I purchased a brand new black car and was frustrated with accumulating haze and swirl marks. A good friend of mine who was a custom painter came to the rescue with a 50/50 mix of green Turtle wax and white polishing compound, mixed in a food blender. Keep in mind this was 1976, he then stated NO MORE RUBBING CICLES IN THE PAINT!!!!! wax was to be applied in straight back in forth motions and removed in the same way. Much more time consuming, but better out come afterwards.  With the 67, first, the car was painted with acrylic urethane as apposed to base clear, so, with the acrylic urethane over time you will get oxidisation on the surface, and if you not remove it from time to time, the wax  you use will only cover it up and become hazy after some time.  Twice a year I use Meguires Hand Polish followed by their Yellow Carnuba, and in between Meguires NXT It is a never ending battle with Black, but, it is what it is.

[Patronus]

Swirl marks.. sounds like your may not be working it right. Each step is done similarly. Start with heavy pressure working your polish in. I like to do about 4-5 passes at each pressure. (minimum) First high pressure. The pad will compress around the arbor. Then medium and finally light pressure working to remove your product. I run about 600 rpm. Gotta work the panel from one end to the other. Any pattern you make will be in the finish, no matter how light you think you are. If you stop in the middle there will be a sign. The best you can actually hope for is broken spider-web scratches. Light scratches not connected to each other uniform on the finish. These as all imperfections may be hard to see. I cannot stress enough that great lighting is critical. After that, its a matter of hiding them. (most people would call it good) But theres actually 3-4 more steps you can do. (wax) I prefer 3m's "perfect it" line. Then I use Adam's line after that. They were supposed to have a new polish out now that gets finer and finer as you work it. This would be great except I have a social life so.. Total its about a 7 to 8 step process. Makes you strong.

also: be sure to start with any/all your pads clean and wet. I ring them out after a cold wash in a bucket on the buffer slowly at high speed.

[Silver R/T]

Meguiar's has swirl remover, it works great if you know how to use it. You want to use foam pad and low rpms. Personally I've had great results with Meguiar's products and won't be switching to anything else.

[tan top]

 bit old school now with the latest products out there  !  , but works every time  ,   single stage  black , reds , dark blues !!
use a air powered polishing mop , with a real lambs wool polishing head , 3m machine polish ,  then 3m hand glaze by hand

[Bob T]

Welcome to the joys of owning a black Charger Ghoste . I can usually count on 45 - 90 minutes getting it mint before I want to go to a cruise or show from first wash to final buff  , not a biggie tho, it looks the part. Usually have to poke it back into the garage to dry and buff it if there's a lot of sun out, otherwise killer watermarks 

I use mainly Mothers wax products and do a twice yearly hand cut with 3M Imperial hand glaze, that stuff is good

[Patronus]

Sorry Ghoste for my in depth 
sometimes I reply just to hear myself talk

[bill440rt]

You might want to consider investing in one of these orbital polishing kits, Ghoste:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/dual+orbital+machine+polish+wax+kit.do?sortby=ourPicks

The offer kits with different polishing/wax type products. They are worth it! 

[Ghoste]

In depth is good Patronus.

[1970Moparmann]

You might want to consider investing in one of these orbital polishing kits, Ghoste:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/dual+orbital+machine+polish+wax+kit.do?sortby=ourPicks

The offer kits with different polishing/wax type products. They are worth it! 

Just got a Porter Cable.  Will have to try the polishing and waxes by Griots!

[Canadian1968]

Is this a fresh painted car ?? I am a auto painter by trade . What you trying to do is pretty much voodoo magic !!
Joking aside you can make your car look near flawless but do not expect it to last more than a few days unless it is a garage queen.

Assuming this paint job is probably pretty new , maybe within the last year . Has it ever been cut and polished ?? If not , your gonna have to do this , if you are looking for that mirror flawless finish with black.

Waxes will make it good but they simply cannot cover up all the imperfections in your paint surface . Although have seen people use products to an extreme ! Most general store bought compounds are very weak and not nearly as aggressive as you probably need .  This is because you can literally destroy your paint if your not sure what you are doing. Hence the less aggressive products sold to joe-blow .

At work we use the 3m system it's is 3 stage cutting process . I don't even usually use the last stage unless it is something very specific. 3 stages AND then a good high quality wax should keep you happy for a while !!


When you start with an already finished surface the wax is simply the protector instead of "worker" you have fixed your swirl problem with the 3 stage process now you are just protecting it.  Where as before you are basically trying to hide it. It will come back and you will find yourself wanting to wax every day.

[Ghoste]

Painted a while ago, like years.

[Canadian1968]

I would say its due for a minor cut and polish then.

[Indygenerallee]

You even buff basecoat black it's F'ed without major wetsanding and polishing!!! I have left minor imperfections in clear jobs I have done before on DD's for this reason. you touch it and its a swirl, buff mark mess!!!

[Ghoste]

I'll just learn to live with it for a year and then reshoot it in silver I think.

[Fred]

I wash mine as little as possible which is easy as I only take it out when the weather's nice. And it usually is more often than not.

[Patronus]

I'll just learn to live with it for a year and then reshoot it in silver I think.

Amen!!!... And shoot it satin silver so you wont have to work it!!

[Ghoste]

No, it will be A4. 

[el dub]

I use Malco cherry flash followed by Malco Plum crazy to get rid of swirls. It is hand rubbed with a soft cloth. No more swirls. It also takes out small scratches.

[Ghoste]

Can't say as I've heard of that product?

[el dub]

It works. I've got a black truck with no swirls. But I've always put on wax by hand. But I'll get swirls of a sort going through the car wash. btw google Malco Plum Crazy.

[Silver R/T]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu50iY9RmNg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdMiE3vOKFY