News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Who has Mopar Performance bolt in subframe connectors?

Started by b5blue, December 14, 2013, 07:20:38 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

b5blue

  BOLT IN connectors.... What did you go through to install? How is the emergency brake cable run? Are they as simple to fit as it looks or am I not seeing something?
  With my floorboards freshly installed now would be the perfect time to add these, for various reasons I'm only interested in the Mopar Performance ones and no others so please no debates/suggestions about other types please.
  Who is a good vendor to buy from? I see Jeg's has them.... Just shy of 200.00. :scratchchin:

BIGBLCK11

Dodge dealers sell them in the MP catalog.  I thought they were only $165 from them, when I checked this past summer.  I have looked at a lot of threads on frame connectors.  I believe the e-brake cable is just between the floor and the tube.  One of the advantages to the bolt-in type.

Edit:  Mopar Perf. catalog  pg. 135.   P/N: P4286869

$150 at this place(not incl. shipping), never bought from them myself.

http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/dtrain.html

myk

I have them on my car but in addition to being bolted on I also had them welded in place.  There is no issue with the parking brake cable or anything else.  I don't think these sfc's are very popular here, but I like them and felt a difference...

b5blue

Quote from: BIGBLCK11 on December 14, 2013, 11:02:54 PM
Dodge dealers sell them in the MP catalog.  I thought they were only $165 from them, when I checked this past summer.  I have looked at a lot of threads on frame connectors.  I believe the e-brake cable is just between the floor and the tube.  One of the advantages to the bolt-in type.

Edit:  Mopar Perf. catalog  pg. 135.   P/N: P4286869

$150 at this place(not incl. shipping), never bought from them myself.

http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/dtrain.html
I got my T-bars and HD rear springs from there along with other stuff, they are A-1 to deal with.  :2thumbs:
MYK Thanks, cables, fuel/brake line clearance issues are all things I'm interested in knowing.

bill440rt

Hey Neal, I have them on my '69.  :yesnod:
You can try Mancini Racing, they also sell their connectors which are a direct knock-off of the MP ones, for $135:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bofrcoki1.html

I honestly don't remember if I bought theirs or the MP ones, but I did purchase mine from them. Call & speak to someone there, they are excellent to deal with.

I installed mine as an afterthought with a fully painted undercarriage. Welding was out due to damaging the paint & having to respray areas again. So, I ground just the mating surfaces down & bolted them in along with panel adhesive. I figured even if the adhesive isn't as strong as weld (it's supposed to be stronger), then at least it's stronger than just bolting them in alone.  :scratchchin:

I ran the parking brake cable above the connector, and wrapped it with a slit piece of washer fluid hose where it rubbed. I've read articles where guys have drilled holes & welded a tube inside for the cable to pass through as well.
Hope that helps!  :cheers:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

b5blue

Yes that helps Bill, no interference with brake or fuel lines then, I've bought many times from Mancini myself, I'll check on shipping cost from them.   :scratchchin:

myk

Quote from: bill440rt on December 15, 2013, 09:33:53 AM
Hey Neal, I have them on my '69.  :yesnod:
You can try Mancini Racing, they also sell their connectors which are a direct knock-off of the MP ones, for $135:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bofrcoki1.html

I honestly don't remember if I bought theirs or the MP ones, but I did purchase mine from them. Call & speak to someone there, they are excellent to deal with.

I installed mine as an afterthought with a fully painted undercarriage. Welding was out due to damaging the paint & having to respray areas again. So, I ground just the mating surfaces down & bolted them in along with panel adhesive. I figured even if the adhesive isn't as strong as weld (it's supposed to be stronger), then at least it's stronger than just bolting them in alone.  :scratchchin:

I ran the parking brake cable above the connector, and wrapped it with a slit piece of washer fluid hose where it rubbed. I've read articles where guys have drilled holes & welded a tube inside for the cable to pass through as well.
Hope that helps!  :cheers:

Stronger than weld? 

Indygenerallee

Those MP sub frame connectors are junk. best ones on the market are the UScartool sub frame connectors where the mould to the floor pan that way they are fully welded into the body... Don't ever use bolt in connectors... http://store.uscartool.com/66-70-B-Body-frame-connectors.html
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

bill440rt

Quote from: myk on December 15, 2013, 06:57:08 PM

Stronger than weld? 


In shear tests metal has torn before the adhesive let go.
Panel bonding is becoming a VERY common method in collision & automotive repair. Components on many cars today are panel bonded, and in some cases rivet-bonded (rivets and adhesive). This includes major structural components like frame rails. In many cases OE manufacturers do not approve the usage of it on certain structural components because it ADDS strength in unwanted areas on the vehicle. Google it, lots of interesting reading.
It has it's place. I wouldn't put a whole car together with the stuff, that's not what it's designed for. I used it in conjunction with bolting them in figuring it would add some strength instead of just bolting them in. Welding unfortunately wasn't an option at the time. It would have required repainting the underside, they were installed as an afterthought.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

myk

Quote from: bill440rt on December 17, 2013, 11:48:21 PM
Quote from: myk on December 15, 2013, 06:57:08 PM

Stronger than weld? 


In shear tests metal has torn before the adhesive let go.
Panel bonding is becoming a VERY common method in collision & automotive repair. Components on many cars today are panel bonded, and in some cases rivet-bonded (rivets and adhesive). This includes major structural components like frame rails. In many cases OE manufacturers do not approve the usage of it on certain structural components because it ADDS strength in unwanted areas on the vehicle. Google it, lots of interesting reading.
It has it's place. I wouldn't put a whole car together with the stuff, that's not what it's designed for. I used it in conjunction with bolting them in figuring it would add some strength instead of just bolting them in. Welding unfortunately wasn't an option at the time. It would have required repainting the underside, they were installed as an afterthought.

That is TRULY fascinating.  I'll definitely look into that; thanks for bringing me into the 21st century in that regard...

b5blue

I have patches here and there on my car done with adhesive to see if it holds up.  :2thumbs:

Dino

Quote from: myk on December 18, 2013, 05:18:31 AM
Quote from: bill440rt on December 17, 2013, 11:48:21 PM
Quote from: myk on December 15, 2013, 06:57:08 PM

Stronger than weld? 


In shear tests metal has torn before the adhesive let go.
Panel bonding is becoming a VERY common method in collision & automotive repair. Components on many cars today are panel bonded, and in some cases rivet-bonded (rivets and adhesive). This includes major structural components like frame rails. In many cases OE manufacturers do not approve the usage of it on certain structural components because it ADDS strength in unwanted areas on the vehicle. Google it, lots of interesting reading.
It has it's place. I wouldn't put a whole car together with the stuff, that's not what it's designed for. I used it in conjunction with bolting them in figuring it would add some strength instead of just bolting them in. Welding unfortunately wasn't an option at the time. It would have required repainting the underside, they were installed as an afterthought.

That is TRULY fascinating.  I'll definitely look into that; thanks for bringing me into the 21st century in that regard...

These modern adhesives are no joke.  Same thing happens with wood.  A proper glue joint is stronger than the material itself.  When you try to split a glue joint, the wood will split elsewhere.

A weld can do the same as the material around the weld becomes weaker, but it is not as drastic as a glue joint. 
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Indygenerallee

I would use epoxies on any structural part but I was always told not to use them on patches as there could be ghosting in the paint on the patch seam.
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.