is there a step by step assembly guide for rear drum brakes?

[Lord Warlock]

Had to replace the axle, in the process took the rear drum off and diassembled it.  Have a picture of the assembled brake assembly so can get an idea of where the springs attach,  but the picture isn't clear on how the parts that fit behind the brake shoes are supposed to go on, i'm assuming one of the pieces is the parking brake assembly but it looks backwards compared to the shoes i took off on the drivers side.  If anyone has a link that shows what parts go on first, then next I'd appreciate it.  I have to go to the store and see if i can find new bolts that fit the hydraulic cylinder, the new ones won't accept the same screws that came out of the old ones, they are smaller holes so will take it to the store and get two new bolts for that part, and i know that goes on first.  The rebuild kit i got did not come with the ends that stick out of the rubber boots so i'm soaking those in rust remover now to clean them off before assembly. 

Is it simpler to build the assembly off the car, or after you install the backing plate and the axle?  Was holding off installing the axle until i got the drum assembled,  thinking it may be easier once its bolted in place

[b5blue]

  No FSM? No need to assemble off the car the axle holds the backing plate for you while you work. Are your Parking Brake cables in good shape, now is the time to change if needed.
  Someone will be able to scan a pic for you if you can't find one in search. 

[green69rt]

Maybe these will help, driver side.

[Lord Warlock]

I was going to post the pictures i grabbed before sitting down and figuring it out.  But someone beat me to it, thanks.  If nothing else people will be able to use it in the future (I'll probably refer back to it when I look at the passenger side wheel). 

My picture looked like it was a mirror image of the right side, you could just barely make out the ebrake plate.  sat down on a blanket in the garage looked at the old pieces then the new, then the picture I had repeatedly,  and I eventually figured out most of it.  Probably got one or two things out of order but they got on.  Wouldn't hurt to have a step by step, I'll map one out in a few minutes, but my fingertips are a bit sore (knicks, gouges etc) and I can feel the keyboard more than normal. 

I did not reinstall the e-brake cable, I just left it hanging for now, in order to get the assembly free of the cable, I probably ruined the clip piece with silverish prongs tried prying it open but two prongs broke off in the process.  I'm not averse to getting a new cable for the emergency brake and paying a shop to do it once I get the brake system working enough to have it moved to the front yard.  Right now all of the brakes are getting updated, have the lines to the front, new calipers, rotors up front, but the new pads don't seem to want to go on the rotors, so I'll have to get inventive with those.  I'll be spending a few hours under the front end this week.

The two major holdups right now are the fuel system and the brakes, getting the rear drum brake fixed on the drivers side, let me finish the axle replacement and get the wheel back on.  Have to hook up the new right rear line tomorrow, then the rear T block to the main line then the front distribution blocks, then the front wheel lines, right front is in place but not hooked up.  Will focus on the brakes this week, until the sheetmetal arrives for the trunk floor, then i can work on that too. 

[Lord Warlock]

For those that would like a write up. Here is a quickie reassembly guide.  I'll refer to pictures above.  Disassembly should be fairly straightforward,  If you are removing an axle there are extra steps. 

Removing the axle to get the whole assembly off. 

1.  Remove the hub cover, hope you can pull it off, cutting it off caused extra work, and more expense. 
2.  Behind the wheel flange that has the wheel studs showing above, there are 5 bolts behind the flange that hold the axle on to the housing, and also hold the brake plate to the housing.  Undo the 5 nuts.  An open end 9/16 was able to undo the nuts there with moderate effort.
3.  Remove the Axle. Wiggle and pull on the axle if you want, in my case i had to use a slide hammer and a flange over the wheel studs,  mine took about 20 whacks with the slide weight to move it out of the housing. 
4.  I needed to paint the rear drum plate, so i took mine off, I also had to replace the cylinder, but you can take the brake apart with it still mounted, you want to put a nut or two back on to secure it.
5.  Remove the ebrake cable from the fork.
6.  Remove the two yellow springs at the top
7.  Remove the cable with the washer looking end from the top center post, this cable is the auto adjuster cable that makes it possible to hear a click when adjusting the wheel through the back slots.  Once the top is loose the bottom just unhooks from the metal adjuster arm.
8. Pull the metal item that fits over the post at the top, set it aside, clean it, paint it if you want, you'll need it again when putting it together.
9.  Take the metal piece that the adjuster cable hooked on to, its the adjuster itself.
10. Take the tension spring off the post on the brake shoe.
11.  Remove the black spring that connects the bottom of both shoes together
12.  Take a pair of needlenose or regular pliers and push down the spring in the middle of each shoe, by twisting the pin in the middle, the spring will pop off.  Set aside, clean, paint if needed.
13.   Remove the toothed gear at the bottom.  The pronged ends spin freely so don't lose it as one end will likely roll off somewhere, one end screws in, the other slides in.

14.  At this stage, move the shoes apart and the metal plate on the top will be freed so you can pull it out, it hooks on one Its a long flat piece of metal with prongs on both ends.  In the pics above you'll see one end has a blue spring on one end. Keep track of this spring also, (I got mine together the first time and noticed i forgot to the put that spring back on, so had to do it over again.) 
15.  The top of the ebrake plate connects to the rearmost pad with a C shaped clip, I removed this and cleaned it, didn't paint it but should have.  Its mostly hidden  but it pays to repaint things now that they are all apart.  I put all the springs, and small metal parts in a bath of CLR, and cleaned it off with a wire brush. 
16.  Remove the hydraulic chamber thing at the top, has prongs on each end, and rubber ends. My originals were so corroded that these are why I had to replace the entire assembly.  There are two bolts on the back side that you have to undo to pull this off.  I took off the pronged ends, and soaked them in the cleaner, rust remover solution, and cleaned them with a wire brush as they were pitted and corroded also.  They came out pretty clean with only a little effort. 
17.  now the entire assembly should be off the plate except the e-brake cable, someone else should explain the best way to get that off, my way may cost you a new cable...lol. 
18.  Clean entire rear plate of dust, gunk, buildup.  I painted mine with POR15 black, just to keep it from rusting in the future, let it dry overnight, then put it back together today. 

Assembly
1.  bolt hydraulic chamber thing in place, put clean prongs in the dust caps put those on, then bolt it tight from rear of plate.
2.  Attach the ebrake plate to the rear shoe, it fits thru one of the holes in the upper right, it slids from behind the shoe, so make sure you put in from the back, use the c shaped clip to hold it on, clip is on the side facing you. 
3.  Put the shoes in place centering on upper post, attach the one spring on each shoe that holds it to the backing plate. A pair of needlenose pliers helped twist the retainer pin to hold the springs in place, regular pliers would work, or strong fingers, push and twist.   The shoes need to stay in place while you twist springs back on.  Unless you're the lucky few that actually own a spring tool.  I used a screwdriver, because i'm cheap and i'm tired of extra runs to the parts store for one tool I'll almost never use. 
4.  Now you get to decide, if you are going to do both sides at once or one at a time, I did the rear pad/shoe on first since most of the connections are on this piece. 
5.  Put the metal T shaped spacer on the post at the top-you set it aside in cleaning solution. 
6.  put the washer end of the adjuster cable on the post first,
7.  Place the metal piece that the cable to the adjuster goes around, it just sits in the hole, (believe it was the 2nd down from the top) the end of the yellow spring hooks in the hole, and also holds the plate under it in place, the other end of the yellow spring goes over the top central post, thus holding the washer end of the cable in place.
8.  Place the star adjuster in place at the bottom, with prongs meeting shoes at the bottom.  This helps visualize how the adjuster fits on, it can be put back on once the adjuster is in place if it comes loose. 
9.  Place the adjuster plate in place, the long flat piece should fit on the outside of the toothed auto adjustment wheel
10.  Put the tension spring over the top of the plate, one end rests against the shoe itself, the other end tucks in just above the arm that adjusts against he wheel at the bottom. 
11.  Hook up the adjuster cable to the upper right portion of the adjuster plate, there is a hook on the back side of the end that fits into the center of the hole on the arm, and puts tension on the adjuster plate holding it in place also. 
12.  Next is to start on the front side of the brake shoe, if its not in place, put it in place, make sure the prongs in the cylinder at the top fit in the slot of the shoes,
13.  Put the metal plate that crosses from front shoe to back shoe, The piece with the blue spring on it above.  Put the blue spring on, fit prongs on either side of the left shoe, press the pads together to make it stand in place.  Make sure front shoe prongs are set on the adjustment wheel at bottom  also.   
14.  hook black spring at bottom that holds the two shoes together at the bottom.  I found it easier to put the short end in the front shoe, and the longer L shaped end in the back piece near adjuster.
15.  Put yellow spring at top left on, one end on post, other in end in #2 hole.
16.  Stand back and look at drum brake, it should be together  with everything holding it together.  Install it back on the axle housing if you took it off. 
17.  Hook up e-brake cable (may want to do this after you get the rear shoe on, and before the front is started.
18.  You may want to turn the adjuster wheel at the bottom a few times to tighten things up if needed.
19.  Test fit the hub cover on  occasionally to make sure the shoes aren't too tight to the hub cover. I could feel that it was just barely going on, so pulled it off, put the assembly back on the differential end, then installed the axle, and bolted the 5 nuts back on the axle to hold it in place.  Greased the bearing before sliding it in all the way.
20.  Installed the hub cover,  then hooked up the brake line to back of hydraulic chamber, cracked the bleeder valve loose as I'll have to bleed them once i get the others done. 
21.  Put the wheel and tire back on the car, its still jacked up, but at least now the wheel has 5 studs to hold it on instead of 2.  It'll stay jacked up until i get the trunk floor done, but thats the week after xmas when i plan on working on that part.  Still waiting for the panels to arrive. 

[Lord Warlock]

Before:

After:

All buttoned up, meant to take a picture of the axle hanging out, but can do that on the other side, if i do the other side...

Will have to take a picture of the side, now that i have the room to see both wheels, but have to lower it first, and that comes after the trunk floor.

[green69rt]

If you are replacing axel bearings (I see the axels are out in your pics) then you may need a bearing retainer/adjuster.  The old ones are pretty fragile.   These were last made in the 70's.  I found a NOS one on ebay for $20.  If you get desperate Dr Diff make billet ones for $130 or more .

[Lord Warlock]

I got new axles from Dr Diff, they had the bearing retainer/adjuster already in place.  Picture makes me wish i'd spent a little extra time cleaning the inside of the bearing sleeve, looks rusty in the picture, didn't look rusty while looking at it before, flash on camera really made it show up.  Actually have all 5 studs to mount a wheel on now had gotten down to 2 before i finally replaced the hub/axle/brake.  It does make me want to put off working on the other side if i can, hopefully I can get the brake hub cover off on the other side without ruining anything, but at least i have the extra axle, and drum brake rebuild kit ready to go when i do get around to it.  We'll see what happens in the next couple weeks, plan on making the next two weeks count in getting the brakes updated and connected. 

[fy469rtse]

Mitch , nice work on your rear end , looks great  ,