70 petty/corporate blue

[pettybird]

Well, I'll tell you what:  I'll be that annoying guy all day long. 

I got the samples from Rick, and I compared them to a part of the car that's never seen sunlight, etc...the trunk striker.  He sent two samples:  One is a by-the-book TB3, and the other was supposedly mixed to match his car.  The TB3 is, in my hands, way off.  It's a true(r) blue, where the sample from his car and my striker are both 'yellower.'  my part is a touch yellower-er yet, but we're talking degrees of shade rather than colors. 

I tried to photograph the pieces, but digital cameras do a GREAT job of artificially evening out colors.  I have my DSLR here, and I could shoot in RAW, but I don't know if that would help, either.  Rainbow or oddics, if you want me to mail 'em on I can do that, and I can mail the striker, too.  From what I see there's no way I'd be happy with the TB3 sample I have.  It would also be interesting to see how the TB3 spray out compares to the vintage TB3 touch up paint.

Also, Rick:  How is that sample paint against your original parts?  Meaning, does the custom color EXACTLY match your car?

[Ghoste]

For my own part, I meant the guy who can look at a car with no other reference and say its off.  If you put each of those samples in a room by itself and then look at them that way, can you go somewhere and relate which room had which shade?

[pettybird]

For my own part, I meant the guy who can look at a car with no other reference and say its off.  If you put each of those samples in a room by itself and then look at them that way, can you go somewhere and relate which room had which shade?

the way these colors are, I think I can. 

Also, I'm a bit of a prima donna, so I'll SAY I can anyway

[69_500]

Doug, can you adjust the white balance on your camera? I do it on mine all the time when I am photographing rare colors on cars. And when you bring it up on a computer it is a dead match to what you actually saw.

[odcics2]

Well, I'll tell you what:  I'll be that annoying guy all day long. 

I got the samples from Rick, and I compared them to a part of the car that's never seen sunlight, etc...the trunk striker.  He sent two samples:  One is a by-the-book TB3, and the other was supposedly mixed to match his car.  The TB3 is, in my hands, way off.  It's a true(r) blue, where the sample from his car and my striker are both 'yellower.'  my part is a touch yellower-er yet, but we're talking degrees of shade rather than colors. 

I tried to photograph the pieces, but digital cameras do a GREAT job of artificially evening out colors.  I have my DSLR here, and I could shoot in RAW, but I don't know if that would help, either.  Rainbow or oddics, if you want me to mail 'em on I can do that, and I can mail the striker, too.  From what I see there's no way I'd be happy with the TB3 sample I have.  It would also be interesting to see how the TB3 spray out compares to the vintage TB3 touch up paint.

Also, Rick:  How is that sample paint against your original parts?  Meaning, does the custom color EXACTLY match your car?

PM sent!

[Ghoste]

For my own part, I meant the guy who can look at a car with no other reference and say its off.  If you put each of those samples in a room by itself and then look at them that way, can you go somewhere and relate which room had which shade?

the way these colors are, I think I can. 

Also, I'm a bit of a prima donna, so I'll SAY I can anyway

Fair enough. 

[pettybird]

Doug, can you adjust the white balance on your camera? I do it on mine all the time when I am photographing rare colors on cars. And when you bring it up on a computer it is a dead match to what you actually saw.

you're WAY more of a camera guy than I am...would that help differentiate the SHADES of blue next to each other? 

[rainbow4jd]

Heres a pic of one of my fender scoops. I think being color that's underneath and all the way to the front would make the color pretty close and not sun faded. I took the pic In the house under a lamp. So I don't think the color in the pic is showing the true color here. But you get the idea.  r

Here's my scoop - (from a color match batch) - its hard to tell from these kinds of photos - but it looks dang close to that underside picture.

[rainbow4jd]

Heres a pic of one of my fender scoops. I think being color that's underneath and all the way to the front would make the color pretty close and not sun faded. I took the pic In the house under a lamp. So I don't think the color in the pic is showing the true color here. But you get the idea.  r

Here's my scoop - (from a color match batch) - its hard to tell from these kinds of photos - but it looks dang close to that underside picture.

And reposting DoubleDlovers picture to compare

[69_500]

Doug, can you adjust the white balance on your camera? I do it on mine all the time when I am photographing rare colors on cars. And when you bring it up on a computer it is a dead match to what you actually saw.

you're WAY more of a camera guy than I am...would that help differentiate the SHADES of blue next to each other? 

Doug sorry missed this weeks ago, but yes if you adjust the white balance to a true white and photograph things it's easy to differentiate the shades of colors. As long as both objects were photographed with the white balance being set properly.

[rainbow4jd]

This is the same information I got.  >> PPG Brand Code 2423 :  dt8221, ay69tb3, tar1b3, ay1tb3  "corporation blue"

I talked to a paint guy at PPG in Pittsburgh (my son did an internship at PPG and is a chemical engineer himself) and the guy said (paraphrased)...

"paint has two elements to it - visibility factor and chemical mix factor - you can routinely find different mix factors that are indistinguishable to the naked eye from a visibility standpoint - and we have naked eye simulators to test it.    The mixes change more often than you think due to cost factors for tints OR due to changes in painting technology.   We now may be able to add an additive to keep colors from fading, where in the past we had to do a paint mix to accomplish the same thing.      Also old paint oxidizes, so the person who has an unrestored car doesn't have accurate paint.  You would need to find a sealed sample of actual paint to do a true color match.  On a car, you need a surface that has never been exposed to sunlight and kept in a low humidity/very dry area with no airflow - maybe an original pre-painted boxed part.  Otherwide, don't sweat the mix - you can't tell the difference, and the guy who says he can is probably just annoying."

As a follow up to my own post - my color match did NOT come out exactly as the paint guide.   Everything was the same - but it had less of the bright blue 1675 parts versus the 1926 parts.   You can see the picture on my fender scoop above (and the comparison with the original by DoubleDlover).