Replace? reskin? or?

[mAdMoPaR]

Pretty solid and rust free but after stripping and blasting the body alot of bad bodywork was uncovered along with dents and dings, pass side being the worst. I have a mig and a few basic hammers and dollies along with a stud welder.

[Charger-Bodie]

Id get a door(or skin), but I would fix the 1/4 if thats an original panel.

[Dino]

Fix it.  Especially the quarter.  Way less work to fix than to replace and they are fun to beat on!

The door I would replace BUT you have nothing to lose.  The door indents make the skin real tight from the midpoint forward which is a bonus.  I would start at the front of the door and bit by bit work the metal as you go towards the rear.  This is so you know what part of the metal needs to go up and what needs to go down.  If this sounds confusing, go try it out and you'll see what I mean.

[tan top]

what the other guys say      source a nother door  or skin 

[Ghoste]

Try fixing first.

[fy469rtse]

Yep try fixing it first, i would get a skin for the door, but would try and fix the quarter panel , looks rust free , wish i had some earlier photo's to show you how bad my qtrs were dinged up , but got there in the end and needed just a little help from a professional to finish completely.
mine was hit from behind and after pulling the rear out to specs, both panels each side were creased over wheel arches, but got them out and straight, have a go and see what happens

[mAdMoPaR]

Really!? I thought they where gone for sure. They just look to far gone to fix to me but then again I am not a body guy. As far as door skins go how easy is it to replace? I see amd pieces all over the web , are they the only source? Prices on the internet seem to be a bit high for a skin and shipping cost to California being not much better.

[hemi-hampton]

It could all be fixed but depends on if you like bondo or not, Some people don't want any Bondo on there cars. Not sure how they fit but I'd probably buy the Complete door shell from AMD if they sell them & bump the 1/4. Can't believe somebody bondo'd over all those high spots on outer edges of dents  If you pull it out with stud gun make sure as your still pulling outwards you nock those high spots down.   LEON.

[JB400]

I'd practice on the door first, then the quarter if your new at metal shaping.  You can always replace the door if you screw it up.

[cudaken]

Mad, main thing I wounder about is why the door is dropped down so far? Can the door be adjusted at all so the top of the door is closer to the quarter panel top? It may be not as bad as it looks. One thing I will tell you, Charger doors are a bitch to get right! Give it a try anyway, if you cannot fix it you have to replaces it anyway so what the heck? 

On the quarter, I wish mine was that good when I started!  Only real hard part I see is getting the center body line crisp again.

Here is link to a old post I did 9 years ago? Heck, my beard did not have any white in it! 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4803.0.html

If you dig though it I think you find some helpful tips.

Cuda Ken

[mAdMoPaR]

I took the door off to strip and clean it and didn't hang it back on right. 

[500Jon]

Hi MM,

Never ever replace a quarter skin unless it the last resort.
Even the best repops are only just OK!
Then there's the hours of work fitting it, trust me I've done a few.
Plenty of good doors around, just try and find one at a fair price.
Always use original metal whenever possible.
It looks bad at the start but careful caressment of the metal will be rewarding!!!
Do some of the bad areas first, have a break, then do some more another day.
It will never be perfect but hey it will be original Mopar tin.

Happy tapping 500Jon

[bill440rt]

The quarter looks like it could be worked by a good bodyman. The holes can be welded up, and there is good access to the backside of the panel.

Definitely consider skinning the door. It looks pretty boogered up especially around the handle mount area, which flexes a lot and is likely to crack again down the road.

[mAdMoPaR]

Thank you gents! 
I guess I'll start with the quarter panel while keeping an eye out for a door/ door skin.

[Skull-1]

Too far gone to fix?   No way.  Take a look at how bad mine was....  


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html


We decided to keep the originals because repro skins are thinner.  So I was told. 

[mAdMoPaR]

Been working the quarter last few days, welded up the some holes and cut out a small section that was just to mangled.  Will post pics. shortly

[tsmithae]

 

[charger_fan_4ever]

Like the others said.

The AMD full quarters need bondo full length cause they are wavy and lines are not crisp.

[mAdMoPaR]

New skin arrived and started to remove the old one. Noticed the door skin is just crimped and spot welded, no  bonding adhesive at all just some nasty smelling filler of some sort along the seam. Should I just do the same when installing the new skin? Also noticed the inside of old skin has a a layer of what looks like undercoating.

[Dino]

Panel adhesive is relatively new and was not available in the dinosaur age.  You could use it if you wanted to though.  The gunk is plain paintable panel seam sealer.

No matter what procedure you follow, both will work.

The undercoating acts as a sound deadener so you can use a dynamat or similar in its place as well.

[mAdMoPaR]

Ok so just regular old undercoating or one specific for doors? I've looked into adhesives (not easy to find locally) any particular one/brand I should use?

[Dino]

Any panel bonding adhesive, like 3M's, will work.  The inner coating can be either a self stick deadening mat or a spray.  Just look at the sound deadening properties of the spray.  Some have high heat resistance while others have higher sound deadening properties.  Most have both.  You can build up the layers as well and you don't have to cover the entire door, just the bulk of it.  I personally like a nice big sheet of sound deadening mat in my doors.  It makes for a nice solid thump when you close the door.

[mAdMoPaR]

 Thanks Dino!   Found a 3m adhesive and applicator kit on ebay, not Cheap! But was cheaper than anywhere else. Now Im welding these tabs on to the new skin. Although I can't remember what attaches to this one VVV Want to test fit what ever it is before welding it on.