What is it worth: My '68 Charger

[Shankster]

Hello everyone,

Here is my '68 Charger.  I bought it back around 1988 and it was my main ride until 1994 when I bought a Dakota, parked the Charger at my mother's house, and there it has sat for almost 20 years.   I always intended on getting it running again but I never got around to it and now my mother is moving and I either have to find a storage spot or sell it.

It's all original except for the wheels, the air shocks I put in the back to accommodate the 265's, and the exhaust pipes that I had repaired when the original one cracked at the bend over the rear axle and I had the shop run duals out the back.  It has the original 383 2bl, it's white with red interior, came with power windows, AC, and had the black vinyl top but it was cracking and peeling over time so I pulled it off.

Right now, I can't get the hood open.  The first release springs back but the latch doesn't seem to be disengaging so I'm looking into fixing that so I can get pictures of the engine.  If anyone knows a trick to that, let me know.

[Shankster]

More pictures:

[Shankster]

and a couple more:

[chargerboy69]

Let me say. . very cool car, love the color combination, it is fantastic.

As far as value. . . don't know. Glad I could help.

[cdr]

4 to 7 depending on floors & frame rails.

[squeakfinder]

    When you get the hood open for pic's, would you get some of the bare trunk floor?  

[Fitz73Chrgr]

4 to 7 depending on floors & frame rails.

I was going to say ~$5k.  That rear window rust is a big deal.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

4 to 7 depending on floors & frame rails.

I'd go as high as $65.00 even with bad frame rails.

[F8-4life]

If you have any remaining interest or sentimental value please consider keeping it.
You likely won't have another and that is one great charger you have currently.
Worth from 5-7k depending on how much rust.

[bull]

Minimum value for a complete 68 in this condition should be around $4k - $5k. But that's if the aforementioned frame rails are in decent shape. The cancer I see would make me nervous about the stuff I can't see.

Too bad your mom has to move to get you going on this. Seriously though, is there no way you can store it and work on it?

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

I paid $1,400 for a better 1968, w/ less rust. But those were 1990 dollars 

In 2013 dollars, I'd say 4-5k, tops

[Homerr]

The Good:
original, unmolested condition
nice color combo
big-block car
console
power windows
looks to be a complete red interior

The Bad:
non-R/T
will the motor turn?

The Ugly:
rear window rot means the trunk, lower quarters, maybe frame rails and rear valence too...are all shot (so a typical Charger)


I'll say if the motor turns, i.e. turns by hand and is not seized, then it's $6k as it sits.  

I'll also guess it's going to take $20-25k of mostly 'do-it-yourself' type work; or $30-40k of 'you disassemble, send out all bodywork/paint to a shop, and you reassemble'; or $60-100k of just dropping it off at a shop and telling them you want it to look like it just rolled off the assembly line.


If you are selling - please sell it to someone looking for a project that will do the work instead of a flipper or someone that is going to spray it orange.    This is a nice candidate for a full restoration, there is someone out there that will love it and take care of it if you don't have the time/inclination/funds.    

[hatersaurusrex]

I'll open the robes a bit and tell you - I bought a car in about the same shape as yours overall and I gave 8+K for it after a LOT of searching.  Mine was a complete 383 car with that ran and drove (though not well), and the condition was better in some places and worse than others than yours.

I know I overpaid, but the car I bought was 30 minutes from the person doing the resto (my brother) and at the time I lived 10 hours away so I saved myself a ton of money finding a car elsewhere and dragging it back all the way to TN.  It was a 60 dollar tow instead of a round trip drive/airfare and trailering it or shipping somewhere so I was happy with my choice in the end, and I got to actually start the project instead of spending another 5 years looking.

I'd agree with the consensus here - that to a local buyer - a complete unmolested XP big block car is worth probably 2-3K less than what I paid.   I had a pretty unique situation, as most people don't    Either way if I were selling it, I'd ask somewhere in the neighborhood of 2-3K more than what you want out of it and make someone feel like they got a deal.  Over 10K for that car will keep most people away thinking you're unrealistic, and under 5K you'll have some assburglar trying to talk you into 2500 CASH IN YOUR FACE RIGHT NOW LOOK I GOT ME SOME CASH MONEY for it.

[1974dodgecharger]

God I love it man.....I wish to buy it If I had spare 5k around.

[70 sublime]

Where is the car located now ??
Has it ever been painted ?

To open the hood did you try to push down on it in the center at the front when you pulled the release ?

[wingcar]

Asking the question: "What's it worth", is like asking "Should I get married"... There are many view points and opinions, but only you can decide what its worth to you.  The big question is what do YOU want to do?  Would you like to just see the car go away and have cash in your pocket, or would you like to tackle doing a restoration and keeping it.  Just remember that a restoration WILL ALWAYS end up costing you more than you planned.  But, having said that...compared to some of the outright rusted junk that has been posted on this site....yours "looks" to be in very good condition...hopefully the bottom of the car is ok.  Do your homework and look at what other advertized Chargers in the same condition are selling for...they are not cheap as everyone seems to want a second generation Charger. 
Bottomline, any car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it...................

[Dave27]

Just curious if the car was similar condition, rust free, R/T, 440,not running,but rebuilt engine, what would it be worth

[Dino]

I guess the $5K mark is not too far off.  Personally I don't like the bright interiors so I would not pay extra for it.  It'll need a lot of work though, a whole lot.

So what's the deal with the hood?  The release pull may be gone or just dropped out of the hole in the mechanism.  With a flash light you should be able to see the hole through the hood opening or grille where the release goes.  Get a wire hanger and bend it to fit in there, give it a pull and it should pop open.  With some gymnastics you can also get there from the bottom.  Wear goggles and keep your mouth closed...

[Troy]

Having sold several projects...

I'd say most of these estimates are high. I sold a non running 383 4bbl car with lots of rust in the rear - but not in the rails - for $900. Another of my cars was a lot nicer and barely got over $2k. Now, yours looks fairly complete. If the original interior can be salvaged (hard to match the red) then it could considerably increase the value. An unbroken grill is a HUGE bonus. If the rails are solid AND it runs you'll be in much better shape. It will take some work on your part to make it at least a roller - preferably a runner. The color combo is cool but it's not really going to help or hurt the value. It may help for the right person - but then you've got to find just that right person AND they have to be in the market AND they have to have money.

I like it! However, I wouldn't pay $5k. It looks reasonably solid in the pictures so if you can prove the rear half isn't completely rusted out I'd bump my estimate up. I have other Chargers though. You'd probably have better luck with someone who is looking but hasn't been able to buy yet.

Troy

[Tilar]

Just something about a white car that I like, and that one has a couple nice options. If you were close by and I had the money I might consider doing something with it.

[tan top]

looks good    , is that the original selling dealer licence plate frame ? 

[Shankster]

Thanks for the input, everyone!  I just got a call from a place that will let me store it there so that's sweet relief to me.

The car is located in Los Angeles County close to Ventura County line.  I'll get pictures of the bare trunk once I relocate it and I'll try the suggestions for the hood latch.  It has the original paint and, yes, I believe that is the original selling dealer license plate.  It says "Los Angeles" and "Wil-Mar Dodge" on it.  The guy I bought it from claimed he bought it from the original owner and I don't think he kept it long before selling it to me.

Funny story about how I got it: My '73 Dodge Tradesman 200 van had recently given up the ghost so I needed a new vehicle.  My friend had a forest green '68 Charger that I really dug and one day we're cruising down the 101 and this guy in a white '68 Charger pulls up along side of us and says "You guys know anyone who'd want to buy this Charger?" and I said "Yeah, me!".  So we pulled over and exchanged information and I eventually bought the car.  The '68 Charger has always been my favorite muscle car and I don't think any other make/model from that era looks nearly as badass and cool.

[70 sublime]

Great to hear you found a place to keep it
Sounds like a car with some memories that you could never get back if you sold it
Keep it till you can get it back on the road

[paironines]

I think it would be sold the first day at 5k. So probably worth 7k if rails are good.

[1974dodgecharger]

Put me on a payment plan please....

[Charger-Bodie]

Its an early 68 too.

[1974dodgecharger]

OP never came back to post more pics because we are picture fienes 

[500Jon]

Hi Shankster,

Good color combo for a Charger, bad color combo to sell methinks.
But when it comes to high dollar cars all Chargers are up there!
I've been offered nearly bare Charger shells in LA for $5K.
So any less than that is a steal.
I can see this baby going to Europe, along with hundreds of others LoL

Good luck with your fine Mopar 500Jon

[hydroforce2]

i think it's only worth what someone will give you for it.. even tho it's worth a gazzilion dollars to you

[Hard Charger]

Whats up with the steering wheel center?  That's not Charger issue.

[Charger-Bodie]

Whats up with the steering wheel center?  That's not Charger issue.

One of the early 68 quirks.

[Hard Charger]

My 68 is a early build, September I think.

I have the standard looking cap.

[HeavyFuel]

I hate to look at cars like this....neat color combo, decent options.......but rotted.   

Doesn't really matter WHAT color any of it is now...90% of it will have to be replaced.   


Two words:   indoor storage.           

[Charger-Bodie]

My 68 is a early build, September I think.

I have the standard looking cap.

The fratzog style cap isnt seen on many just the very first 68s. I had a reall early 68 too and it too had the standard paded one, but ive seen probably half a dozen like this car has. All of those were really early builds.

[myk]

I hate to look at cars like this....neat color combo, decent options.......but rotted.   

Doesn't really matter WHAT color any of it is now...90% of it will have to be replaced.   


Two words:   indoor storage.           

Yeah.  I left mine outside for a year and didn't touch it ONCE; one of the biggest regrets of my life, and one of the hardest roads to travel to get it back...

[Ghoste]

My 68 is a early build, September I think.

I have the standard looking cap.

The fratzog style cap isnt seen on many just the very first 68s. I had a reall early 68 too and it too had the standard paded one, but ive seen probably half a dozen like this car has. All of those were really early builds.

Almost like a natural evolution from the 67 style.

[Shankster]

I'm still planning on posting more pictures. This past weekend was the big push to get my mother moved.

Could someone please post a pic of what the hood latch looks like so that I can get an idea as to where I can poke and prod to get that thing triggered? I'd really appreciate it!

[fy469rtse]

It won't make it to Europe if us Aussies have anything to do with it first lol
We love chargers down here

[500Jon]

68-69 Chargers are iconic!
Fortunately mother Mopar made plenty.
Not too many got destroyed for drag-racing like other models.
Film studios in Californication must have seen off about 400 or so.
Sad thing was they was all rust free bodyshells that are the most sort after now.

A 68 383 bodyshell was restored at JPC Autobody UK, from a rusty crashed wreck!
Think the (incomplete) car was bought on the Bay for £7k and cost £20k to put it right.(shell only no paint)
Fully jig aligned and all new panels were fitted onto it, to make as new a Bodyshell as currently possible.

Once AMD get all the panel needed, then we will have factory style original bodyshells available again.
How much and who would actually but one is anther matter all together???

What you pay for a project Charger at the beginning, becomes almost irrelevant at the end

Was at a Cali-car show a few years back, there was an all original 71 Hemi Charger there.
Guess what a well known restorer quoted to restore it???
If I told you then you would faint!!!
We all want to restore our lovely Mopars for five figure amounts, but six thats eyewatering!

Food for thought 500J

[472 R/T SE]

I think it would be sold the first day at 5k. So probably worth 7k if rails are good.

That's what I was thinking.  If you're gonna peddle it, I'd make sure to price it high enough to give you wiggle room.

Yeah, the rear window has rust.  They started rusting there sitting at the factory.  The thing about the rust is it needs water.  We're talking California here, if it's been undercoated there's no way that car got enough water to destroy the rear rails.  Heck, every time there's a drought, they want to build a water pipeline from up here to down there which seems to happen at the end of every summer.

I happen to love the color combo.   

[myk]

Eh, California is wet enough in the air to feed rust.  Outside storage=death to any car, especially older ones that "rusted while they were sitting in the factory."

[Dino]

I'm still planning on posting more pictures. This past weekend was the big push to get my mother moved.

Could someone please post a pic of what the hood latch looks like so that I can get an idea as to where I can poke and prod to get that thing triggered? I'd really appreciate it!

As long as you can get something like a coat hanger behind the lever or through that hole, you should be able to pull it toward you and open the hood.

If the handle is still there but disconnected from the hook, it means the clip came off but you can usually get the lever back in place to open it with some wiggling.

[472 R/T SE]

I don't know about '68 but in '70 when you eliminate the pop up spring the hood just stays closed.

It's sort of a theft deterrent.  Thief reaches in and pops the hood handle & the hood does nothing.  I even, I mean I hear it even confuses the Mopar die hard folk.  Plus if you have new paint, no more worries.

[Shankster]

Dino, thanks for the screenshots. The latch that I was referring to is the first one; the one that holds the hood firm when closed and is released by sliding the little spring lever to the side. When I slide that lever, it doesn't release the hood to pop up and get to that handle.

[myk]

I don't know about '68 but in '70 when you eliminate the pop up spring the hood just stays closed.

It's sort of a theft deterrent.  Thief reaches in and pops the hood handle & the hood does nothing.  I even, I mean I hear it even confuses the Mopar die hard folk.  Plus if you have new paint, no more worries.

One reason why I never replaced mine...

[Dino]

Dino, thanks for the screenshots. The latch that I was referring to is the first one; the one that holds the hood firm when closed and is released by sliding the little spring lever to the side. When I slide that lever, it doesn't release the hood to pop up and get to that handle.

Ah I misunderstood.  My bad

That lever connects a short rod to the latch so a few things could have gone wrong here.  The good news is that you can release it real quick.  If you have a front license plate you may need to remove it.  Sit in front of the grille and through the middle.  You should see a short rod from the center running towards the lever.  Seeing yours doesn't work it's either gone or loose.  Doesn't matter.  The latch is right in the middle of the top grille support frame so stick your hand in the big hole in the valance behind the license plate and reach up to find the latch.  There's a small but thick metal plate on the back of the latch so grab it and turn it clockwise facing it to release the hood.  If it's stuck you can grab the plate with big pliers or you can even soak the latch in pb blaster, just try not to spray yourself with that stuff.   

I always planned on removing the lever and installing a cable release so nobody can open my hood, but I'll have to do some more because this is all it takes to open it.