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Decision time...383 vs 440

Started by Dreamcar, December 07, 2013, 08:42:20 AM

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Dreamcar

You guys are not making this easy!
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

polywideblock

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on December 07, 2013, 03:55:11 PM
I favor the 383.  Why?   You have it.  If you buy the 440, you're out $400 from your pocket.  Plus, you'd still be tripping over the 383 till you do something with it.  You're asking for 400 hp.  An aftermarket intake, 4bbl carb, headers, and a cam change will give you the 400 ponies and still keep it streetable.  A port match on the heads and intake wouldn't hurt anything either and can be done at home.


like stroker said I think you can get a package from edelbrock with everything to replace top end with or without heads that give an honest 400 + hp  from a 383 

but i'v got a 440 and love it    :shruggy:


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

Mopar Nut

"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Dreamcar

It's a dismantled 76 block. I don't know what it's out of though. Either way it need a rebuild.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

A383Wing

The 383 is often under-rated engine. It's a big block in a small block body. The 383 will rev higher & faster than a 440 will....

I say build the 383

XS29LA47V21

If it is an original 383 car I would keep it that, no shame there, money does not grow on trees they say.  The one "good running" 383 I had some years back was twice the motor a couple stock 440s.....  I vote 383.

XH29N0G

Quote from: Dreamcar on December 07, 2013, 04:00:18 PM
You guys are not making this easy!

It isn't.  A well built 383 will make the car move well.  (look through http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,78094.0.html).  I imagine a 440 will make it move better.  I ultimately went the way some have suggested here by changing the stroke on a 383.  I didn't opt for 4.15 (490 cc), but instead went for 3.91 (451 cc).  The engine is very different from what it was and the car drives very differently.  

Only you know your budget.  I would look at this decision in terms of that.  I like the 383 (that is what the N is in my sign in name).  With the 383 I switched to steep gears and an overdrive and really liked it.  The switch to the present configuration was something I decided I wanted to do to see what more torque would do.  Right now it is too much for my tires; so I am working on solving that and the other issues that come with it.

From your original post, I think a 383 can meet your HP goals, a 440 will too, but with more torque.  More power and torque and HP can be seductive, but it also will reach a point where you cannot use it and need to do other things (the tires just spin).  This tells about my present state.  There are others on here - maybe you as well - who have much more experience with high and higher power engines.  
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Dreamcar

I think what attracted me to having a 440 built is that I can still find them, they offer more hp in stock form so I don't have to buy speed parts, and as mentioned the extra torque for that feeling in the seat when you get going. But, the car was originally a 383 car and like I said, I have one in my garage. So not an easy decision, but I'm leaning towards getting that 440 rebuilt to 69 specs and just enjoying what that has to offer. Plus without needing speed parts, the cost is manageable.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

cdr

so for a couple of 100.00 difference ,you would go with a cast crank, stock rod 440. :shruggy:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

1974dodgecharger

I would say 440!

I have a 383 in my car now, but It was only done because it was originally a 383 so I found a block from the 68 year and rebuilt it with some little things like headers, heads, KB pistons, etc. Though not  as much torque as the 440, but in the end it costs the same to build the 383 I have now vs the 440. 

LIke cooter said the bigger one will always win 440 with turbo or 383 with turbo, 440 with blower or 383 with blower, GO BIG OR GO HOME as they say........

Cooter

Only thing bothers me bout the 440 Chrysler is it's stock stroke. Same as a damn SMALL BLOCK 400 Chevy.
Why the hell Mopar didn't go with the 4" crank like Chevy did with the 454, I don't know.

The 383 was a good engine, but like the 'Boss ' 302, it'll rev to the moon, but torque is lacking.
The only engine that had it worse was the 350 GC engine. Uber small valves and Briggs and Stratton bore.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

c00nhunterjoe

My 383 made enough torque to bust the windshield and rip the driver door striker off the pillar on slicks..... I'm just sayin....  :2thumbs:

1974dodgecharger

Mine only moves my rear view mirror lol  :icon_smile_big:

A383Wing

if car was originally a 383 car, then switching to a 440 will mean a couple more changes as well

Throttle cable, maybe brakes all around, possible torsion bars, sway bar was bigger on 440 cars, and maybe fuel lines...383 had 5/16" lines, 440's had 3/8" lines...now with that being said, I'm still running 5/16" fuel lines on my 383 dual quad car

Bryan

Dreamcar

Quote from: A383Wing on December 07, 2013, 09:53:03 PM
if car was originally a 383 car, then switching to a 440 will mean a couple more changes as well

Throttle cable, maybe brakes all around, possible torsion bars, sway bar was bigger on 440 cars, and maybe fuel lines...383 had 5/16" lines, 440's had 3/8" lines...nut with that being said, I'm still running 5/16" fuel lines on my 383 dual quad car


Bryan


That's good info, but the car already needs new fuel lines and my plan was a disc brake upgrade. the suspension is also being completely replaced.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Challenger340

So, lets really make this a difficult decision for you...OK ?
How does a 430HP / 444 Ft/Lbs Torque 383 sound..... on 91 Octane with Stock Iron Heads...with a relatively "smooth" Idle  ?

From reading the posts in this thread, it would seem one of the biggest knocks on the 383 is the Torque ?
Agreed,
the wee'83 needs a bit more run at the load out of the hole compared to big brother the 440, and while it's true there is no "replacement for displacement",
here is something to chew on ?
It all depends on what you want, or "how much"......is "enough".

The following Dyno Sheet is from a .030" over 1970 Block 383 we did for a guy a couple of years back.
STOCK "Jobber" Rebuilder Engine Kit, including Cast Pistons, Cast Rings.
We added(if I remember correctly)
* ARP Rod Bolts
* 274H CompCams Hydraulic Flat tappet Cam
* Adjustable Rocker Arms & Pushrods
* Torker Intake
* 750 Holley Carb

labor Included;
* Bowl Port & Gasket Match the Iron Heads(stock 2.08" & 1.74" Valves)
* Some Block Milling to bring the low-pop stock Cast Pistons a bit closer to the deck, still 9.2:1 C.R.
* usually other labor like Bore & Hone W/Torque Plate, Resize the Rods, yada, yada, Cam Brgs etc.
* Rebuild the Heads properly, Good Guides, Good Angles, Back-cut, etc.

That's it....That's all, and although it was a bit more labor $ Cost......It was still a CHEAPO Engine !

THIS particular wee-83, can give "Big Brother" 440 some trouble at stoplights :2thumbs:
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Dreamcar

Quote from: Challenger340 on December 07, 2013, 11:49:07 PM
So, lets really make this a difficult decision for you...OK ?
How does a 430HP / 444 Ft/Lbs Torque 383 sound..... on 91 Octane with Stock Iron Heads...with a relatively "smooth" Idle  ?

From reading the posts in this thread, it would seem one of the biggest knocks on the 383 is the Torque ?
Agreed,
the wee'83 needs a bit more run at the load out of the hole compared to big brother the 440, and while it's true there is no "replacement for displacement",
here is something to chew on ?
It all depends on what you want, or "how much"......is "enough".

The following Dyno Sheet is from a .030" over 1970 Block 383 we did for a guy a couple of years back.
STOCK "Jobber" Rebuilder Engine Kit, including Cast Pistons, Cast Rings.
We added(if I remember correctly)
* ARP Rod Bolts
* 274H CompCams Hydraulic Flat tappet Cam
* Adjustable Rocker Arms & Pushrods
* Torker Intake
* 750 Holley Carb

labor Included;
* Bowl Port & Gasket Match the Iron Heads(stock 2.08" & 1.74" Valves)
* Some Block Milling to bring the low-pop stock Cast Pistons a bit closer to the deck, still 9.2:1 C.R.
* usually other labor like Bore & Hone W/Torque Plate, Resize the Rods, yada, yada, Cam Brgs etc.
* Rebuild the Heads properly, Good Guides, Good Angles, Back-cut, etc.

That's it....That's all, and although it was a bit more labor $ Cost......It was still a CHEAPO Engine !

THIS particular wee-83, can give "Big Brother" 440 some trouble at stoplights :2thumbs:



Wow...those are nice numbers :brickwall:  What was the cost of that build?
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

c00nhunterjoe

I love the torque band throughout the range.

70 sublime

383 vs 440

I think you will find when you get the car going you will be driving it every where for any excuse :)

That means most of the times you will have the kids in the car
going to soccer practise
birthday parties
first hockey practise of the season
ect ect ect

With that said and you trying to choose a colour for inside and out side of car leaning towards what it came with

I think the best choice would be to build the 383 up the best it can be and still run on regular gas (yes the cheap stuff but remember you are driving it every where and will have to keep filling the tank)
You will have a car that is easy to drive and start reliably every time
You will have the biggest grin on your face just seeing the car keys knowing you have a Charger

When anybody asks what motor you can say with pride it has a stock 383 in it because that is what it was born with

You can always build a 440 up and put it in the car later in life then you will be able to know for your self what the differance really is between the two
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Dreamcar

This has been a very interesting topic....if only I was able to make a clear choice :brickwall:
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Homerr

Sayings like "there's no substitute for cubic inches" come about for a reason.

Other than a numbers matching situation I don't see why anyone would put money in to a 383 instead of a 440.  'Charger' and '440' are just two words that go together.  The OP is on the cheap side right now to upgrade to a 440, and he can sell off the 'ready to build' 383.  I'd go for a mild 440 build.

Be honest - when you look at ads for non-R/T, non-matching number Chargers and you see "$thousands$ put in to big block 383" don't you just cringe a little bit too?

BIGBLCK11

The question rests on whether or not your original numbers will be enough in the future.  I am sure the 383 will get what you asked for, but when you want more power, what will you do?  You are starting from scratch.  As others have said, the build will cost relatively the same.  You have to buy the 440, but hopefully can get something back from the 383.  I have spent over 2k on my numbers matching 383, which was already a brand new rebuilt engine.  It was built to bone-stock specs by the prior owner.  Yes, it is fun now and meets your description for a desired cruiser build.  I now have a 69 440 sitting in the garage, waiting on funds to rebuild.  If I could do it all over, I would most definitely pull the stock-built engine out and never have spent a dime on it.  Not all of the parts will even work on the 440, so I get to spend more money.  I will only get to use the aluminum heads.  The cam and carb will be too small. The rpm intake and $600 headers won't fit.  I should just sell the motor to recoup some money.  But, I am compelled to keep the original motor, even though it is a non-r/t car.  I could probably have the block bored and get different pistons, but I can do that to the 440 as we'll.  I should be happy with it as is, but I want more power!  All of the add-ons I did, would have done even more for a stock 440.

You are in the perfect spot to avoid all of this.   :Twocents:

fy469rtse

Yep built many , 440 . my advise is if you can have a drive of both types of  engines in cars to compare, you would have to spend quite a bit for that 383 to match a well built stock 440,
start with the 440 , use only the block, alloy heads to get compression up for todays shit fuels, new steel crank etc
440

bull

So is this going to be used for street only? If so the only thing you'll be able to base the difference on is the seat-of-your-pants feel, and either one will get the blood pumping. I have driven a 440 Charger and while it was scary fast I couldn't honetly tell you it "felt" any different than my current 383.  That said, I've also ridden in a 69 Charger powered by a 340 and that thing got up and moved quite well.

I've owned three Chargers in my life and two of them had 383s so I may be a little biased. I can tell you first hand that a 70 Charger 383 can beat a 69 396 Camaro.

Tell me this though, about a possible 383 build. What pistons do you want to go with and has it/will it be bored?

Dreamcar

Quote from: bull on December 08, 2013, 08:26:43 PM
So is this going to be used for street only? If so the only thing you'll be able to base the difference on is the seat-of-your-pants feel, and either one will get the blood pumping. I have driven a 440 Charger and while it was scary fast I couldn't honetly tell you it "felt" any different than my current 383.  That said, I've also ridden in a 69 Charger powered by a 340 and that thing got up and moved quite well.

I've owned three Chargers in my life and two of them had 383s so I may be a little biased. I can tell you first hand that a 70 Charger 383 can beat a 69 396 Camaro.

Tell me this though, about a possible 383 build. What pistons do you want to go with and has it/will it be bored?

Yes it's purely a street cruiser. As far as pistons and bore, I was basically going to just drop it off at my engine builder's and tell him what I want for power and let him take the best course of action. I have no engine building experience so I would not begin to tell someone how to build an engine.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)