Swap the AMP meter to VOLT meter - stock look?!

[andben]

Hi guys, I have a AMP meter (in use) and is going to remove it and replace it with a VOLT meter. Someone has already replaced the tach to a newer one and connect it to the MSD box. It looks like stock and original and I want to keep all instruments look stock.

I have a '70 Charger and my question is:

Where to buy stock-looking VOLT meter that fits into the AMP meter hole?

[Pete in NH]

HI,

Take a look at Autogage # 2356. It's a 1-1/2 inch voltmeter that if you take it out of its case should fit into the ammeter space. The markings are not exactly like the stock lettering but are likely as close as you're going to find.

[cdr]

This should help    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,105785.msg1285942.html#msg1285942

[W4ATL]

I got my dash re-done by Redline. Here are some pictures, including the new voltmeter that looks like stock. I also replace my non-working clock with a stock looking tachometer. It all works great.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,91438.msg1057146.html#msg1057146

http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/default.asp

[Dino]

HI,

Take a look at Autogage # 2356. It's a 1-1/2 inch voltmeter that if you take it out of its case should fit into the ammeter space. The markings are not exactly like the stock lettering but are likely as close as you're going to find.

I wonder where the needle attaches.  If it's low enough, you should be able to slide a stock gauge face in front of it and apply your own lettering, or leave it as is.  We all know where 14 is on the gauge.   

[mhinders]

The Amp-meter tells you a lot more than the Volt-meter...upgrade the Amp-meter if needed...I know, I'm always against the stream... 

[Nacho-RT74]

The Amp-meter tells you a lot more than the Volt-meter...upgrade the Amp-meter if needed...I know, I'm always against the stream... 

+1

( on both statements )

[A383Wing]

+2 here for me

[RECHRGD]

So are there "upgraded" ammeters available?  If not, how would one go about it?

[Pete in NH]

I agree with ammeters tell you things voltmeters don't tell you, like whether current is flowing into or out of the battery. I prefer an ammeter over a voltmeter but, that only works if you stay with stock size alternators. Big alternators beyond the range of the ammeter is asking for problems. I'm not going to be at home for a few days but when L get back I can post a reference to so called "bullet proofing " the ammeter. I haven't tried it but it looks promising.  A search on bullet proofing Mopar ammeters might turn it up.

Update- I just did a search and the reference article i was thinking of came up  at Dodgetalk.com in the forums. It a bit involved and i would only try it on a spare ammeter.

[charger Downunder]

So what can a stock amp handle. Who is using a bigger alt with a stock amp and if so what is your alt output.

[mhinders]

The ammeter is by design very simple in nature. Inside my 67 ammeter there is a thick metal bar where the current flows, see the U-shaped thing at the bottom with the back of the screw terminals.

Just looking at the screw terminals and the U-bar, they can handle a lot of current. The needle itself has a small magnet which moves relatively to the size of the current flowing in the U-bar, and the needle itself has no physical contact with the current.

A big current would cause the needle to be firmly against the one of the end stops, but no harm should be done. The needle will not,  even being completely free, rotate past 90 degrees, since the magnetism will prevent that.

Myself I'm in no hurry to do anything to the stock ammeter, not even when upgrading to a powerful alternator. But, all wires and connections need be of the correct sizes, connections clean and in good condition.

The thin, light green wire is for the electroluminescense lighting of the needle.

[Pete in NH]

If you look at the photo in the last posting you will see the terminal posts for the ammeter are only pressed into the brass shunt piece. Over time as these parts age and oxidize .These crimped connections will increase in resistance and start heating up as high currents flow though them. If these parts were soldered together it would go a long way to improving things in the ammeter. You definitely want to upgrade the wiring around the ammeter path when going to a larger alternator but, the internal construction of the ammeter will remain a limiting factor in terms of those pressed in terminal posts.

[471_Magnum]

Somebody really needs to design/build a analog meter that utilizes a current transducer (CT). Just doesn't seem like it would be that difficult. That would get rid of one of the weak links in the electrical system.

[mhinders]

Somebody really needs to design/build a analog meter that utilizes a current transducer (CT). Just doesn't seem like it would be that difficult. That would get rid of one of the weak links in the electrical system.

I think you mean using a shunt? That has been available for many years, I have them in my boat. The ammeters (I have 2 for 2 different battery banks) are actually voltmeters with the scale in Amps, they show the minute voltage drop (which is relative to the current flow) in a 0,01 Ohms  resistor (something, don't remember the actual value) and the big current itself is not flowing thru the meters.

[471_Magnum]

Somebody really needs to design/build a analog meter that utilizes a current transducer (CT). Just doesn't seem like it would be that difficult. That would get rid of one of the weak links in the electrical system.

I think you mean using a shunt? That has been available for many years, I have them in my boat. The ammeters (I have 2 for 2 different battery banks) are actually voltmeters with the scale in Amps, they show the minute voltage drop (which is relative to the current flow) in a 0,01 Ohms  resistor (something, don't remember the actual value) and the big current itself is not flowing thru the meters.

I know they exist. Just waiting for someone to make a drop-in unit for our old Mopars.

[b5blue]

The reproduction OER Brand Alt. gauge has an increased rating to 60 Amps over the stock gauge. I have one I'm installing in my 70 that I changed out to a 120 Amp Denso Alt. because the Denso will put out 60 Amp @ idle if needed.