Stuck rear drum, how do i remove it?

[Lord Warlock]

Wish i could save the gas lock,  it was a factory option on mine, shows on the build sheet.  But its firmly locked into position even though for years I could lock and unlock it with any key, I about twisted a key that fit off inside the lock and it didn't unlock, so i'll have to have a locksmith take it out, just my luck i managed to lose the key after 28 years of having it available (1 key only) took it off the keyring for some reason, and now its gone. 

Gas tank is wasted, looks good enough on the outside but the inside is gunked up big time, wouldn't trust it on the car again so Its going to get tossed in favor of a replacement tank.  chalk up another 150.00 for a tank and sending unit. 

[chargerbr549]

On your gas lock problem something you might look at is the lip that the gas lock catches on might be bent, years ago I bought a new gas lock from Jacks Auto Parts and it worked alright when i first got it but then i started to have problems getting the lock out once in a while to fill it up with gas, at first I thought it was the key and tumbler getting jammed so I quit using it but I think main problem was the lip that the lock catches on gets bent from inserting the gas nozzle to fill it up so if you get that piece straightened back out that might fix your problem? I remember the only way I got it out was when I was at a gas station and needed to fill it up with fuel in order to get home that night I just used a pair of pliers and grabbed onto the key and finally worked it out of there, it kind of bent the key up a little bit but it still worked after i got it out.

[Dino]

Wish i could save the gas lock,  it was a factory option on mine, shows on the build sheet.  But its firmly locked into position even though for years I could lock and unlock it with any key, I about twisted a key that fit off inside the lock and it didn't unlock, so i'll have to have a locksmith take it out, just my luck i managed to lose the key after 28 years of having it available (1 key only) took it off the keyring for some reason, and now its gone. 

Gas tank is wasted, looks good enough on the outside but the inside is gunked up big time, wouldn't trust it on the car again so Its going to get tossed in favor of a replacement tank.  chalk up another 150.00 for a tank and sending unit. 

Be aware that the new sending unit will not match up with the stock fuel gauge so it will be off.  Unless your sender is busted I'd reuse it.

[b5blue]

Wish i could save the gas lock,  it was a factory option on mine, shows on the build sheet.  But its firmly locked into position even though for years I could lock and unlock it with any key, I about twisted a key that fit off inside the lock and it didn't unlock, so i'll have to have a locksmith take it out, just my luck i managed to lose the key after 28 years of having it available (1 key only) took it off the keyring for some reason, and now its gone. 

Gas tank is wasted, looks good enough on the outside but the inside is gunked up big time, wouldn't trust it on the car again so Its going to get tossed in favor of a replacement tank.  chalk up another 150.00 for a tank and sending unit. 

Money WELL SPENT! Clean all fuel and brake lines very well, use forced pressure some how while apart. 

[Lord Warlock]

Sending unit on the original was working fine before, even has the grounding strap intact.  how does it come off the tank?  I know there is a ring that somehow comes off, but not sure how its supposed to come loose,  the old one is pretty dusty/dirty on the outside, but came off with the old tank, so should be able to get to it easy enough now.  

Ordered a new spector? gas tank since those seem to be the most recommended here, spent a little more than the others, could have got a tank and a sending unit for the price i paid but didn't want chinese crap if i can avoid it.  Been fairly disappointed with alot of whats coming out of china these days.

shouldn't have to reuse old fuel lines, have a brand new fuel line to install,  but it didn't include a fuel return line in the kit as i thought it would, think i disconnected that at the fuel pump years ago anyway since I took the vapor lock cannister off in the 70s. 

[Dino]

There is a sending unit lock ring tool.  The ring turns a few degrees and comes right off.  You could use the old hammer and screwdriver technique  but the $12 for the tool is a good investment.  The ring should be reusable, the seal may not.  You can buy both pretty cheap if needed.

[Lord Warlock]

The tank comes with a new ring and seal, so i should be good as far as that goes, just need to get the old one off to get the sending unit out, and clean it if possible.  Have a hammer and screwdriver so will probably try that first, I take it counterclockwise would loosen?   I'll probably have to get a new tank filler neck grommet/seal the old one looks a bit worn out.

Considering the fact that we removed the tank, and flushed it out 10 years ago, I would have thought it would be cleaner inside than it was.  It was coated in black crusty material so much that now i wonder what was in the fuel line and filter thats been on the car for a long time.  Filter is gonna have to get replaced of course.  No wonder it never wanted to start hooked up to the tank/fuel lines, but starts right up with a hose stuck in a gas can. 

[Dino]

Yes counterclockwise.  With the tank out, you may be able to put some big [pliers on it to twist but either way it should be easy enough to remove.  The ring only has to turn enough to clear the tabs.

Gas is nasty stuff, it was a good idea to get a new tank!   

[Pete in NH]

Has anyone else had problems with aftermarket tanks and seal rings/gaskets being thinner than the OEM stock parts and leaking badly. I went through a really nasty issue with this on on a 96 Jeep Cherokee. The aftermarket ring and seal was thinner than the OEM part. In the end I had to get original Chrysler parts to resolve the problem. I was wondering if there are similar issues with replacement tanks for older Mopars.

[Lord Warlock]

Ring came off easy enough with the hammer and chisel method, was pretty shocked with what came out of the hole, sending unit was covered in rust, but was intact,  the sock portion on the pickup tube was totally sealed off as the material had hardened to a point where nothing would flow through it, looked like it had been soaked in varnish then dried, and it had turned black.  When i touched it, or picked at it lightly, it broke off in three pieces.  The float arm still moved freely but have serious doubts I could clean this sending unit well enough even with a sandblaster or soda blaster (If i could get soda to come out of the tank of the cheapo harbor freight soda blaster i got last year).  I'll play around with it a bit tomorrow and see what develops, but to be on the safe side i ordered a replacement 3/8 line stainless steel unit off of ebay.  Didn't want to get a tank and then be not able to proceed and wait on a sending unit when i decided to put it back in the car.  Although thats really not a rush item yet, I still have to open the trunk lid and see how many holes i can see in the floor now that the tank is out of the car.  Suspect there are more now than before, and also suspect floor isn't near as sturdy as it was without a tank bolted in place. 

Did get most of the engine parts back together, except the idler arm which i conveniently forgot where it goes.  made a thread about that one elsewhere though. 

[Lord Warlock]

One of these days I will learn, and take pictures before i disassemble something.  how is the sending unit oriented inside of the tank?  Got the new unit, compared against the old and it looks like an almost perfect match, and it is stainless steel.  tank came with a seal and locking ring, the sending unit also came with a seal and ring also.  Now i just have to figure out how the unit sits, so i install the sending unit in the right position instead of upside down. 

[ws23rt]

I may be wrong but recall my new sending unit had two tangs on it that fit only one way. 

[Lord Warlock]

Got the new brake assembly put together, and then was able to mount the axle without too much trouble, didn't seem to want to line up with the gears but finally went in after a few minutes of trial and error.  


All buttoned up again with the new drum cover in place, meant to take a picture of the axle hanging loose, but had left the camera inside and didn't want to stop at the time.


New gas tank, sitting on a creeper, sending unit sitting in place, still needs lock ring to lock in place, but fingertips are too sensitive for that work, they've been punctured and scratched and are a bit tender now, it can wait till i'm ready to put the tank back in. Have plenty of more work to do before that happens.  



rear diff got a coat of paint, tried to keep the markings on the cover intact, although did cover a small area by accident.


Even got the drivers side brake line installed, still needs final tightening, but want to wait until i get the other side installed before i tighten everything down.  Get to work on the rest of the brake lines this week, before going home to visit family.

[Hard Charger]

Hey Warlock;   Fun job when the axle is still in the car.

I ripped my axle out with the springs to paint and rebuild it. It turned out to be a lot of work cleaning everything while on saw horses.

[Dino]

It's a good time to replace those shocks as well.   

[Lord Warlock]

agree, the shocks will be replaced when i can drive it to a shop, decided they weren't worth cleaning up at this point.  As for taking the diff out, that wasn't going to happen, way more work than I wanted to take on just to clean it up a little.  Only reason why I did get under there was because the trunk floor was no longer in place and i could sit up behind the axle to clean it off and paint it.  Plus that thing is heavy, I don't have much help with it comes to lifting heavy objects around the house or garage, the women are useless for that, and I've got a bad shoulder. 

I do want to clean up the tailpipes, just not sure what to coat them with yet.  Want to paint the exhaust manifolds also, they look like rust bolted to the motor, and the engine is fairly nice looking otherwise. Going out now to work on the distribution block, and other brake lines.