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cracked 440 block

Started by nge, November 27, 2013, 12:54:50 PM

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nge

(Un)funny thing happed on the way to work. I never checked the freeze plugs when I bought my 73 Charger.
A previous owner installed a 78' 440,  I didnt know that he also installed one rubber expandable freeze plug (like the ones I use for my swimming pool), all the other plugs were original metal plugs.
Turns out I blew the plug on start up, did'nt see it,  backed out of my garage and drove 6 miles to work.  When I got there the and turned the engine off, i noticed that the engine over heated (once the fan stopped the temp spiked).  I got it towed home and notice the freeze plug on my garage floor...so it blew on start up.
I installed a brass freeze plug , refilled the coolant, checked the oil for cooland and restarted it. After about 5 min at idle I noticed a small hairline crack in the block (passenger side between the two rear-most freeze plugs).
I guess i cracked the block, when I drove it, but I wonder if the 1 rubber plug was there because the block had been cracked already, or If I cracked it in my 6 mile trip.

My mechanic told me that now that the plug has been replaced, I should go ahead and drive it and enjoy it, just don't go on long trips....the thought being that the crack is  a slow leak....what bit me was the the freeze plug falling out.

Had many cars in my life, never cracked a block, never thought I could

bull


b5blue

Looks like a job for "Bars Stopleak" ........I know many say NO! but it's worked for me in the past.

greenpigs

I never tried the above but try and "fix" the crack now before it gets even bigger.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

A383Wing

I have had a couple 383's that had cracked between the center & rear freeze plugs on the passenger side....the "fix" was to find another block

Indygenerallee

Source another 440 block and REBUILD IT BIGGER.... no permanent fix just gonna be temporary! Best do it up RIGHT!!!!  :2thumbs:
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

RGA

How is it not leaking if its cracked ? You sure it's cracked and not a casting line ?
The only way to fix a crack in a block is to drill it, tap it, put a bolt in it and grind the bolt flat..... One hole at a time all the way down the crack. Or just get another 440 (best way). Blown out plug and crack sounds like it froze.

nge

maybe it did freeze at one time, I did notice that the antifreeze was brown when I changed it the first time last year.  I still cant figure out what would cause it to blow on start-up on a 60 deg F day. 
Maybee it just got loose over time? 
Anyway I'm looking locally for a 440block :brickwall: Found one for about 500 bucks.

Indygenerallee

You can never fix a cracked block!!!! Once it's cracked it's junk!!! ask the 53 block Cummins guys... Once a block is cracked it's toast... Even the best welds wont hold....
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

Todd Wilson

Smear some JB Weld on it and go drive it!


Todd

A383Wing

Quote from: Indygenerallee on November 27, 2013, 10:50:38 PM
You can never fix a cracked block!!!! Once it's cracked it's junk!!!

:iagree:

and JB weld may cover the outside of the crack...but it won't get to the other side of the wall where crack is...

Chargerguy74

Oh that sucks! I know if I had that happen to me, and the block was a non original late 70s, I'd probably end up windowing the side of that block, or scattering pistons all over the highway, once I found a replacement. But, I'm not normal.

Sorry, I know I am of no help.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

JB400

Sounds like damage from the previous owner.  Only reason he'd install something like that freeze plug was either he's a cheapskate and used what was laying around, not mechanically inclined, or was hiding something like the crack.

Sad to hear it happened to you  :pity:  If you're buying just a block, have it magnafluxed before you buy it.

Tilar

Quote from: Indygenerallee on November 27, 2013, 10:50:38 PM
You can never fix a cracked block!!!! Once it's cracked it's junk!!! ask the 53 block Cummins guys... Once a block is cracked it's toast... Even the best welds wont hold....

Actually that's not totally true. There may be issues with the Cummins 53 block but I've done Perkins, Continental and a few other industrial engines with good success. Drill a hole at each end of the crack so it doesn't go any further and make sure that whoever does the welding actually understands how to weld cast and it will be just fine. Cast is a different animal to weld than steel.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



garner7555

That's exactly true Tilar, cast can be welded.  :2thumbs:    Especially in a low stress area such as between the two freeze plugs.   :Twocents:
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Ghoste

Many a race block or head has benn cracked and welded to save the day.  Would it be my first choice if an uncracked block was available for a rebuild?  Probably not.

Tilar

I don't know of anyone that would actually pick a repaired block that had been cracked over a block with no cracks, but it's mainly because of the hype that goes with a cracked block, not because it can't still be a good block.  :Twocents:
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



Tilar

Oh and one more thing, The cracked Mopar blocks that I've seen due to freezing were cracked on the inside under the intake, not on the outside. I would make sure it is a crack and not a casting mark like was mentioned above.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



myk

Quote from: A383Wing on November 27, 2013, 06:53:28 PM
I have had a couple 383's that had cracked between the center & rear freeze plugs on the passenger side....the "fix" was to find another block

No way would I ever try to fix a cracked block-that thing is toast...

Stretch

High dollar race blocks are welded back together all the time. I welded a cracked 2.2 in my shelby daytona turbo 2 car. It froze and cracked across the back of the block. I pulled it out, drill stopped the crack, ground out the crack, warmed it up with a rose bud, welded it with hi nickle cast DC rod wrapped it in a blanket and let it cool. I drove the car for years beating the shit out of it every chance I got and never once had an issue.

I got the car for free. My buddy owns a few rentals. It was abandoned at one of his properties. He gave it to me for loading it up on my trailer and hauling it away. The crack in the block must be why it was left behind.

As for titling it, It's simple here in Michigan. I just had the sheriff come and inspect it then took the VIN. to the DMV and ask for a lost title and VIN. search. $14.00 later I had the car in my name.
I may be schizophrenic but at least I have us!

Ghoste

As the supply of available used block and heads fades, there will be less and less of the notion that "its junk, throw it away".  When a Duesenberg block is cracked or a Packard head is cracked do you think they just throw them out? 

ACUDANUT

"High dollar race blocks are welded back together all the time. I welded a cracked 2.2 in my shelby daytona turbo 2 car"
I don't think that 2.2 is a High dollar race blocks.  To fix a crack, imo is to drill the beginning and the end of the crack and weld it up...Or get a better engine year other than 78.

maxwellwedge

What I can't believe is the engine didn't seize with zero coolant.....I think you will find you have scuffed pistons and bearings now - at the minimum.

Tilar

I wouldn't think so with being driven just 6 miles but he's probably going to have to pull it out to get a good weld on it anyway... Might be worth pulling the pan and maybe the heads to check it out.   :shruggy:
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



myk

Unless we're talking about maintaining originality for a garage/show queen then I personally would just find another block...

Stretch

Quote from: ACUDANUT on November 29, 2013, 10:29:03 AM
"High dollar race blocks are welded back together all the time. I welded a cracked 2.2 in my shelby daytona turbo 2 car"
I don't think that 2.2 is a High dollar race blocks.  To fix a crack, imo is to drill the beginning and the end of the crack and weld it up...Or get a better engine year other than 78.

I didn't say a 2.2 was a high dollar race block. It was just an example. The block in my daytona was a 2nd example.  Sorry to miss lead.
I may be schizophrenic but at least I have us!

maxwellwedge

Quote from: Tilar on November 29, 2013, 05:25:30 PM
I wouldn't think so with being driven just 6 miles but he's probably going to have to pull it out to get a good weld on it anyway... Might be worth pulling the pan and maybe the heads to check it out.   :shruggy:

I completely cooked one while driving it under 5 minutes...but mine was pretty well bone dry....maybe he was lucky and had a little in there.

nge

I was running Evans coolant and Amzoil 10w40. Dont know if thats what saved the engine, but I do know that I put 10 more miles on it
since the repair. Still Looking for a new block

Tilar

Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



nge

Yes it leaks...barely the crack gets wet after it heats up.  You can see where the leak has cleaned the block around the crack.
(if I drive it locally, I just have watch my fluid level every trip)

Tilar

If you plan to change the block anyway, Get it hot and pour a full can of black pepper down the radiator. That will seal the crack. I used to use liquid glass but some types of antifreeze will eat that stuff up and I'm not even sure you can buy it anymore. Even if you do decide to repair it, all you gotta do is flush the block before you put it back in service.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



ACUDANUT

Quote from: nge on December 02, 2013, 03:43:27 PM
Yes it leaks...barely the crack gets wet after it heats up.  You can see where the leak has cleaned the block around the crack.
(if I drive it locally, I just have watch my fluid level every trip)

Are you talking about the same spot you circled earlier ?

nge

Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 03, 2013, 04:20:54 PM
Quote from: nge on December 02, 2013, 03:43:27 PM
Yes it leaks...barely the crack gets wet after it heats up.  You can see where the leak has cleaned the block around the crack.
(if I drive it locally, I just have watch my fluid level every trip)

Are you talking about the same spot you circled earlier ?
Not sure I understand the question.... The fist leak that caused men problems was the blown freeze plug.  The crack may have always been therem but it was undsicuvered until we had to spend some time looking at that area of the block.

nge

Quote from: Tilar on December 03, 2013, 04:07:23 PM
If you plan to change the block anyway, Get it hot and pour a full can of black pepper down the radiator. That will seal the crack. I used to use liquid glass but some types of antifreeze will eat that stuff up and I'm not even sure you can buy it anymore. Even if you do decide to repair it, all you gotta do is flush the block before you put it back in service.
I will try that, beacuse I will eventually go with a new block........but tell me more about the pepper?  Are you talking about a standard size can used in the kitchen?  As an engineer, I very interested to know what the pepper does to plug the crack.  I love learning new stuff!

Old Moparz

Seems like the easiest thing to do is track down another block & go from there. One thing I'd still do first though, is to have the cracked block looked at by a machine shop & then make the final decision. Used blocks are for sale all the time & range in price from $100 up to several hundred if the seller pushes it as "Date Coded" or deciphers the VIN from a rare car.

There is one on ebay right now for $200.
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

ACUDANUT

Quote from: nge on December 04, 2013, 09:13:17 AM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 03, 2013, 04:20:54 PM
Quote from: nge on December 02, 2013, 03:43:27 PM
Yes it leaks...barely the crack gets wet after it heats up.  You can see where the leak has cleaned the block around the crack.
(if I drive it locally, I just have watch my fluid level every trip)

Are you talking about the same spot you circled earlier ?
Not sure I understand the question.... The fist leak that caused men problems was the blown freeze plug.  The crack may have always been therem but it was undsicuvered until we had to spend some time looking at that area of the block.

Sorry that was meant for a different, but similar thread.
Pepper has never helped me in any automotive fix.... :Twocents:

Ranman69SE

It's been five years now that I've been driving my GTO with a repaired block, no problems (knocking on wood!).   
'69 Charger SE 493
'65 Pontiac GTO 6.5 Liter Tripower 4-spd convertible
'78 Ford F250 4x4 SuperCab 460
'85 Yamaha FJ1100
'91 Yamaha FJ1200

Tilar

Quote from: nge on December 04, 2013, 09:18:24 AM
Quote from: Tilar on December 03, 2013, 04:07:23 PM
If you plan to change the block anyway, Get it hot and pour a full can of black pepper down the radiator. That will seal the crack. I used to use liquid glass but some types of antifreeze will eat that stuff up and I'm not even sure you can buy it anymore. Even if you do decide to repair it, all you gotta do is flush the block before you put it back in service.
I will try that, beacuse I will eventually go with a new block........but tell me more about the pepper?  Are you talking about a standard size can used in the kitchen?  As an engineer, I very interested to know what the pepper does to plug the crack.  I love learning new stuff!

Yep, just a large kitchen size. The black pepper swells up and fills in the crack.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.