Removing old Fuses-able Link

[cudaken]

Any tips on removing the old fuses-able link? What I am working with is a 68 Road Runner and harness is a Year One item that is about 15 years old. Here is what I am working with. The link is the upper left.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner011_zpsb217bf42.jpg.html]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner010_zps9416ee22.jpg.html]

By the way, the keyboard is somewhat cleaner in person.

Took the harness to a friends shop to have it replaced, but the tech could not get it out. (Chevy Guy) Said there was no movement in the spade. I played with it for a while and could get the spade and wire to move in and out about a 1/4 inch. 

He all so said I need to squeezes the spade end together and then push it out. Is that correct, or do I releases something from the engine side?

From what I can see the spade looks something like this.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner006_zps665f7e95.jpg.html]

If I understand Tim correctly I need to get needle nose on the base, squeezes and push it out? 

If Tim is correct and I cannot push it out in this fashion, could I cut part of the spade off like in this drawing and then push it out?

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner007_zpsd07b3cd3.jpg.html]

Tips, suggestion and tips welcomed.

                 Cuda Ken

[A383Wing]

the spade has a split in it where you cannot see it...gently squeeze the tab with a pair of needle nose pliers to make the tab close, then pull out wire...you will see how it works when you get it out

[cudaken]

So Brain, how do you get it out?


Ken

[A383Wing]

squeeze the tab sideways with needle nose pliers, it will release the tab, then pull wire & tab out from the rear of connector

[Dino]

With the needle nose pliers you effectively close that gap you see on the connector.  Then you can pull the wire and connector out from the back.  If ever you need to remove a wire but are planning on reusing the connector, stick a small screw driver in the connector's slot and give it a twist to open it back up so it'll click back into place.

[cudaken]

I did get it out! 

Dino, I saw your answer after I got it out. I did use a screw driver as you posted. I all so cut off the part of the spade that springs out. Took me around 45 minutes of playing with it and  but was not that hard.

Any idea where I can get a spade as long as the factory style? My spade's are all to short.

Cuda Ken

[Dino]

I did get it out! 

Dino, I saw your answer after I got it out. I did use a screw driver as you posted. I all so cut off the part of the spade that springs out. Took me around 45 minutes of playing with it and  but was not that hard.

Any idea where I can get a spade as long as the factory style? My spade's are all to short.

Cuda Ken

Ken there's several places that sell them.  Most sell them in batches of 10 or more.  Be sure to go over the wiring diagram so you know what gauge you need as they come in different sizes.  You are looking for the Packard 56 Delphi connector.  There is a style used on Chryslers and another used on GM.  The latter will work just as well, the only difference is that it has extra tabs to secure the insulated part of the wire, which is actually a better design imo.

You could try to swing by the local Radio Shack as they sometimes have them in stock as well.  I have not found them at my local parts stores but it seems all they have in stock lately is bolt on bs parts and seat covers.

[A383Wing]

nobody local sells them. I had to go to Terminal Supply Company..I just got my order of 700 here. I use these to make my upgraded relay sets for the 66 & 67 Charger headlight motors. How many ya need Ken?

[cudaken]

Could you spare say 4 to be safe?

PM me who much you need and shipping to 62062.

Thanks a lot, Ken

[A383Wing]

Ken, send me a PM with all yer mailing info & I will get ya some in the mail on Monday....there are special crimpers for these...but you can probably use standard pliers or crimpers and solder the terminal on.

Bryan