higher amp alternator

[Nacho-RT74]

actually, these with 55 amps at iddle are enough

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=23

[1974dodgecharger]

Good info again nacho....my problem is alot of stop and go traffic so she does charge the bettery enough.....until I hit the highway for ciuple hours then battery is full...

[b5blue]

You know you can get the brackets from Hughes Engine and the Denso 120 just about anyplace right? 

[Nacho-RT74]

once again, 55 amps at iddle is enough even with A/C... BTDT

[b5blue]

If I ever had 55@idle I'd never needed the Denso! 

[1974dodgecharger]

once again, 55 amps at iddle is enough even with A/C... BTDT

Not me, I have a 1k amp running I think that alone is some nice amps running. She idles poorly with radio on and if I turn it off yes she ideles at 13.5v but radio she drops 12v at idle. 

[Nacho-RT74]

thats a diff deal. I'm talking about basic equipment

[1974dodgecharger]

You know you can get the brackets from Hughes Engine and the Denso 120 just about anyplace right? 

Now u tell me lol.....I had the big block bracket for air that hooked onto to engine block side.

[b5blue]

I don't know about fitting A/C but will be sorting that out later this year, Classic Auto Air is just across the bay from me. 
  I know I posted a source link for brackets on the forum a while ago when I found Mancini was out. 

[b5blue]

They have been out of stock there for months. Be certain they have it before ordering! 

See I warned ya..

[1974dodgecharger]

They have been out of stock there for months. Be certain they have it before ordering! 

See I warned ya..

yeah,should of listened to a veteran 

[RuNvS69]

And if you want to get REALLY silly...
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
I agree with the comments about the 40 year old wiring.

I actually have the Powermaster alternator on my car and I upgraded my wiring/bypassed the ammeter.  I'm running the MSD Digital 6AL ignition system with the ProBillet distributor, BeCool dual electric fans, Holley w/ electric choke, upgraded lights, trunk-mounted battery, etc etc.

I love it.  Never have the slightest of fluctuations/dimming on any of my systems. EVER.
(Don't mind the fuel line running over it right now, I since have run it under and behind and cleaned up the wires running along the intake)



Overkill? Maybe.  Piece of mind worth every penny to me? Absolutely.

[1974dodgecharger]

Thats beautiful!!!  Is that a drop pan you have to fit that mopar performance under the good?  I recently bought a ford drop base so I can fit a larger air filter under the hood.

And if you want to get REALLY silly...
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
I agree with the comments about the 40 year old wiring.

I actually have the Powermaster alternator on my car and I upgraded my wiring/bypassed the ammeter.  I'm running the MSD Digital 6AL ignition system with the ProBillet distributor, BeCool dual electric fans, Holley w/ electric choke, upgraded lights, trunk-mounted battery, etc etc.

I love it.  Never have the slightest of fluctuations/dimming on any of my systems. EVER.
(Don't mind the fuel line running over it right now, I since have run it under and behind and cleaned up the wires running along the intake)



Overkill? Maybe.  Piece of mind worth every penny to me? Absolutely.

[RuNvS69]

Thats beautiful!!!  Is that a drop pan you have to fit that mopar performance under the hood?  I recently bought a ford drop base so I can fit a larger air filter under the hood.

Thank you!  And yes it is-- I had no choice but to order a Ford drop-base air cleaner from summitracing just to use the base plate.  But it fits with just enough clearance on top of my Holley Ultra 750 double pumper (I'm also using the Holley "Street Dominator" intake manifold, NOT the edelbrock as it sits way too high).

I put a LOT of time into researching everything I did in my engine bay and I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you have if they pop up.  I wanted my car to be as modern and reliable as possible without going the fuel injection route. I'll go that route if I ever decide to build a blown 440. 

[1974dodgecharger]

And if you want to get REALLY silly...
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
I agree with the comments about the 40 year old wiring.

I got silly after going through battery after batter and alternator not charger and giving me enough amps i got the 180 idle and 320amp max.  Works perfect, awesome fit, no worries.  I was really pushing my alternators hard talking to qualitypowerauto i needed at least 200amps to run total all my electrical when fully all turned on lights, radio, 3 fans, etc....i did do the 140idle and 200amp but it was not enough.  Even with a denso 120amp at idle stop and go she dipped down to 12volts or so, no dimming lights full brightness.

[Brads70]

Looks great. I assume you by passed the ammeter gauge too. 

[Ghoste]

And upgraded the wiring and eliminated the bulkhead connector?

[1974dodgecharger]

of course you guys, lol I learn from the best here at DC.com you guys provided all the info needed.  Bypassed it 2 years ago and upgraded wiring from alternator to connection point to 0 guage and 0 guage from connection to battery.  The bypassed is 10 guage though would love to gone bigger, but 10 guage would only fit through that bulkhead.

[Ghoste]

 

[myk]

of course you guys, lol I learn from the best here at DC.com you guys provided all the info needed.  Bypassed it 2 years ago and upgraded wiring from alternator to connection point to 0 guage and 0 guage from connection to battery.  The bypassed is 10 guage though would love to gone bigger, but 10 guage would only fit through that bulkhead.

You don't have an engine mounted fan, do you?  I like it.  What e-fans and 'rad are you using?  How hot does your car run?

[Brads70]

Did you get the optional portable welding cable kit with that alternator? 

[1974dodgecharger]

Did you get the optional portable welding cable kit with that alternator? 

lmao, actually I use welding cable size 3-0 if you know welding you know that cable can handle some nice amperage if needed not that the car will ever need it, but safer than sorry.

Myk,
I went with champion radiator 4 row setup with shroud made by a company on ebay they sell the radiator and shroud together for like 450 bucks they build the shroud and they drop ship the radiator from champion in California actually.  I have two 12 in pull position and a pusher 16 that claims 3000cfm in pull, but since its in pusher who knows.  Fans turn on at 185ish and stays at 180....

[b5blue]

I'm so glad you got this all sorted out proper!    Many do not seem to grasp that to size alt. output you must add all possible power draws then factor alt output at idle. Who knew just five or six years after myself finding that the Denso 120 was my only real option for it's 60 amp idle output so many even better more powerful units would come to market! 

[MaximRecoil]

Even at 60 amps you're still going to get the issues you're having now.  Honestly, with wiring that's over 40 years old I think getting a higher 'amp 'alt and the supporting wiring is just a band aid and doesn't eliminate the true problem at hand: old, substandard wiring that has passed its usefullness.  My solution?  Get the entire car rewired; it's one of the best things I've ever done for this bucket of bolts...

40-year-old intact wiring conducts electricity just as well as brand new wiring, unless it is significantly corroded, which is rare (because the insulation seals out the elements). However, in some cases the insulation can be in bad shape (dry/cracking) which exposes the copper to the elements and carries the risk of shorting out, and then it is best to replace the wiring. That usually only happens to wiring under the hood though. All the other wiring leads a sheltered life in the relatively temperate interior and in the dark.

As for going to a high-output alternator, you don't have to be concerned about all of the wiring. All of the electrical stuff your car came with from the factory will still be drawing the same amperage as it always has, thus its stock wiring is still fine. You should upgrade the wiring ("upgrade" meaning larger gauge and/or adding additional wiring in parallel) for the battery charging circuit and relevant grounds, and make sure the wiring going to any high amperage device you've added (such as a car stereo amplifier) is sufficient.

[1974dodgecharger]

I concur what everyone said.....weird to say but all the advices are correct.