Axle Adjuster? Only on one side?

[Canadian1968]

From what i understand in the manual the piece that I am looking at is called an adjuster?  Its only on the passanger side of the axle though???

How come?

The geared looking piece with every other tooth bent over.

[b5blue]

That is correct. One nut should have a retainer on it, a bracket that holds the screw part of the adjuster from moving. 

[Nacho-RT74]

the adjuster makes both axles to meet inside through a floating shaft into the gear carrier, that's the reason why is just one. The driver side axle keeps fixed, the passenger side moves againts it

[Hard Charger]

I just tore down my axle.

how do you adjust that when reinstalling.

is it by feel?

[Moparparts]

Turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is zero end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approx. four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008-.018 inch

I just tore down my axle.

how do you adjust that when reinstalling.

is it by feel?

[Hard Charger]

Turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is zero end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approx. four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008-.018 inch

I just tore down my axle.

how do you adjust that when reinstalling.

is it by feel?

ok
Thanks

[lexxman]

I'm going to be rebuilding my diff soon, and I was looking at the same thing.Someone told me I could put (green) bearings in to do away with having to adjust it. Is this correct? Are you rebuilding yours?

[Ghoste]

It is but they aren't great for side loads (think cornering).

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm going to be rebuilding my diff soon, and I was looking at the same thing.Someone told me I could put (green) bearings in to do away with having to adjust it. Is this correct? Are you rebuilding yours?

It is but they aren't great for side loads (think cornering).

Lot of discussions around about that. I'd stick stock due what Ghoste says.

[lexxman]

This will be the first diff I've rebuild,so I have very little experience with it. I think that may be a good idea. I hope to get into it in the new year.
Hey Canadian1969 were areyou located?

[Canadian1968]

I am in London Ontario

[ws23rt]

I'm going to be rebuilding my diff soon, and I was looking at the same thing.Someone told me I could put (green) bearings in to do away with having to adjust it. Is this correct? Are you rebuilding yours?

It is but they aren't great for side loads (think cornering).

Lot of discussions around about that. I'd stick stock due what Ghoste says.

I agree with Ghoste. The original bearings are tapered rollers that are designed to handle high side loads. We do go around corners from time to time.

[Ghoste]

London?  I'm just down the road in Chatham.

[ws23rt]

I am curious about this topic.  

A couple of questions about (green bearings)---What is the reason for the move to use them?  Is it cause it's too much trouble to adjust the original type?

Also what's up with the name green?  Is this a sales pitch?    Bearings can be had with black seals.

And a comment about ball bearings vs tapered. --- Tapered bearings can handle more than ten times the side load that ball bearings can.

[Ghoste]

It started because of the adjustment issue as far as I know and I think Grenn was just the name of the company making them (but I'm not sure).

[ws23rt]

It started because of the adjustment issue as far as I know and I think Grenn was just the name of the company making them (but I'm not sure).

Thanks--I though it was something like that.----When the term green comes up I get a twitch that sets off my internal scam alert

[Ghoste]

Me too.

[Canadian1968]

London?  I'm just down the road in Chatham.

That's great! I know there are a lot charger owners in the area. Try a meet sometime I in the spring/summer

[b5blue]

  Green Bearings are sealed bearings as opposed to the stock type. One issue is there is no real way to "re-pack with grease" the stock bearings like you can on the front of the car. Sure you can get some grease in there but you really can't clean and repack as they are trapped. I checked with my very trusted Mopar mechanic Chuck before going with "Green's" and he's installed at least a dozen over the last 10 years with zero issue.
 With my car running around having no interior I faintly but clearly heard slight bearing noise after about 20K-30K miles of a complete 8 3/4 axle overhaul. I had him pull the chunk and check everything, install Greens, clean and re-assemble. As the car had seen some really hard miles, several 900-1000 mile road trips and was used as my "construction work truck" for 6 years running around crappy job sites in the mud and gravel hitting potholes and crap in the dirt. (All while the trunk was stuffed to full with tools.)
 He said he found no issues but when I cleaned the old races from the Timken's I showed him they had "brindle" marks just at what would be the top of the race. (With the highest load point.)  See that is what I heard, a slight growl that changed pitch cornering. I "think" it's more of an issue about real world use than load capacity, the sealed bearing is 100% protected, lubed for life system as opposed to the stock setup's open design. I don't have a dog in the fight between what is better, I have 2 Factory NOS outboard bearing rebuild kits in my inventory just in case. Many truck/car manufacturers use the sealed bearings now. With my Chargers truck days long behind it for good I can say the stock setup is not indestructible but very tough to beat!        

[lexxman]

As I said I have little experience rebuilding diffs. From what I was told is that no adjustment needed and less maintenance. Just as b5blue said, i plan to start work on my diff soon. So I can install it back in the car and have a rolling chassis.