Headlight bucket motor substitute

[Daytona313]

I was wondering if anyone had any info on a good substitute motor for operating the pop up headlights, mainly for a Daytona clone? I heard a early 2000's Nissan works. has anyone tried this?

[daytonalo]

I USED A ELECTRIC MOTOR FROM A 90'S CHRYSLER , IT USES THE SAME SIZE HEADLIGHT MOTOR SQUARE SHAFT

[Daytona313]

I USED A ELECTRIC MOTOR FROM A 90'S CHRYSLER , IT USES THE SAME SIZE HEADLIGHT MOTOR SQUARE SHAFT

Do you remember what model and year?

[nakita7]

Would not the 70-72 Charger headlight motor work for this, just wondering?

[daytonalo]

THE CAR WAS A FIFTH AVE OR LEBARON. THEY ARE A DIME A DOZEN . ONE MAJOR PROBLEM IS THAT THE NEW MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE HAVE STOPS BUILT IN LIKE ORIGANAL , I HAVE TO WORK THAT OUT YET

[Mike DC]

Look into the late-80s/early-90s Pontiac Firebirds. 

After about 8-10 years of uninterrupted use of those flip-up doors, GM had to work out a lot of the kinks.  After about 1987 the motors had built-in stops and also a manual knob to open the doors by hand in case of trouble.

.

[hotrod98]

We looked at a 91 Firebird GTA a while back. The problem with the manual knob would be access. On the firebird, it's mounted so that it is accessable from the top when the hood is opened. I don't know the actual angle of a daytona nose so I had no way of comparing that. Even with adjustable stops, it would need to be close. Does anyone know the angle of the nose in the headlamp area? Would be nice if it would work since there are a lot of those gm f-bodies sitting around in salvage yards.
Speaking of gm's, I'm going to look at a late 80's, early 90's grand prix for the small square headlamps to mount in the nose of my superbird clone. The 93 to 97 camaro headlamp assys will work but they get a premium for those headlamp setups. The gp setup might work in the daytona nose as well for those that don't want the expense or hassle of the regular headlamps. Just a thought.

[dayclona]

We looked at a 91 Firebird GTA a while back. The problem with the manual knob would be access. On the firebird, it's mounted so that it is accessable from the top when the hood is opened. I don't know the actual angle of a daytona nose so I had no way of comparing that. Even with adjustable stops, it would need to be close. Does anyone know the angle of the nose in the headlamp area? Would be nice if it would work since there are a lot of those gm f-bodies sitting around in salvage yards.
Speaking of gm's, I'm going to look at a late 80's, early 90's grand prix for the small square headlamps to mount in the nose of my superbird clone. The 93 to 97 camaro headlamp assys will work but they get a premium for those headlamp setups. The gp setup might work in the daytona nose as well for those that don't want the expense or hassle of the regular headlamps. Just a thought.

       Larry,
If your familar with firebird/ GM electric motors,same as pontiac Fireo motors, .............I've used these on bird/ daytona conversions for those who prefer an electric motor lift, .......I prefer these over the Chrysler motor,.................the GM motor is has more lift "power",......also without stops in place the motor will wind 360 degrees, clockwise/ counter clockwise,............but the benefit of the GM motor is to mount it to a plate, make adjustable stops where you desire, I weld a steel block with a tapped hole  w/ a grade 8 bolt (for fine adjustment) fabricate a linkage arm on the motor shaft, another linkage arm for the headlite pivot, I use heim ends and threaded rod to join the 2 arms together,.........a ratio of 3 to 1 on the arm lengths works best, with the long arm on the motor, you must have rugged positive stops on the motor mounting plate for both up and down movement, I place my stops so that the motor arm hits them, meaning the arm (motor) contacts the bolthead, similar to manual trans mission shifter bolt stop..................the GM motor can be mounted in any position, on Daytonas, I make access to the manual motor knob through the lower  snokel holes cut into the nose, superbirds , one of 2 ways, I add 2 small snorkle holes behind the front spoiler (so you don't see them) or position the motors to point rearward and gain access with the hood open, gotta have long arms though!,........I prefer 2 small snorkels behind the front spoiler on the bird to gain access left and right, to the motors,.................and install a generic 30 amp relay as close to the motor as possible, not back at the supply, if you'll notice GM  mounts the relay 3-6 " away from the motor wire feeds, ........I've tried the relay downstream, dose not benefit the motor,............use 1 motor per lite assy w/ 1 relay per motor, don't atempt to have 1 motor "pick-up" 2 lites,...... it don't work!..........trust me!,............remember the GM motor knows no position, in mounting, although there is a l and r motor,.........put them where you want, how you want,.................they are "programmable" to your desires,...........warning though, get a GM wiring diagram, the motors, depending on the application they come from have, wiring alternatives,............apply 12 volts to the wrong lead while "playing" with the set up your designing , and POOF!, .............junk motor!




Mike G/ DAYCLONA

[Daytona313]

Do you have any pictures of the mock up with the pontiac motors? I used to own a couple late 80's firebirds and I still have some extra head light motors.

[daytonalo]

MIKE ,IS THE GM MOTOR COMPATABLE WITH THE STOCK CHARGER WIRING , AS YOU KNOW A 70 CHARGER DOES NOT REVERSE POLARITY TO OPERATE. LARRY

[hotrod98]

Mike,
Thanks for the info. You guys have convinced me to take the time to make the headlamps work on my Daytona clone. I'm still going to do something different on the bird clone though.

[dayclona]

MIKE ,IS THE GM MOTOR COMPATABLE WITH THE STOCK CHARGER WIRING , AS YOU KNOW A 70 CHARGER DOES NOT REVERSE POLARITY TO OPERATE. LARRY

           Larry,
                            The 70 charger motor reverses by power being applied by the dash switch to the down contact inside the headlite motor, there are 2 contacts /plus 2 mechanical override  stops inside the chrysler motor,.................the GM motor operates somewhat the same, ......power is applied, the motor winds,the headlite door opens , hits an external stop, the "screw" assy. inside the motor binds, causing the wormgear assy to shift, this now locks the motor, and now opens the up contact motor points, breaking this circut,but now closing the down contact points ,they wait until a signal ( the switch in off position) to now close the headlite door, .........so yes , it is compatible in any cars system, just take the time to wire it correctly, and build a sound mechanical/ electrical system..............................I'll try to have G-series(Gary) post some pics as I'm a computer "dummie" and can't do that!




Mike G./ DAYCLONA

[Daytona313]

Mike,
You can e-mail the pictures to me at djblank@tds.net and I can post them. I would love to be able to use left over parts from my old Firebirds on my Daytona Clone project!

[chargervert]

Hey Mike,I think these guys are gettin it!!!!!!! Headlights are not a luxury!!!!! Hot Rod I know you guys think I'm trying to break your asses,but I'm just trying to help you build better cars! And you guys are building better cars!

[nascarxx29]

The headlight systems on the wingcars has been a problem since day one.Creeping up  battery acid eating past battery tray and taking out the vacuum reserve can etc of many sources of vacuum leaks.And now daytonalo is working on retro fitting A easier to obtain 68-69 GTO vacuum actuator.And abandoned the electric set up.So Its up to ones own individual idea what work will best for you this day.This is dont recommend from old school tech retro fitting.Back in the day I had a superbird in the 80-s with this set up-.It had the 2 end pivot shaft ends.Connected by a pipe.With a vertical mounted welded metal tab in the center.With bell cranks and threaded rod.Going to a center mounted 1/4 glass power window and its regulator mounted in the nose .With the adjustable rod attached to the side of the regulator with adjustable mechanical limiting stop bolts.Which at the time worked.And had some other ideas  But didnt try them out.As the headlights are always going to up from the spring tension anyhow.Why not have them lock down under a electromagnet. With a on /off switch on and headlight doors lightly pushed on to engage.In comparision to a line lock.And release power to open doors .Or a cable release mechanism.To release the headlight doors under the springs hold.

Or this high tech piece with self fabricated adjusted mechanical limiting stops

http://www.route66supply.com/store/page26.html

http://www.firgelliauto.com/

[Bradster]

Don't suppose due the length of time that has past that someone may have a bit more information about the headlight motor fabrication.  Basically what I'm looking for is what worked well for you, and some guidance with a few pictures. Basically a "How to" rig me some lights guide! (Without duct tape).

[rob-dirt]

lots of good ideas here make a aftermarket kit of what works with gm , dodge ,electric  motor,s  just something that go,s up and down I'm not building a show car let me know how much ?  let me know PM me here with a cost if it work,s for you its good for me 

[A383Wing]

I just went with the stock vacuum set-up --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cejlMddOoWs

[hotrod98]

I just went with the stock vacuum set-up --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cejlMddOoWs

The only way to fly. Vacuum all of the way.
The headlamps on my bird are vacuum operated but are connected by a 70 Charger rod so that they go up and down in synch. Tom's idea. I'm not that smart. 

[Dave Kanofsky]

The headlamps on my bird are vacuum operated but are connected by a 70 Charger rod so that they go up and down in synch. Tom's idea.

That is a clever idea...I like it!

[moparstuart]

Don't suppose due the length of time that has past that someone may have a bit more information about the headlight motor fabrication.  Basically what I'm looking for is what worked well for you, and some guidance with a few pictures. Basically a "How to" rig me some lights guide! (Without duct tape).

stick with the factory set up and just used vaccuum

[hotrod98]

The headlamps on my bird are vacuum operated but are connected by a 70 Charger rod so that they go up and down in synch. Tom's idea.

That is a clever idea...I like it!

I agree. It's a great idea and seems to work just fine. There might be a downside somewhere but I haven't seen it. Tom's a pretty clever guy.
I'm just glad he allowed me to be the next caretaker of his car. To me it will always be Tom's Black Ice bird.

[RTDaddy]

I used the headlight door motor from a 91 Chrysler Le Baron.  Cut the motor mounting bracket out of it and glassed it into the Daytona nose.  Then used some of the Le Baron set-up, (put the brackets the rod uses to lift the doorsonto the Daytona pods).  Fabricated a lever arm to fit the square drive rod, and this actuates a limit switch up and down to stop the drive motor.  Used a 3 position switch under the dash to raise/lower th epods, (the re-pop relays were not available back then).  The final touch is to put another lever on the square drive rod, with a heavy spring that is trying to pop the pods up.  This will reduce the load on the headlight door motor.  This set-up has worked well since '02.  Just my 

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH.'