440 fuel pump install question

[sgt72charger]

Do I need to remove the threaded insert underneath where the mechanical fuel pump goes in order to install it?
the actual portion that goes into the block will not sit correctly is there a trick.  sorry for the dumb question im new to mechanical fuel pumps



also can i just route a rubber line from the pump to the carb or does it need to be a hard line ?
heat is the issue i assume ?

[Hard Charger]

you may need to remove the plug underneath the pump however try gently grabbing the rod with a some pliers. Push it back up into the block and if your lucky it will stay up until you pop the new fuel pump in. This actuator rod pushes against the pump lever.
otherwise you will need to take the plug out and push the rod up with a punch.

[cudaken]

Sargent, are we talking BB or SB? My self I am a BB guy.

Couple of tricks.

First make sure the fuel pump cam drive loop is not contacting the drive rod. After the pump is off see how much play the rod has. Then bump the starter and check again. Try to install the pump and keep going till you get it in.

Second, if the rod keeps sliding down and in the way. Dab some wheel bearing grease on the rod and then shove it back up and have at it again.

Third, if it is getting to be a real pain in the ass, pull the alternator. On a BB you have easy access and room to work. I replaced mine on the 68 Road Runner this summer and with the alternator off I did it in 10 minutes. I was replacing the alternator anyway.

I have never had to pull the drive rod. I don't even think I could pull the rod with out pulling the cam?  How would it clear the cam shaft?

Cuda Ken XVIII Air Born retired.     

[sgt72charger]

yes 440 big block.

ill give that a shot

also can i just route a rubber line from the pump to the carb or does it need to be a hard line ?
heat is the issue i assume ?

[Back N Black]

If you are replacing the pump, you should pull the fuel pump push rod and check for wear. The rod should be 3.25 inches.

[sgt72charger]

If you are replacing the pump, you should pull the fuel pump push rod and check for wear. The rod should be 3.25 inches.

how do i do this?

[Hard Charger]

yes 440 big block.

ill give that a shot

also can i just route a rubber line from the pump to the carb or does it need to be a hard line ?
heat is the issue i assume ?



Rubber line will work. I believe my filter has rubber pieces going into the metal hardlines. it is in tight quarters coming up from the pump into the carburetor going past moving parts, I think I would stay with the prebent hardline. Probably safer also.

my engine had 80K miles and the shaft was in good shape. I was able to just push the actuator rod up fairly easy to slide the pump in. I did not need to use heavy grease to hold the shaft in place. Even if it is scored a little all it does is push, as long as it doesn't,t break your ok until you feel like a rebuild in the future. if you cannot get it back into the block there must be another bigger problem.

Google the installation of the fuel pump in a 383 or 440 Chrysler and you will see a you tube video on the procedure. Probably find something on replacing the shaft also.

[myk]

May not be correct but it worked for me: fit the pump lever under the push rod just slightly, and then begin to torque down the bolts that hold the pump to the block.  The act of moving the pump closer and tighter to the block will coincidentally move the push rod and the fuel pump lever to where they're supposed to be...

[sgt72charger]

May not be correct but it worked for me: fit the pump lever under the push rod just slightly, and then begin to torque down the bolts that hold the pump to the block.  The act of moving the pump closer and tighter to the block will coincidentally move the push rod and the fuel pump lever to where they're supposed to be...

this is what i was doing originally but it just did not feel right .  thought i might break some thing so i just stopped and here i am..

[hemi68charger]

I have seen, that if you put some grease on the push rod, it has a tendency to hold it up long enough to get the fuel pump arm under it. Once it is under the pushrod, you should be good to go. The pump may be tilted slightly in order to accommodate the alignment of the first fuel pump attach bolt. Once it is started, then you can rotated the pump so the other hole lines up. At that point, you can insert the second bolt and continue to torque it down to spec. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean. I would put some form-a-gasket or something on the gasket to hold it in place. You don't want to be messing around trying to align the pump, gasket, bolt and hole in block and have a gasket with messy sealant all over it. The alternative is to install the gasket dry. That way you can move the gasket around to align things without messing with the "mess".......

[cdr]

it is also much easier when you do get the push rod up,have someone bump the starter to get the rod all the way up so you are not fighting the pump spring as much.

[cudaken]

Sargent, sorry I forgot to address the fuel line part. My self I use rubber lines. Far as I am concern just as safe as steel as long some dork does not hack into it. Steel will last longer but rubber does not rust. Plus rubber cannot hit the hot wire of the alternator and BBQ the wiring harness! Ask me how I know this! 

Cuda Ken

[Sublime/Sixpack]

If you are replacing the pump, you should pull the fuel pump push rod and check for wear. The rod should be 3.25 inches.

how do i do this?

There's a threaded plug in the block right under where the mechanical fuel pump goes. With the fuel pump removed, and this threaded plug removed from the block, the pump rod can be removed through this opening.

[cudaken]

 Did you get the new pump in?

Cuda Ken

[Bob]

May not be correct but it worked for me: fit the pump lever under the push rod just slightly, and then begin to torque down the bolts that hold the pump to the block.  The act of moving the pump closer and tighter to the block will coincidentally move the push rod and the fuel pump lever to where they're supposed to be...

[sgt72charger]

yes i finnaly got it installed. This cold weather in Newyork sucks i bought a new heater for my detached 2 car garage but it still only keeps it like 50 degrees and that if you are near it haha.


so i guess the push rod shaft was all the way down and did not relize that . so with my finger i was able to push it back up in to the motor and wiggle the pump in to place.   now i have to figure out the routing of the fuel i have no lines and no idea except for what i was told and have reseached.