Hole in my block.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Believing the rear crankseal was leaking I pulled the engine again just to discover that the source of the leak was a hole/crack in the block 

How do I fix this? I'm so tired of all problems I experienced with this car. 

Per

[1974dodgecharger]

cant be tired come on now this hobby is never ending for us 

maybe JB weld it for a band aid?

Nice heads you have I have the same set.

[charger Downunder]

Man you have had some bad luck. Could you drill it through and core it, a crack will only get bigger you have to do something.

Have a look at this link
http://www.locknstitch.com/Default.htm

[myk]

I'd figure a crack anywhere on a block is fatal; I know I wouldn't trust it...

[garner7555]

I have taken a modern ford 4.6L that had been ripped loose from the transmission and welded the sections of the block black in where the bell housing bolts where.  Seemed to be fine. Engine ran the same afterward and it had ripped out large 3" peices of the block.      

[Cooter]

Machine shop didn't magnaflux block???

[Belgium R/T -68]

Machine shop didn't magnaflux block???

Propably not, now I don't know how big the crack is. If I seal it from the outside maybe it keeps on cracking?

Per

[cdr]

you need to get an oil pump priming tool & spin the pump to confirm it is leaking there,i looked a my block on the engine stand & i dont see any oil passages in the area you showed,if it was cracked there it would  leak water? unless the crack goes into the lifter galley & that would be very strange to crack there  i could be wrong .

[Belgium R/T -68]

you need to get an oil pump priming tool & spin the pump to confirm it is leaking there,i looked a my block on the engine stand & i dont see any oil passages in the area you showed,if it was cracked there it would  leak water?   i could be wrong .

The area was oily, also down towards the starter. The sympthoms has been oil on starterengine dripping down on headers, approx a coffiespoon after 10 minutes driving in warm condition. My first thought was rear crankseal, converter spreading the oil to the side but the area around the crankseal is dry.

Per

[cdr]

clean that corner & look at it with a magnifying glass,i bet your oil leak it something else.

[cdr]

i just looked at my block again,i dont see any way for it to leak oil in that spot. gotta be valve cover or the valley pan.

[Belgium R/T -68]

I just checked with a UV lamp and no traces of oil coming from the valleypan or valvecovers, I did felt with my fingers after each testdrive there and didn't have any oil on the fingers; In the past I had leaks from the oilpressuresensors looking like a rear sealingleak but also there it has Always been dry.

Per

[ws23rt]

I had a casting flaw on the side of a 440 block that was leaking coolant. Drilled and tapped for a small npt plug to fix it.

If you find your leak to be a flaw like I found on mine that may be a good fix. Also if it is a casting flaw the likely hood of it being a crack is low.

[ACUDANUT]

I doubt too, that you have a crack there also.

[moparsr2fast]

Possibly the oil sending unit, or the pipe plug next to it?

[A383Wing]

Possibly the oil sending unit, or the pipe plug next to it?

I was thinking that also

[Belgium R/T -68]

The valleypan seems to be the only other place although I checked it with my finger after each testdrive but how can it leak so much from that corner head/block since there is no really oilpressure there?

Per

[firefighter3931]

That's a very odd spot to have an oil pressure leak. As previously mentioned ; remove the distributor + oil pump drive and use a priming rod with the reverse drill and pressurize the oil sytem to see if you can find where the leak is coming from. I would be surprised to see it coming from that location.


Ron

[b5blue]

It can and will, I've had oil even work up through the bolt threads on the intake. The engine is designed so inside oil is flying everywhere all over the place like an oily whirl wind.  

[Belgium R/T -68]

Redid the valleypan since that's the only option I can think of, pressurizing didn't give anything most likely because the oil isn't hot.

Per

[charger Downunder]

You must be good at taking the engine out and dropping it back in by now, lets hope all is good.

[b5blue]

Are you sealing the pan 100%? Give details of how you are installing it. Gaskets above and below the intake ports on the pan? LOTS of sealant on the oil dams and corners where it meets the head/block front and back of engine? Thread sealant on intake bolts? 
  I'd grind/clean the suspect spot in the casting some and epoxy smooth with J-B Weld. Scuff up it some then touch up the paint. (That way it would leave "witness marks" if it was leaking still.)

[A383Wing]

I don't see any sealant under the valley pan or where head meets block

[ACUDANUT]

Yes, you need RTV sealant on both sides of that Valley pan. All around 360 degree.

[A383Wing]

Looking at that first pic, I bet oil was coming from under the valley pan at corner of head & block...the head gasket does not go all the way up to edge

[polywideblock]

is there a preferred brand of rtv e.g. pematex copper

[A383Wing]

is there a preferred brand of rtv e.g. pematex copper

I have had the best luck with brand called "Right Stuff"....you must make sure surfaces are extremely clean & dry before applying the sealant.

Bryan

[Belgium R/T -68]

You must be good at taking the engine out and dropping it back in by now, lets hope all is good.

Indeed, third time now on 300 miles. 

Per

[Belgium R/T -68]

Are you sealing the pan 100%? Give details of how you are installing it. Gaskets above and below the intake ports on the pan? LOTS of sealant on the oil dams and corners where it meets the head/block front and back of engine? Thread sealant on intake bolts? 
  I'd grind/clean the suspect spot in the casting some and epoxy smooth with J-B Weld. Scuff up it some then touch up the paint. (That way it would leave "witness marks" if it was leaking still.)

After second rebuild I had a collapsed lifter so I lifted the intake and installed new lifters. I used gaskets on both sides of the valleypan and sealed all around with a whiteish product from Edelbroeck. This time I'm using black RTV all around and threadsealer for all bolts.

Per

[b5blue]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

[Belgium R/T -68]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

[A383Wing]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

[ACUDANUT]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

x2

[b5blue]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

That was your leak Per! 

[b5blue]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

Intake gaskets come in several thicknesses, the reason is to account for variance from build to build. Heads cut or surfaced, deck milled and head gasket thickness all change the tolerance between the intake and head. Larry Shepard's book covers how to set the Intake and Heads for mock up so feeler gauges can be used to dial in intake gasket thickness. I always use 4 gaskets. 
  I've seen much debate about it.....whatever works for you is good by me!  Gasgacinch is about like contact cement/glue, much too thin. 

[ACUDANUT]

Permatex is a great brand here in the USA.

[A383Wing]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

that's why you use the silicone style sealant between the valley pan & block and at corners of the block rail ends

[Belgium R/T -68]

Installed engine again after installing new valleypan with lots of sealer, after first testdrive still no leaks. 

Per

[ACUDANUT]

 

[b5blue]

Happy new year Per! 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Happy new year Per! 

Same to you my friend 

Per

[Charger-Bodie]

Happy new year Per! 

Same to you my friend 

Per

I hope things continue to go positive for you Per.