MIG welding gas questions?

[b5blue]

  I'm thinking of getting a MIG welder and wondering about the gas aspect of this setup. The tank and gas, are extra lines needed? What size tank and how much all that costs?
  I like Eastwood's 135 unit, for the money it gets good reviews. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-135-amp-Mig-Welder-Cart-Helmet-Welding-Kit-/231084572166?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item35cdb6be06&vxp=mtr

[Troy]

Depends on which welder you buy. Most Mig setups come in 2 versions: "gas ready" or not. The basic models can only be run with "flux core" welding wire and doesn't need any gas or accessories. These usually leave sloppy welds but are useful for lawn equipment or anything you have to weld outside with lots of contaminants. Stepping up to the gas ready version will get you a gas regulator, hoses, and both types of wire. All you should need is a tank of gas. There are different types of gas. For car stuff you should probably use an Argon mix. I get mine from the local welding supply store but you can also get it at Tractor Supply and other places like that.

The Eastwood welders have some pretty good reviews and are very nicely priced. If you watch the sales they'll do a free shipping code every so often (EDIT: I see that auction includes free shipping). For the "home hobbyist" I don't know why you'd need anything more. If you plan to weld anything much thicker than sheet metal OR want to try to weld up a racing roll cage in one sitting you'll want something with more power and a better duty cycle (meaning you can run it longer and more often without cooking it). Eastwood sells more powerful units as well but anyone looking to get into serious work is *probably* better off with one of the bigger name brands. Mainly because you can buy consumables and replacement parts locally.

Troy

[b5blue]

Thanks Troy, I'm wanting to do the Chargers foot wells mostly right now. Any Idea what a tank size I should look at and a ballpark price? 

[NHCharger]

Here's a couple of pics of my Hobart 140 mig. Love it. It's made by Miller but without some of the bells and whistles. The initial cost of the tank was $125.00. Now it's just to cost of gas when I swap out an empty tank. From the pics on the web site it looks like all you need is the tank of gas and your ready to rock.

[Troy]

Just get one of the little tanks like the one above. Once you get comfortable and know you'll be using the welder a lot then you can get the full size tank and the big roll of wire. On the wire, I use .020 for sheet metal based on recommendations from others so that might be something to purchase sooner rather than later. Sheet metal is super easy to distort. However, floor pans are a great place to start since you should be plug welding into a thick piece (frame usually) for the bulk of it instead of trying to butt weld.

Troy

[Todd Wilson]

I have the Hobart 135 with a bottle about twice the size in that picture and its lasted for a long time.

I would check on the consumables on that Eastwood welder before I buy it. Does it use special tips and stuff that can only be ordered from eastwood or does it use normal tips that Lincoln and Hobart/Miller use and you can go to the farm store and get? Sometimes those off brand welders are great in the beginning but with use they will need some small items that cant be found or they need to be special ordered. Also the tip on the odd ball units can stay electrically hot even just laying there waiting.   I would get a name brand unit.


Todd

[b5blue]

Thanks for all the input!  More to consider.....

[Troy]

Do a Google search. All of Todd's points have been covered in some really good welding forums. Most of the "professionals" will recommend a different brand and, likely, a model way more capable than any home hobbyist needs. Pay close attention to the guys who are using it in the same manner that you are. I predict you'll find about 95%+ are happy with the Eastwood. There have been some reports of DOA units out of the box that had to be shipped back under warranty. Eastwood's warranty is great on most all of their products but shipping heavy stuff (and waiting) is never fun. I want to say they used a standard gun that takes Miller/Hobart tips. The gun liner may interchange as well. Hopefully you aren't breaking anything else!

I currently use a "borrowed"ancient Hobart 125 that many people predicted couldn't do the job. I had to replace a few parts to get it working correctly and it's not the most precise tool on the planet but I've pretty much completely welded my Challenger together with it. I go slow and have never managed to go beyond it's incredibly short duty cycle. If a 15 year old, used and abused relic can do it then practically anything new should be fine. Would I rather have a 220 volt Miller with Autoset? Yeah, but I wasn't prepared to take that big of a hit to the wallet when I got this.

Troy

[b5blue]

I hear ya! The warranty is 3 years on the welder, no 220 near the carport so not an option unless I spent more money. (I can do the install.) I do have an "Ace welder" not too far from me but I'm not certain he'd want to do the work I want. He mostly builds high end custom bikes and the like. Ive seen his work and it's fantastic! If he can do "Tins" and repair/customize even aluminum parts floorboard patches are nothing. That's why I'm trying to come up with a total cost outlay as that really are my only 2 options. I made calls a year ago and shops are spooked way from any rust repairs even though mine are fairly simple. The rust is limited to the foot well flats from years of carpet soaked by leaks at the windshield and quarter windows seeping. Had I realized what had been happening under the new carpet I'd have ripped it out 18 years ago. I have enough budgeted to cover the welder, gloves, helmet and the extras like tank/gas/spool wire/tips and so on.
  Thanks guys!     

[Todd Wilson]

Don't get a cheap helmet!  Auto Darkening is the only way to go if you are doing body work!

Todd

[sanders7981]

I went with Eastwood 135 MIG when it was on sale.  Gets the job done for auto body welding.  I have had no problems with it and have had it about 3 years.  I have used it quite a bit and just rent the tank from the welding store... It's like $40 a month for the large tank and $25 to fill it. 

[b5blue]

Thanks again guys, I really wanted Auto Dark for the helmet after just a few minutes of playing with a flux core welder last year!  It's good to hear from someone who actually owns one and likes it! 

[green69rt]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,102370.msg1211149.html#msg1211149

[Troy]

Um, yeah, get a good helmet! I have a Speedglass. Not cheap but I like to see. I accidentally "flashed" myself a few times when I first started and it is not good! So, make sure your helmet is on and pulled down too...

I paid a one-time fee for the tank and then I just pay for the refills. I wouldn't rent one as slow as I am!

I also got a nice set of gloves, a helmet liner/beanie thing, and a welding jacket. The jacket I almost never use now but the beanie keeps your hair from singing when the helmet is pulled down (think about welding inside the trunk and having the sparks fly up and bounce off the structure above you). Good, thick gloves are a must because you usually have one hand resting on the piece you're welding and it heats up fast!

As far as safety goes, you can get a sunburn from the arc so cover all your skin. I also *usually* wear steel toed boots. I've had globs of metal burn right through the tops of my sneaker before and dancing around the shop trying to remove molten metal from between your toes in full welding gear is highly entertaining!

I have local shops that I can pay for small jobs but I reserve that for making fixtures or welding the heavy stuff that my welder can't. Most places who do custom work don't seem to want to take on side projects. Places who do "general" welding are used to working with heavy material and will, more than likely, make a mess of thin sheet metal. When working on car bodies you can't manhandle it - you almost have to be an artist and "shape" the metal. You can't just slap it together, add a few tacks and then hammer it into submission.

Troy

[Hard Charger]

I have the same Hobart 140 that is pictured. $475 free shipping from Northern Tool. $50 cart from Harbor freight. $125 for a larger tank with gas mix and I own it. $99 auto hood.
was told all guns on name brand units are Miller made. (quality)

The Eastwood unit looks very similar to the Hobart. I would have liked more heat settings as I am a novice welder at best.

A 135 should do the job nicely but get a good hood with a large window.

being an occasional user I think I would look at the newer units that have automatic heat control. it can be months between use and you need to relearn the feel of the machine.

just some thoughts

[skip68]

I used to have a Lincoln wirefeed and changed to the Miller a couple years ago.   I think the Miller is a better machine and love it.  I don't have the automatic heat adjust and am curious how good they work.     That Eastwood looks like a good machine for the money.