How should i fix this damage?

[Lord Warlock]

Trying to figure out how to fix this, its right on a bend which makes it difficult to pull out.  Its one of the last parts of the body I still have to fix.  The damage forces the edge to seperate from the corner, which is in good condition and solid still, I don't want to cut the corner off and cannot cut the entire valence off just to fix this one spot.  What i had intended to do was to use vise grips to hold the lower valence pieces together, then weld them together to keep it from pulling the panel apart.  But I'd like to actually fix the panel itself if possible.  What needs to be done?

I can heat up the panel with a torch, get it red hot then attempt to hammer it back into shape,  or i can use a stud puller and a slide hammer to attempt to pull the piece back into position, should i weld the stud on first, then heat the panel to soften it? I'd think the stud would come off if i heated the panel hot enough to make it workable.  The car isn't currently movable, so the repair would have to be done in the place it sits, i can make about 3 feet of clearance behind the bumper to give me working room, but also don't want to be laying underneath it while dealing with hot metal. 

The damaged area is actually hidden behind the rear bumper when the bumper is installed, the lower valence would need to be matched up and tacked together. 

[sanders7981]

I don't know if a stud welder and puller would take care of that.  You could work on it for hours trying to get it right, and still have to use body filler to smooth it all out.  I would cut that piece out and fabricate a new piece to fit there, or try to find a used one to salvage from.  It would take a little bit of measuring and mig welding, but it's probably less work then using studs and a puller.

[Lord Warlock]

Thats why i brought up heating it up and hammering it out, the stud welder just isn't that good at pulling small tight stuff out, its fine on dings and dents, but this one stumps me.  I'm not good enough with a welder to feel comfy cutting out a section and welding in a new patch there, I did however cut and weld in a piece on the right rear quarter and around the window ledge.  The edge of the corner is an easy fix with a small amount of filler and elbow grease, but the crimped part is on the edge is what concerns me most.  The panel below it should straighten out easy enough if the bottom edge is secured, the stud puller should bring it back out, but not if the bottom edge is loose.  

I don't like filler if i can avoid it, right now the body has no filler except along the weld line of the rear quarter, and that was only a skim coat.  I could easily use leftover sheetmetal from the patch panel to use if i have to, but seeing as that area is in plain view i'd prefer to avoid welding much there.  Wish i'd paid more attention to the welders when i was 20 working offshore oil rigs, they didn't use wire welders there though, they used big honkin lincoln welding machines and welding rods, and could do some amazing pipe welds.  This wire fed welder is a different animal than those. 

[sanders7981]

I am no expert welder, but I'd feel more comfortable cutting it out and welding in a new piece.  I did that for the front window channel that was rusted out.  I cut out templates, then tacked them into the existing structure.  I see them do it all  the time on the Power Block on spike tv.  Check youtube for some vids.  There may be some on there that can get you started.  I get what your saying about the stud welder, but I could see a lot of pulling and hammering trying to get it right, which could result in more little dings that may not come out. 

[Dino]

Remove all paint and rust so both the valance and corner cap are bare metal.  Don't forget the inside edge.  Since the valance is detached, you will be able to stick a crow bar type in there to push most of the dent out.  You need that crease gone before you can use a slide hammer but when you get to that point where a slide hammer will work, then weld the panel back to the corner cap.  I know it's real hard to do so you may want to go for option #2:  body panel adhesive.

You can use vise grips to temporarily hold the parts together if you want, nothing wrong with that.  Do not, however grab a torch and hope to save the panel.  The heat will stretch the metal so hard that you will likely never get it in shape again.

If that is just too much then take a fine cutting blade and cut right across the top bend of the valance panel, where the crease is.  Now you will be able to get the dent out and as soon as the metal is straight you can weld the cut you made.

[Lord Warlock]

appreciate the advice,  I'll try getting a crow bar or large screwdriver up to that position and work it out, if that doesn't work, I will cut it with a cutting wheel, pull it back into position, then weld in a new piece.  Its bound to be easier than doing the quarter panel fix which was fairly involved, especially since i didn't do a butt weld or flange it before i welded the new panel on. 

[bill440rt]

This might be a tough fix for the do-it-yourself at home body repair. Trouble is, it's a strong area since it's on a corner. Like others have said, a stud gun might not work because of the ridge area on the lower valence.
You may want to consider bringing it to a local body shop in this case. Looks like they may need to weld a tab on for something to clamp on to, then make a light pull to get it back to shape. They can work the corner cap at the same time.
Once done, you can do the finish work at home.
I feel it's repairable. You wouldn't have to cut anything apart either opening up another can of worms down the road.
Just something to consider...

[cudaken]

This might be a tough fix for the do-it-yourself at home body repair. Trouble is, it's a strong area since it's on a corner. Like others have said, a stud gun might not work because of the ridge area on the lower valence.
You may want to consider bringing it to a local body shop in this case. Looks like they may need to weld a tab on for something to clamp on to, then make a light pull to get it back to shape. They can work the corner cap at the same time.
Once done, you can do the finish work at home.
I feel it's repairable. You wouldn't have to cut anything apart either opening up another can of worms down the road.
Just something to consider...

Bill just about took the words off my keyboard. If, you brought the car to me and the valances was solid. I would drill out the spot welds and take it off the car, then work the metal. Get it close, sandblast and under coat then weld it back on and do the mud work.

Biggest problem rather pulling or working with a hammer and dolly the bottom is going to flex, it needs to be ridged to get the metal sort of straight.

Cuda Ken

[Lord Warlock]

I'll admit its a tough fix, which is why i left it for last.  The rear lower quarters under the bend below the r/t in the stripe, both needed work, fixed one side with a patch panel, other side (side where damage is on valence) was still solid but had a few pinholes, fixed those and didn't patch that side.  Rear valence is sold all the way across, Even the back up light holes are whole and solid still.  The trunk floor on the other hand needs to have the center section cut out and replaced.  Ribs above gas tank are rusted out where there are small holes, one large hole (fist sized) to the right of the spare tire holder.  Had issues along back window and sail panel when i bought the car, it had been filled with lead at one point but still leaked to trunk and where water ran down the curve it rusted that part of the floor.  I cut out the window sill and sail panel issues, and put in new metal there.  The sides of the trunk actually feel very solid, center will hold me up if i stand on it

Unfortunately, the car isn't drivable yet, so can't take it to a shop, its in the backyard garage so can't just have it dragged on a flatbed, would have to get it out front for them to get it loaded.  Rear drum brake is stuck now so trying to work that out now, but getting inputs for the body panel since its on the list of things to do soon.

Optimally, i'd prefer someone remove the valence and replace the trunk at the same time, not currently flush with cash so have to look at other options, I have the time to work on it, and have most of the tools to do alot of the work myself if I have to.  Drilling out the rear valence is slightly out of my league, so I'm trying to figure out what i can do now, later if i have to I'll take it to a shop to do the trunk floor, could just tell them to do the valence at the same time.

One priority at a time just working thru the list of items.

[Dino]

Having to do the trunk as well changes the game.  It would be way better to do it all at once.  Drilling out the spot welds for the valance is easier than you might think and it will set the car up to do the trunk at the same time.

[cudaken]

Dino is right, it sounds harder than it is. Pull the bumper and taillights. Buzz the valances to bare metal with 120 grit to hide light the spot welds. Use a drill with a cord (take a real good battery power drill and spare pack other wise) and get good spot weld beaker bites. Depending on the quality of the bites should take you hour and a half to 3 hours.

You have to be all thumbs to mess it up, 95% of the spot welds are hidden behind the bumper. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate it as a 5.

Cuda Ken 

[Patronus]

Me like crow-bar

[six-tee-nine]

It's not that hard to pull the lower valence, however dont think its 2 hour job.

You need to separate the end caps also.
First remove the bumper reinforcement pieces that are welded to the trunk floor and spotwelded onto the valence. If you want to reuse the panel go real slow with the crowbar or else you gonna do alot of hammer and dolly work....

[hemihead]

Please don't be stupid and start heating or welding with the Gas Tank in the car . Unless of course you want your wife to
collect on a big insurance policy . Safety first .

[Lord Warlock]

good advice,  I took the gas tank out this week, so that shouldn't be a problem when i start banging around under there,  i'm more concerned with dirt/bugs falling in my face while under the car.  Cobwebs behind the gas tank were prolific so think i have a bunch of spiders that have taken up residence. 

[six-tee-nine]

Hah spiders, no worries, I had mice in the cowl and frame rails once, I even found old wasp nests in some corners

[Lord Warlock]

I've dug mouse carcasses (skeleton actually) out of mine, entire headliner area was filled with rat crap, no wonder why it stunk like rat all the time.  Glad to have cleaned that out, Dash wiring still seems intact, although a bit old and brittle. 

Went a bit nuts today on the charger, cut the first section of the trunk floor out.  May be some time before i get the new tank installed, going to have to order a replacement floor for the trunk. 

Spiders down here can be worth worrying about, I don't think brown recluce's like  this spot, or i'd worry bore.  Know we have black widows in the area, have seen one on the property before, but usually outside in the garage.  Have a couple monster fat bodied beasts in the rafter peaks,  they keep dropping empty body husks on top of the cars parked out there, almost scared to approach them with a ladder.  Low level spiders are usually just the cobweb spinning types so will clean what i can with a vacuum after i get the rest of the floor section out.