Can I use a common power fuse block?

[Dino]

I would really like to upgrade to something like this:

http://www.optifuse.com/fuseblocks-automotive-fuses-bls-i-310.php

http://www.rselectronics.com/Attachments/PDF/OptiFuse_BLS-I_Series.pdf

If I understand correctly, that one bolt is either bussed power or ground no?

Can this be made to work in my car?  I don't really understand how the stock fuse block wiring goes but I would like to get rid of that old thing.  I could actually make it fit in their an use that bolt to mount it in the stock location, but that's probably not a good idea.   

[A383Wing]

no..that one studded terminal feeds all the fuses.

You will need a fuse block that is separated into 3 groups,

1)constant 12v hot all the time power for some circuits

2) switched "key on" power for things like heater, radio

3) one single circuit for dash light dimming fuse

I had a post here a while back, it may have been in one of your threads about fuse blocks....I modified one that has 7 fuses in it to work in the 66 Charger

Bryan

[bull]

What's your beef with the original style fuse block?

[flyinlow]

I use them in addition to the original. I cleaned up the original.  Added a always hot block by the charging post where the battery was. ( headlight, fan relays) An always hot block in the trunk next to where the battery is now. ( taillight relays, stop/turn signal relays, power seats, alarm, trunk lights ). An accessory block under the dash to feed sound system, extra gauges, OD/ lock-up solenoids, etc.)

[Dino]

What's your beef with the original style fuse block?

No real beef but it needs to be cleaned up and with all the accessories I am adding, it would not be a luxury to upgrade.  That said, the stock box will work so I'm going to wait until the rest of the mods are in place and the glove box liner goes in so I can find something to fit without too much mods.  Or I may just do as Flyinlow did and get an auxiliary box.  I do get a bit nervous when I think of the entire car being protected by 6 fuses.  One day a fuse went and I was not only without dash lights but the tail lights were gone as well, luckily I had a spare glass fuse in the car or I would've been toast as it was 5 am in November when it happened!

[flyinlow]

Depending on how much accessory load you will be adding you can tap off the accessory blade on the fuse block for power or use it to control a relay to feed an accessory block.

Both of my hot blocks are feed with a  short double insulated wire. .  The front one is not  fused, but is only 3 inches long. This one feeds the headlight relays.

Two fuses and two relays power the two low beams. Two more fuses and relays power the high beams. Outboard set and inboard set. A momentary push to flash switch near the shifter triggers the hi beam relays also.

No single loss of fuse, relay, or headlight/ dimmer switch can leave me in the dark.