67 Charger Brake Bleeding Issues

[gibber]

The only thing between me and the road on my 3 plus year 67 Charger resto project is bleeding the brakes. I had an original style master cylinder rebuilt by a reputable shop, but can't seem to get any fluid to come out when I crack the lines coming out of the MC and have my helper push the pedal down. I did not bench bleed it, so trying to avoid pulling it out of the car if at all possible...

Thanks for any advice...

Mark

[ODZKing]

If you search YouTube there are several videos on how to bleed the red.
The one thing I would have done is go to dot5 but if you've already filled it, its too late.
Gotta do that from the start.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

I think you're going to have a really hard time bleeding the lines in the whole car if you don't bench bleed the master cylinder first. You can bleed the master on the car but it might get a little messy. Make sure you protect your paint work from any brake fluid that gets splashed around. To bleed the master cylinder run a short piece of steel brake line tubing from each of the master cylinder ports back into it's respective reservoir. You will likely need two 7/16" to 3/8" adaptors to fit standard 3/16" tubing into the master cylinder ports. When you see the fluid stream is free of air bubbles when you push down on the brake pedal the master cylinder is bled. You can then hook up your regular brake lines.

[gibber]

I bought a MC bench bleeding kit with those adapters, will be bench bleeding it this weekend...thanks...

Mark

[Pete in NH]

Hi Mark,

I think you will find that bleeder kit will make things a lot easier. One trick I've used once the master cylinder is all set is to gravity bleed the rest of the system. It works great as long as the master cylinder is the highest point in the system. Start in the right rear open the bleed screw and use a piece of plastic tubing over the bleed screw to direct the fluid down into a jar. The cover needs to be off the master cylinder. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it run out. When you get a steady drip going let it drip a while, close the bleed screw and move on to the left rear wheel. Then to the right front and left front last. At this point you may have a nice firm pedal or have to follow up with conventional bleeding. Even if you do have to use a conventional bleeding method to finish up you will get almost all the air out and the system filled by gravity and you didn't have to do very much work at all. Gravity bleeding is actually a form of pressure bleeding, it just uses 14 pounds per square inch ( gravity) instead of 20 to 30 pounds.

[gibber]

Pete,

Thanks for the advice, brakes bled by gravity and I also used the conventional method afterward, but no change. Thanks again for the great advice...

Mark

[Pete in NH]

Mark,

I'm not sure what your saying when you say you bled the brake system but still have the original problem. Did you get fluid out of the bleeder screws at all four wheels? Is it that you don't have any brakes? Also, is this an all drum system or do you have discs in the front? A good description of the problem would help