Wiring harness

[twodko]

Looks like I need to replaced the head lights wiring harness on my 69. Who makes the best product.

[Ghoste]

M&H.  You'll likely have to order through Year One altyhough I understand Classic may be selling them now too.

[twodko]

Thanks Ghoste, I just looked at a harness on Classic's website but I need to call them to verify it's the one I need.

[Mopar Nut]

M&H.  You'll likely have to order through Year One altyhough I understand Classic may be selling them now too.

YearOne has a 30% off sale until Monday night.

Code HARV13

[twodko]

I'll check that out but wonder if YO's obscene shipping cost negates the discount?

[twodko]

Classic Industries same same. Just ordered it today.......harness + tax + shipping = $250! Yeow!

[Mopar Nut]

Classic Industries same same. Just ordered it today.......harness + tax + shipping = $250! Yeow!

Wow, that's high. Is this the same item you needed?
Item - HU25B
Retail$ 204.99 with 30% savings($61.50)Sub Total $143.49 Tax$0.00 Shipping & Handling $18.08 Your Total $161.57

[Ghoste]

I found Classic to be on the high side too with some stuff I ordered this summer.

[twodko]

Thus us the harness: Product #: MD2481

I'm a Republic of Kalibrokia indentured slave, as such I get taxed on everything! Roughly $21.00 sales tax, shipping about the same.

[twodko]

Regarding this upcoming winter project, refresh my memory.......it's been 3 years since I had the grille assembly out.

Only nine bolts hold the grille in place right? 2 on each side of the top plate, two in each fender well and the one bolt that holds the center support bracket to the lower rad frame.

[twodko]

Couple things to report, much of which prior users already know.

I received my new front lights harness from Classic Industries today and it is manufactured by M&H. I didn't know quite what to expect other than a new harness from the rad support forward.....that's all I could discern from the website picture of it. Well guys, this harness runs from the farthest parking light connector all the way up to its shiny new bulkhead connector. I was pretty sure it included the vac lines and the rep I spoke with thought so too........it does and they're cut in length to match the OEM harness which means no guessing which one goes where on the vac pods. The connectors even have a dab of dielectric grease in them.

I had the car out yesterday for fuel, LOF, tire balance and drivers side exhaust "manifold to head" gasket replace. When I got home and pulled the batt quick disconnect I was looking around and realized I can replace the harness without pulling the grille.
I'm very impressed with the quality of this product.

When this project is done the last thing I need to address is loosening up the heater box assembly and get it repositioned so the plenum seal actually seals. When I restored/reinstalled the box using the DMT kit I didn't realize the seal wasn't seated until I drove the car for the first time afterwards. My wife wanted to know why so much air was blowing in? Both vents were closed.......Crap! I'm not looking forward to that little task.

This concludes the sitrep on my new harness.

Over......

[cdr]

.

[twodko]

Crap! I finished up the installation on my new M&H front lights harness today and eagerly fired up the car then hit the HL switch.

Same freakin' issue! HL's come on then off then on then off. The lights are brighter though. Something is still tripping the HL switch's internal breaker. I have no other ideas left except to pull the dash out far enough to see whats what.

I'm spitting bullets.

[Ghoste]

Headlight switch?

[A383Wing]

unplug the headlights and see if it still trips it...maybe a short somewhere? How fast do the headlights go on & off?

I'm thinking headlight switch itself as well

[twodko]

When this dilemma first raised its head after we restored the car, I replaced the HL switch and the dimmer switch.
The initial indication of a problem was an odor driving home from a car show with the HLs on. When I changed the HL switch I noticed the connector was just beginning to melt. It didn't look too bad so I didn't really consider an internal connector lead short but I don't know what else it could be at this point. I have a new HL connector body so fighting all the spade connectors out of the old and into the new is the next step. 

[twodko]

I should also mention that the front lights harness was the only one removed during our resto in order to restore the grille assembly.

[fy469rtse]

You could add relays to headlights, taking the load of switch,
All of us that upgrade our headlights, this is a must do,

[twodko]

I have read many posts regarding relays and much to my embarrassment I have no idea how to wire these up. Where do the relays enter the HL circuit? Where do I buy the relays? Do the relays require their own power source? If I had a specific wiring diagram or picture which  would be much better because I'm visually inclined showing me just how to do it, I'd make that upgrade most riki tik.

[fy469rtse]

Like your about to do, I had to learn also, will do a diagram and post it, but basically how the relays work , you can mount them up front anywhere you like, fused power from battery to relay , relay to head lights, head light switch becomes the trigger to switch relay , head lights on , high load power going straight to your headlights, not going through your switch,

[twodko]

Thank you for that, I was fairly certain the relays required power. Seems straight forward except where you tap into the HL harness to feed the relays. I'm eager to see your schematic/picture.

Tom

[Dino]

Tom, I used this diagram. 

You said you only replaced the front light harness.  Have you checked the wires going into the bulkhead connector?

[Bob T]

Tom, I used this diagram. 

You said you only replaced the front light harness.  Have you checked the wires going into the bulkhead connector?

Good diagram Dino, I used my own similar version to allow for ammeter bypass.
I do agree with looking at the wiring going into the bulkhead connector, some of mine were toasted, I had to make up several looms.
Tom, the B.h. connector can be wriggled in, around diagonally and then out of the B.h after you ping the clips on the sides. Good luck bud, I'm a Sparky and I dislike doing automotive wiring 

[twodko]

Thanks guys! The new front lights harness is complete from the bulkhead (with new multi-pin connector) all the way out to the parking lights.
The M&H harness is a very well made, spot on correct OEM replacement product. Exactly matching the original down to wire color and vac lines. Plugged right in.

Our club is holding a small BBQ Sunday followed by a cruise out to Bodega Bay. Next week I'm pulling the dash out enough to take a close look at things. As I recall the speedo cable is a push-on type. Hopefully I can snake my big hand up in there and pull it off.

SITREP to follow.........unless I get trapped under the dash and can't get out.

[Dino]

When all else checks out, do yourself a favor and check for continuity in the wires, there's not that many anyway.  Even brand new, straight out of the box, a wiring harness can have an issue.  It doesn't happen often but it does happen.

The relay mod is quite easy and doesn't take much work.  Definitely worth the effort.

Bob I got the diagram from the HL relay upgrade thread Ghoste started several years ago.  I always kept it and used it to do my own car.  I have bypassed the ammeter as well and installed a 90 amp alternator.  I have an 80 amp ANL fuse hidden under the battery and run 6 awg cables to feed the lot.  Better safe than sorry!   

Instead of using 2 separate fuses as shown on the diagram, I run a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker.  Main power also goes through the ANL fuse.

[Bob T]

When all else checks out, do yourself a favor and check for continuity in the wires, there's not that many anyway.  Even brand new, straight out of the box, a wiring harness can have an issue.  It doesn't happen often but it does happen.

The relay mod is quite easy and doesn't take much work.  Definitely worth the effort.

Bob I got the diagram from the HL relay upgrade thread Ghoste started several years ago.  I always kept it and used it to do my own car.  I have bypassed the ammeter as well and installed a 90 amp alternator.  I have an 80 amp ANL fuse hidden under the battery and run 6 awg cables to feed the lot.  Better safe than sorry!   

Instead of using 2 separate fuses as shown on the diagram, I run a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker.  Main power also goes through the ANL fuse.

It has been one of the best wiring mods I have done on the car Dino, the relays are hidden under a bracket by the battery tray. I put high output semi sealed lamps in, so I needed to uprate the cabling as well, beats the hell out of the factory candle power lights.
Most importantly Tom, the win  is the fact that the headlight power is routed through the relays instead of the foot switch and factory on/off switch and crusty original wiring

Here's another version of the drawing, the only difference is that it should go via the alt, so the alt is ''looking'' to charge back into the circuit

[fy469rtse]

beat me to ,
thanks guys , like both diagrams,
much better than the hand drawn sketch you were going to get from me lol 
you would never have been able to follow it.

[twodko]

Cheers and beers to all you mugs! Thank you.

Tom