Thinking of buying a '70 Charger project car - what should I look out for/avoid?

[Plasticman]

I'm currently nearing the end of a build (motorcycles) and have been wanting a 1970 Charger for years.  Other than subframe rust, what are areas of a project car of this type I should thoroughly inspect?

I'm not looking for a numbers matching car as if I cannot one with a manual transmission, I plan to convert it to manual (probably a 6 speed).

Rob

[b5blue]

The front "doghouse" is not reproduced so hood/fenders/bumper/grill/headlight door motor are costly. The tail panel trim around the tail lights, it can get costly and just the clips for mounting it cost 159.00 + shipping. The column is first year for ignition switch mounted there. (So the lower trim for dash is different.) The radio is different so the trim panel is. The glove box door is another 1 year part as it swings down not up. The sway bar mounts different so LCA's have mounts in a different position. Any of these parts missing or messed up will cost more and be harder to find in better condition.

[Homerr]

For all second gen Chargers the lower rear window channel rusts out which in turn rusts out the trunk floor, lower quarters, and trunk floor extensions.  Also check for rocker rust, bottom of doors, cowl, and floor foot wells.  If the car has/had a vinyl top then the leading edge and the areas that face the rear window are also susceptible to rust.

In other words, the whole car pretty much rusts out.   

[Baldwinvette77]

if you plan on putting in a 6 speed, im assuming you can weld and fabricate? you will need to cut the floor and crossmember to fit a 6 speed, then make a new crossmember, and transmission tunnel, if you are capable of that, then im sure you can handle rust repair.. In other words there shouldnt be much "to look out for" rust is typical for any 43 year old car, and i cant really think of anything else that would scare someone whos badass enough to do an auto to 6 spd Stick swap..... just try not to get anything bent up AND rusty, or with a completely wasted frame   

[Scaregrabber]

It's the $100 and $200 bits that kill you. Get as complete of a car as you can, try not to buy one with broken grille etc.

Sheldon

[1974dodgecharger]

It's the $100 and $200 bits that kill you. Get as complete of a car as you can, try not to buy one with broken grille etc.

Sheldon

Yup I agree get complete and as much money u can buy.  Don't buy people's rust bucket thinking u will restore because if u do the money always runs out before anything.

[Hard Charger]

buy a car that has been sitting for years. something that has all those bits and pieces and maybe you can get away with cleaning and painting them instead of buying them.
pay more for original family or second owner cars. cars that have original or 1 repaint even if it is worn off. I would rather buy a car that was parked and forgotten than a neglected car.

look for missing parts, parts that do not originally go on that particular car and different color body panels are a sign that it could have had a hard life, hence more work, more parts and possibly fixing other peoples mistakes before you start building your dream car.

buy as much car as your budget will allow. it is cheaper to buyer a incomplete car and make the repairs yourself and seek out missing parts. that can be fun too. a more complete car is less work.

there is nothing wrong with buying a basket case if that is what you can afford. some guys on this forum have done amazing things from humble beginnings and it can be done. as long as you are up to it.

you are not going to end up with a 30K charger by only spending 15K. it usually works out that your 30K charger cost you 34K not the other way around.

I don't golf, fish, hunt or sit at the bar every night, I play with cars knowing maybe I won't get every dollar back. try applying that reasoning to other hobbies and its not so bad.