Has anyone replaced a bulkhead connector?

[Dino]

I'm installing a new one over the weekend, the whole thing.  I already had my instrument cluster out and dropped the column as well.  Anything else I need to remove to get good access or should I be good to go?  Seems to me the wiring loom under the dash is long enough to bring the connector down to the floor boards so I have some space to transfer all the wiring but I'm not sure.  I know the heater/ac box is real close to it but I'm not removing that sucker!

[Ghoste]

I replaced mine and other than the usual contortionist show when working underdash I don't recall any issues.

[Dino]

I replaced mine and other than the usual contortionist show when working underdash I don't recall any issues.

Great!  I have quite the contortionist talent after working on this car so I'll be just fine.    

Thanks Ghoste   

[cdr]

its very easy to pull the front seats,it makes it WAY easier to work under the dash 

[Dino]

its very easy to pull the front seats,it makes it WAY easier to work under the dash 

Good idea!  Yeah just 4 nuts and the whole thing is gone, not sure why I didn't think of that but thanks!   

[MaximRecoil]

Does the new bulkhead connector just come with the plastic housings and loose copper Packard 56 terminals? If so, do you have a proper crimping tool for open-barrel terminals?

[fy469rtse]

I agree , pull front seat at least that side, proper connectors a must, also crimping tool is a must , and have extra terminals is a must, you will make mistakes
take your time and do one at a time,
also die electric grease and insulators that go over terminals before engine bay side harness plugs go on 

[Dino]

You can get the kit in several ways.  You can buy the one that includes the terminals but I just bought all the plastic parts.  All my wiring is done.  I just decided to buy the plastic replacements because mine have holes drilled into them!  I do need to buy two sets of terminals to fix those wires that ran right through it.

[tan top]

remove driver seat as others said  

had taken my original dash harness out a few times , when I first got my charger , ok  coming out with Ac heater box & column in the way , but putting it back , found it bit  difficult pushing & clipping the bulk head connector in to the firewall ,  arms & hands would not bend how you wanted them to bend !!
funny thing is  putting the car together after the resto , with new harnesses , then when deciding to bypass the amp gauge , could not even reach the bulk head connector    , so removed the steering column

[fy469rtse]

 Recommend reviewing threads on here regarding why those terminals points in the bulkhead were damaged Dino,
The way the factory had it, not for long term, inspect terminals once you start, if any sign of corrosion, start replacing them , if you have upgraded charging system you will have to do electrical mod's, factory amp gauge the start of it ,
But in short the inability of those melted or damaged connectors to handle all the cars power going through them ,

[NHCharger]

I had to install a new bulkhead connector on my 68, just finished a few weeks ago. Like yours, someone had drilled out two to the connectors and bypassed the ammeter and wired straight into the wiring harness. Since my 68 is apart it was fairly easy to do. You're right it is easier to wire everything to the bulkhead connector first, then snap the connector into it's spot on the firewall.

[Mopar Nut]

I had to install a new bulkhead connector on my 68, just finished a few weeks ago. Like yours, someone had drilled out two to the connectors and bypassed the ammeter and wired straight into the wiring harness. Since my 68 is apart it was fairly easy to do. You're right it is easier to wire everything to the bulkhead connector first, then snap the connector into it's spot on the firewall.

Mine was like that to when I purchase it.