valley pan question

[tucknroll]

hey guys, I have a hole in the valley pan and I read that I had to remove a head to replace it. is that right? its a 383 if that helps. also, can you patch the hole. its about a finger tip size hole. thanks

[XH29N0G]

I thought the valley pan was just held in by the manifold and then bolted into the block on the front ant back.  No need to remove the head.   I swapped mine out for one with the exhaust crossover blocked at one point and I don't remember it being that big of a deal.

[tucknroll]

I hope youre right. I was just reading what the classic industries book says about new ones. it reads, because this pan fits under intake face edges, at least one cylinder head must be removed in order to install or remove vally pan. I hope i'm missing something.

[b5blue]

Not on a big block. You remove the intake, clean everything up and reinstall with new per FSM.

[tucknroll]

your right! I just got it off and it was a piece of cake! thanks

[XH29N0G]

The next question I would ask (and I do not know the right answer to this) is whether something like a permatex gasket sealant should be used on any of the mating surfaces when putting the next one on. I used it on the front and back surfaces, but not the ones between the head and manifold.

[tucknroll]

im not sure but I guess I need to find out. its going to be here Monday.

[b5blue]

  Kinda a tricky question, some say no, some say yes. I use gaskets above and under the pan held in place to the head and intake with gasket adhesive. The gaskets are available in different thicknesses to adjust for variances like having the heads surfaced or cut when rebuilt or deck height.
  You'll get all manner I did this or that and many ways seem to work for others.   

[tucknroll]

ok last question, do I need the insulation that lays on top of the pan or is it just an option?

[Hard Charger]

I just removed my manifold for sandblasting, first time since the factory.

no gaskets at the heads, no insulation.

i reinstalled the same way.

i got 4 pan gaskets for the heads in my kit but would be concerned with distorting the pan if installed.

[XH29N0G]

ok last question, do I need the insulation that lays on top of the pan or is it just an option?

I don't think I understand.  Do you mean insulation between the valley pan and the bottom of the intake?  I don't recall ever seeing insulation there on mine.  I bought mine from my dad in the early 1980's and it has been running simply with the air space between the intake and Valley pan as far back as I can remember.

 

[A383Wing]

there was insulation between intake & valley pan....most say it was to quiet the noise. Some say it was for heat insulation...most leave it out anyway

[XH29N0G]

I learn something every day.  Thanks

[john108]

I just disassembled a 1976 440 from a Chrysler Imperial, and it did have insulation.  The insulation was in bad shape.

[Dino]

I used permatex ultra copper on both sides of the pan and some more on the rails. no gaskets used on mine but dry fit to see if it lines up okay.  Sometimes you do need to use the gaskets. 

[Nacho-RT74]

it's a sound insulation pad.

actually I think it keeps cooler with that thing out, which becomes your STOCK intake on an air gap piece

[maxwellwedge]

None of the HP engines got the insulation pad.....not during the musclecar years. Maybe the boats got it for noise.

[Troy]

I used permatex ultra copper on both sides of the pan and some more on the rails. no gaskets used on mine but dry fit to see if it lines up okay.  Sometimes you do need to use the gaskets. 

This is what I used. I love that copper stuff!

FYI - there are 2 versions of the valley pan. One has the "heat crossover" blocked off and typically works better for show cars that don't need a choke (the choke still works but takes a while). I'd have to look up the number from Fel-Pro but if you post the number of the one you ordered we can tell you which one it is.

Troy

[tucknroll]

well, its in and I didn't put the insulation back in.

[XH29N0G]

  enjoy!