What headers to buy for a 383 on my 68 charger?

[ChargedNJ]

Hey guys, anyone have a reco for headers on a 68 charger with a 383? I don't have any crazy requirements...just something reasonably priced. Anything would be an upgrade over my rusty stock manifolds.

Cheers!

[Cooter]

Reasonably priced is relative.....
You want em reasonable? Then they most likely won't fit great. You want em to fit and last? TTI.

[cudaken]

 I only installed one set of TTI headers and was impressed.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-IM000066_zpsbd20f227.jpg.html]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-IM000067_zpsb31f7623.jpg.html]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-TT3_zps903ca042.jpg.html]

The pictures where taken during a test fit to see how much room we had to install the starter. Minny starter turned out to be a pain, not because of clearances but having to remove the started stud that was in the 727 and finding the right wrench to tighten down the bolt. Stock stater would have more than likely a snap!

I have all so had very good luck with Hooker Super Comps! I have had a pair on my 68 Road Runner for 27 years! Think I am starting to get my first gasket leak in all those years. I Love My Hookers! But, the TTI are better as far as the starter is concern.

Charged I have two statements about headers.

1 Make sure you need them. Headers are worth around 5 HP over stock HP manifolds on a mild street motor. If you have 383 2 barrel exhaust manifolds then either HP ones or headers!

2 Don't buy headers by prices. If you want headers dig deep and buy good ones! Cheap headers are nothing but a pain in the Chevy! Thin walls dissipate heat to fast and cook starters, flex and causes leaks. My first set headers where cheap hooker knock offs and where POS. One tube cracked at #3 hole and the ticking was driving me nuts!  To thin to wield, so I had to brazes it over and over and over!

Day I them off I folded them in to little chucks and jumped on them over and over again! God I hated them!

Cuda Ken

[cdr]

for the money these are very good headers,16 gauge steel none coated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8207/overview/make/dodge

[myk]

TTi's or Doug's.  Buy once, cry once...

[1974dodgecharger]

dont get those hooker competitions they make everything a pain...though the power and sound is NICE!!!

[fy469rtse]

And heads , if alloys , plug angle have changed and a set that fits steel heads will have plug issues on alloy's, my advice we are at fault as much as the manufacturers, we modify and change a lot of things to these cars, I would buy a set of dougs to suit what heads I have , uncoated fit them , most sets even with mini starter has to go in with header to that side, you will have to ding areas to suit and you can gain a lot of clearance buy machining raised area to ports , change the angle slightly , and once you are satisfied with the fittment, remove and then get them ceramic coated

[XH29N0G]

dont get those hooker competitions they make everything a pain...though the power and sound is NICE!!!

I have hooker competitions will try something else (TTI or Dougs) when mine wear out.  I had a lot of trouble getting these in.  After getting them in, I did exactly what fy469rtse - started modifying things with angle plugs etc.  The dinging process was not that bad.

[ChargedNJ]

great advice you guys.  I'm going to try TTIs and see how i do.  Once again, thanks for all the quick replies.  I LOVE THIS SITE!!  Great pics cudaken

[War wagon]

I run the full TTI system, headers ,x pipe, full 3" exhaust . Fit is perfect!! Sounds great IMHO and room with a mini starter. Worth every penny

[ACUDANUT]

Only Factory HP manifolds for me.   Headers are a pain and starter killers.

[twodko]

Only Factory HP manifolds for me.   Headers are a pain and starter killers.

X2

[ChargedNJ]

i've had my car for almost 4 years now and i'm just starting to toy around with it...this is a helluva lot of fun i got to say.

[Supercharged Riot]

Well.. if it is stock, im assuming stock hp manifolds will do.
But if were talking about heads that have some work done on them, i think headers will yield better performance. See below

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0106_manifolds_vs_headers/viewall.html

[mopar0166]

I have hookers on mine and love them just finished a rebuild on my 440,  the gave average problems for headers to be honest if you expect the headers to just slide, then look for hp exhaust manifolds.  The TTI's are nice but have also heard people complaining about them as well.   headers are alot of money and work to install but the pay off is great in the ends. 

[myk]

What were the complaints about the TTi's?

[ACUDANUT]

Well.. if it is stock, im assuming stock hp manifolds will do.
But if were talking about heads that have some work done on them, i think headers will yield better performance. See below

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0106_manifolds_vs_headers/viewall.html

Not stock, but I am done with headers...period.

[ws23rt]

I had headers on a 70 charger 440. I put them on because I had them and they were headers. One big pain to install and changing the starter was not fun.  A good question anyone should ask themselves when thinking about adding headers is why? Am I going to use the added breathing? Is their a pay back?
Competitive racing as a motive would justify the hassle. But to add them just because would bring regret

[fy469rtse]

Extra thought , headers on a 383 , where I'm sure that there all made for 440 blocks .
so that puts headers down and in further in engine bay, but slight clearance issues to stock steering arm's, just watch that when you start dinging for clearance, note turn wheels lock to lock as arms geometry changes on arms

[cougs]

Agree, but the good ones and don't look back.  The question is will you see an TQ/HP increase on a stock engine over HP manifolds?  I'm debating this internally right now. 

[XH29N0G]

I know I responded already, but I thought some more information might be in order. 

So I put some cheap ones on mine when I was in high school and there was no problem with fitting them or putting them on.  Then they rusted out, so I put some Hooker competition ones on and had a difficult time getting them in.  I suspect others would have had an easier time of it.  Once in however, they fit.  Then I swapped for angle plugs and needed to ding them.  It is possible they hang a little lower than they would on a 440, but I don't notice it.  I like them.  Next time, I will go with TTI or Doug's because of what I have heard about fitment.  my 

[odcics2]

Tried many brands and Hookers fit the best and worked great.  Also lasted a long time with no leaks, too.
5 years later sold them and got over 1/2 the $$ back towards another set.   

Whatever you get, make sure you get equal length tubes. They are tuned for an RPM range.   Also watch for primary diameter.
Don't go to big on a street engine, or you won't see the increase in torque you are looking for.

Like all aspects of engine building, the parts work in a certain range best.
Always easy to over cam, over carb., over intake... Well, you get the picture.

[fy469rtse]

Hookers or dougs , tti jump in price , but what ever you choose , just put in the time to make sure they fit, so the improvement you will feel won't be ruined by them touching rattling on something

[Mebsuta]

I like the headers I have, but don't know exactly what they are.  Previous owner told me they were Hedman, but that was 25 years ago and they don't look like the Hedmans of today.

They are 1 3/4, four-into-one.  The way the tubes are configured, they look like Hooker Super Competition, but there is no Hooker badge on them.  They fit in 1968 383 RR with power steering, 4 speed, and factory-type starter.  They were already old when I got them and they are still on the car.  I know they'll have to be replaced some day, so I look around, and everything either needs a mini starter, or won't work with PS or 4-sp, or some other exception.  

[ChargedNJ]

Hey guys.  So i picked up a pair of used headers the other day that the seller claimed were never used (and it looks to be the case).  But even if not, they were only $80 so i figured it was worth the risk.  I'd first like to identify what brand they are, as he didn't know and there was no packaging.  The only marking on them is the number 79130.  It doesnt appear to be a lot or date cose as the number is the same right to left.  They are 1 3/4 in pipes with a 3" collector.  Any help is appreciated!!

[ChargedNJ]

So i think i might have just bought headers for a class A motorhome   Based on my google search for "headers 79130", the result was hedman model #79130 and the dimensions match...1 3/4" tubes, 3" collector.  I'll call them tomorrow to confirm, but it looks like i crapped out!

[cudaken]

 Charged NJ, I think you are screwed if you cannot get your money back. Unless they are fender well headers (you cut out the inner fenders to install) I have never seen a set of BB B bodies Headers look like that!

Guess there is a reason they have never been installed!

Cuda Ken 

[ChargedNJ]

i knew it was a risk, so if im stuck, i'll have to live with it.  I'll try Hedman in the morning to confirm and if i am in fact screwed, i'll call the guy i bought from and see what he says.

[ChargedNJ]

so i've got to tell you guys this story.  I think we're all used to getting screwed by others when it comes to buying stuff second hand (and often even with new things).  So i called Hedman today (super nice guy) and they confirmed i got Hedmans for an 85 camper van, lol.  So i text the guy i bought them from and explained what the situation was and he immediately apologized and explained he was told they were for a bbody.  he told me right away to bring them back and he'd give me my money back.  I'm going to see if i can make them fit, but my hopes are slim...from what i gather from you guys, even headers designed for our cars are tough to fit.  If they dont, i plan on bringing them back next week or the weekend after.  I'll keep you posted on what happens, but i thought i'd share as its nice when you get to interact with decent people..i know its a small thing but kind of restores your faith in humanity.

[ChargedNJ]

So, i finally got a pair of Hookers (never gets onld saying that).  Any advice as to where i can go to get installation directions/advice?

[Cooter]

Most likely, you Wil need to loosen motor mounts and jack up engine on each side your working on one at a time.

I like to remove spark plugs.
starter will most likely need to be upgraded to the high torque "mini" starter.
might even need to knock a loose steering drag link.

[Canadian1968]

I just got finished installing a set of Hedmans on my 440.

Jack up car a good 2ft.
I am not sure if the 383 is the same as 440 block ,  but your two bolts that run threw the manifolds on the passanger side, go into the coolant passages. So make sure you drain your coolant !!
remove old manifolds.
remove studs ( unless your using them instead of bolts)
remove spark plugs
Remove center bolt from both motor mounts
place jack under oil pan,  use a piece of wood 2x4, 2x6 whatever you got, between your jack and pan so you dont' crush the oil pan.
Jack motor up approx 2-3 inches.
remove wires from starter.  Your probably going to have to pull the starter as well .
Install headers,  few bolts to hold in place, drop engine back to mount positon., Check clearances
Try and install stock starter, may need to drop headers and install with starter at the same time.
Make sure you put in your gasket !, Bolt up the header and move on to the passanger side. !!!

[XH29N0G]

I just got finished installing a set of Hedmans on my 440.

Jack up car a good 2ft.
I am not sure if the 383 is the same as 440 block ,  but your two bolts that run threw the manifolds on the passanger side, go into the coolant passages. So make sure you drain your coolant !!
remove old manifolds.
remove studs ( unless your using them instead of bolts)
remove spark plugs
Remove center bolt from both motor mounts
place jack under oil pan,  use a piece of wood 2x4, 2x6 whatever you got, between your jack and pan so you dont' crush the oil pan.
Jack motor up approx 2-3 inches.
remove wires from starter.  Your probably going to have to pull the starter as well .
Install headers,  few bolts to hold in place, drop engine back to mount positon., Check clearances
Try and install stock starter, may need to drop headers and install with starter at the same time.
Make sure you put in your gasket !, Bolt up the header and move on to the passanger side. !!!

Most likely, you Wil need to loosen motor mounts and jack up engine on each side your working on one at a time.

I like to remove spark plugs.
starter will most likely need to be upgraded to the high torque "mini" starter.
might even need to knock a loose steering drag link.

I think this is good advice.  .....   I ran into problems because I do not think I had the car up high enough, and was hesitant to remove the steering links.  I think these would have let me do it.  Ultimately, I did get it up high enough to put in without removing the links, but it was not without some cursing.  On mine, the stock starter still fits, but has to go in with the headers and it may be that a mini starter would be easier.  Yours is not a manual transmission, is it?

[ChargedNJ]

Holy crap, really..2 feet off the ground? As in bottom of tire needs to be 2 ft off or just underside of car? No issue with the motor mount but am hesitant to mess with steering links. Nope..not manual. There are some old rusty headers on there now so hopefully no clearance issues. Thanks for the advice fellas!

[ACUDANUT]

Only Factory HP manifolds for me.   Headers are a pain and starter killers.

X2

[Canadian1968]

No the tire doesn't have to be 2ft ,more so the car. I placed my jack stands at the crossmember intersect points. You want to be able to slide under the car comfortably. I have the entire car jacked up right now so that might be different if you jack up only the front. 

I strongly suggest a second set of hands to help lift the header up from the bottom!!

[ChargedNJ]

holy crap this is hard