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Kick down cable adjustment ?

Started by fy469rtse, October 12, 2013, 05:34:59 AM

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fy469rtse

Anyone done this modification, I can't seem to get the right amount of travel to kick down, cable should pull lever arm on tranny fully open at wot, ok can get that but seems to hold kick down slightly open at idle,
The original type slide allowed throttle to open what ever amount you adjusted, and then open fully at wot,
Wondering if any of you guys had to change lever length on transmission for cable travel to match carby throttle travel, or is there a obvious adjustment that I'm missing ,
This is the part I love about this site, when you guys answer, it's just like having friends right here discussing the problem and finding the answers

Cooter

First off what cable set up are you using? I personally don't like the Lokar set ups for this reason.
I converted mine to a pull system similar to GM at carb. I'm running the cable and bracketry off late model Dodge ram.
Cable on trans come in from rear.

With all this, I still had sone fabrication like welding a piece onto the bottom of my Dominator carb.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Charger-Bodie

I recently took my lokar setup off for this same reason. Im told that if you use the shorter arm at the tranny it will work. Havent tried though.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

John_Kunkel


The problem with most cable setups is, even though they're supposed to be Mopar specific, they're generic in nature. The transmission lever comes in several different lengths and this is the source of adjustment problems.

You need to measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and then measure the full travel of the transmission lever where the cable attaches; it usually won't be the same so you need to drill a new hole in the transmission lever so that the full travel of both levers is the same. There should also be a spring pulling the transmission lever forward.

Basically, you want the transmission lever full forward with the carb at idle and near full back at WOT. The trans lever should start to move rearward as soon as the throttle is moved off idle (IOW, no cable slack at idle).

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Musicman


fy469rtse

Quote from: Cooter on October 12, 2013, 07:27:05 AM
First off what cable set up are you using? I personally don't like the Lokar set ups for this reason.
I converted mine to a pull system similar to GM at carb. I'm running the cable and bracketry off late model Dodge ram.
Cable on trans come in from rear.

With all this, I still had sone fabrication like welding a piece onto the bottom of my Dominator carb.
yes cooter cable so it pulls from the rear and from carb, it's almost like the arm on transmission is a touch too long

fy469rtse

Yes John , no slack in cable , but adjusted like this it's hold the lever slightly open , and if I let it off slightly it does not fully open lever, and after ready your posts this will affect line pressure and not good for the trans ,
I was think of modifying the attachment for the modern AFB carb for stock linkage attachment, lengthen that , plenty of room with victor manifold and have a series off holes to try for adjustment , I can weld to this off car , it's a bolt on attachment, and then once I get it right, can clean it up and plate it so it doesn't look out of place
A lot easier doing up there than continually working at trans lever.
I think it's a matter of getting the right ratio of swing,
Thanks for input guys, thanks John , transmissions not my strong point and I needed to know fully how this should act work in operation , know I understand better i can move forward,