Does this look right , dont know cant remember

[remta1]

Replaced all my gauges with new ones ,dontquite "bolt ' straight in like year one says.
Anyway , I cant remember if this is how the ammeter one goes .
1. if I don't put on  the plastic thingy on the outside of the surround the nuts would go thru the holes when tightened .
2. I got a cardboard spacer with two holes which basically look like the plastic 'thingy " am I supposed to use the cardboard one instead.
3.in case the photo isn't clear , order of "bolting/mounting ....
a. plastic thingy
b.washer
c. nut on thread
d wire will go on next to each terminal

will it work with which one ? unsure , I don't want to put the instrument cluster back in and find it doesn't work as if I try and remove the bits while on the car the gauge will fall out inside the instrument cluster and I will have to pull the dash apart again .
cheers

[charger Downunder]

Watch out you don't want the ammeter to earth out on the dash cluster. ? May be someone else will chime in.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Both ammeter mounting studs must be insulated from the instrument cluster frame. The ammeter is in the battery charging circuit between the alternator and battery and sees full system voltage as well as high currents. From your photo it now looks like there is no insulation at all between the the dash frame and ammeter studs. If you were to wire it up the way it is in the picture you would have a dead short to ground and possibly a lot of melted wiring insulation if the fusible link didn't let go. The alternator would also be working into a dead short. I think what you're calling plastic thingys are actually plastic shoulder washers meant to insulate the mounting studs. If you post a picture of the plastic parts that would help confirm that. Or the plastic thingy could also be a spreader to reinforce the mounting studs when the have the relatively heavy wires attached. Again, a picture would help.

[jlatessa]

  On our re-install I used the cardboard insulator inside the dash (between the gauge itself and the housing),
then two round insulators on the ammeter studs ( I used Holley fuel bowl washers, plastic,
they fit perfectly) then cardboard on the back with steel flat washers/nuts.

Joe

[Dino]

Are you dead set on using that ammeter?

Also, is that voltage regulator upgraded to a solid state version?  If not, if that puppy goes you can say goodbye to your fuel, temp and oil gauges.  Guess how I know...

[remta1]

Thanks for all the info guys , i have a new solid state one attached to the new circuit board .

[remta1]

Hi,

Both ammeter mounting studs must be insulated from the instrument cluster frame. The ammeter is in the battery charging circuit between the alternator and battery and sees full system voltage as well as high currents. From your photo it now looks like there is no insulation at all between the the dash frame and ammeter studs. If you were to wire it up the way it is in the picture you would have a dead short to ground and possibly a lot of melted wiring insulation if the fusible link didn't let go. The alternator would also be working into a dead short. I think what you're calling plastic thingys are actually plastic shoulder washers meant to insulate the mounting studs. If you post a picture of the plastic parts that would help confirm that. Or the plastic thingy could also be a spreader to reinforce the mounting studs when the have the relatively heavy wires attached. Again, a picture would help.

The wee plastic parts have overspray on them , i will pull the unit apart in the weekend and post more pics as  id ont want to fry anything , or can i just not connect , do i really need it it doesnt worry me if it doesnt work so long as it is not critical to driving.Donnt want to sound stupid but wiring isnt my area of expertise

[Dino]

Hi,

Both ammeter mounting studs must be insulated from the instrument cluster frame. The ammeter is in the battery charging circuit between the alternator and battery and sees full system voltage as well as high currents. From your photo it now looks like there is no insulation at all between the the dash frame and ammeter studs. If you were to wire it up the way it is in the picture you would have a dead short to ground and possibly a lot of melted wiring insulation if the fusible link didn't let go. The alternator would also be working into a dead short. I think what you're calling plastic thingys are actually plastic shoulder washers meant to insulate the mounting studs. If you post a picture of the plastic parts that would help confirm that. Or the plastic thingy could also be a spreader to reinforce the mounting studs when the have the relatively heavy wires attached. Again, a picture would help.

The wee plastic parts have overspray on them , i will pull the unit apart in the weekend and post more pics as  id ont want to fry anything , or can i just not connect , do i really need it it doesnt worry me if it doesnt work so long as it is not critical to driving.Donnt want to sound stupid but wiring isnt my area of expertise

Electrical is not easy so don't feel bad.  I learn as I go as well and with the help of several members here I have been able to do things I never would have tried before.

Yes you can leave the ammeter disconnected and honestly it is advisable.  The system does work but all wiring and connections have to be in perfect shape or you risk a fire.  Look for ammeter bypass threads on this board.  The easiest bypass is to simply hook up both the red and black wire to a single stud on the ammeter or alternatively you can connect the wires themselves and leave the gauge unhooked.  The ammeter will even look like it works as the needle is always in the middle.  Bonus!   

[remta1]

Yep my shout of invisible beers for you guys .I might just leave it unplugged it is only for astetic looks for me , my main ones are the fuel guage and temp and oil .

But after reading these and other threads will definately be buying/mounting a fire extuinguisher in the car

[Dino]

Yep my shout of invisible beers for you guys .I might just leave it unplugged it is only for astetic looks for me , my main ones are the fuel guage and temp and oil .

But after reading these and other threads will definately be buying/mounting a fire extuinguisher in the car

Good plan!  Halon is the way to go.

[Nacho-RT74]

just in case, neves use plastic to insulate the ammeter studs... this pieces NORMALLY gets heat, and repeat THIS IS NORMAL, which is not normal, is get OVERheat.

being an ammount of heat normal, the plastic will be melting and sloooooowly.

get the propper insulator material which I think it calls Masonite. Several vendors around sells this insulator already cut to mount.

Usually, ammeters get TWO of this insulator pieces, one inside the housing and the one visible outside

[Pete in NH]

I think strips of FR-4 fiberglass-epoxy printed circuit board material would be perfect to make up those insulator strips. Minus the copper clad coating of course! Its a very stable high temperature material and very tough.