rebuilding / restoring correct dated alternator

[resq302]

Well, seeing how my wife might be laid off from her job, I started thinking about what I could do to start bringing in some extra cash for my family. Working on my Dad's alternator that I located the correct dated parts for, I figured why not start doing rebuilding of alternators and starters on the side. I have learned a ton about the differences between the square backs and round backs as well as the 2 year only ones for 1970 and 1971 round backs. Anyway, here are some pics of what I started with and what I have achieved so far.  First is the before.  Second is the after.  Third is the close up showing correct end bearing and original stampings on the diodes.

[Pete in NH]

Hi Brian,

I think if you were to try and compete with the cheap local autoparts rebuilds you would wind up working for 10 cents an hour. However, if you have in mind to do really high quality custom rebuilds for collector cars that could be another story if you can source the parts at a reasonable cost. Quality bearings for the alternators are not inexpensive. I would think to do everything properly you would need a good press and a lathe to turn down armatures on starters and clean up the slip rings on alternators if required. You would also find a gadget called a growler handy for finding shorted armatures in starters. I would think you would also need test jigs to make sure the finished product was good to go. Sounds like a great idea though, so that folks who don't mind spending a little extra could get a properly rebuilt unit instead of the quickie rebuilt junk at the local parts house.

[resq302]

Hi Pete,

I will not be competing with the junk that is out there today sold by A1 Cardone or other brands.  This will be a quality rebuild with everything tested out and common things replaced like diodes, bearings, armatures cleaned up and revarnished, etc.  I will also be putting the diode stamps on it too which I know a lot of people do not do.  One other thing that I will not do is if it is a virgin housing (meaning it has not been restored yet) I refuse to bead blast the finish and ruin the original green sand cast finish which had a fairly smooth finish to it.  Lets face it, once you bead blast the aluminum, that original finish is long gone and you can not get it back.  In all honesty, starters are a lot easier to rebuild than alternators as you don't need a press and the housings can get painted.  Well, part of it.  Also, starters are easy to test.  Its the alternator that I would need to have a bench testing machine to see what kind of output it makes.  As for the armatures, I plan on having a bunch of cores on hand so if there is one that is bad, I can replace the armature or even field winding for alternators.

[Hard Charger]

I had older re-man alternator and the original starter rebuild by a local old timer. the alternator rebuild cost $95 but that also included a modification change to a 2 wire for my new wiring harness. the starter rebuild was about $65. People on this forum have called me crazy for spending this kind of money. but I have original looking parts but better quality than you can get from the local car parts stores.

I have had other re man alternators rebuilt by this guy in the past. I always get a pile of old parts (springs,brush's etc) from him after the rebuild that is proof that these large rebuild companies use cheap, used in some cases mismatched parts to rebuild there alternators.

[ODZKing]

Brian, looks great. 
Send me a PM with some estimated prices.

[Pete in NH]

Brian, 

Sounds like a plan! I used to have access to a custom re-builder years ago. I do them myself now. Both the starter and alternator on my 71 are the originals. One of the issues with old Mopars is that so many were used as fleet vehicles by police and taxis. So, with starters and alternators you never knew if you were getting a rebuilt that used a beat to death core and got a quickie rebuild job. Now, they're all old and beat to death so the chain store rebuilds are all mostly junk. The mass re-builders mix and match parts almost at random these days and create some real Frankenmonsters. How many times do you see here on this forum that someone has replaced an alternator two or three times before getting a decent one. I think you'll be offering a needed service to those that only want to replace the bad unit once and not have to worry about it.

[resq302]

Hi Pete,

thanks for the vote of confidence.  I take great pride in my work as you can see from my example and the other work I do on our cars.  I refuse to be like the "spray and pray" rebuilders out there.  I will also put in new parts like diodes, bearings, etc which are still available.  Unfortunately, sometimes things are no longer made due to age and a better used part might need to be used in place but whenever possible, new, quality parts will be used.

Like you, I got tired of replacing the same part due to the inept people who work at those typical run of the mill low budget rebuilders.  That is exactly why I will nver use A1 Cardone again.  It seemed like IF (big if there!) it worked out of the box, typically I got maybe, just maybe 3 mos out of the part before it broke or started leaking again.  By the time I went back and forth to the auto parts stores with the warranty and changing it out and such, I could have purchased a totally new part in all the expenses I accrued with gas and mileage on my vehicle.

I strive for perfection and high a high emphasis on quality.  I think I can certainly offer something with that added touch of originality for those people who want it.  Again, it will all depend on what the customer wants as to how much something will cost and what kind of rebuild it will be getting.  Not everyone cares about having the diodes stamped or a factory raised ring bearing on the back of it.

[resq302]

Thanks for the good wishes.  I understand that there are other places that do this but some do not offer the stampings on the diodes and other places just sand blast the housings which ruin the original finish.  I also understand that not everyone wants a concours restored alternator but are looking for a quality service that will last which is why I would be open to various forms of the restoration.  Lets face it, not all of our cars out there are trailer queens or show boats.  This will cater to no only the high end crowd but also the average Joe who wants to have a nice product on their car if they desire to pop the hood at a local cruise night or car show.

Anyway, here is some more progress.

[maxwellwedge]

Looks good - correct bearing as well. All you need is the paint splotch color for the correct part number/year and you are all set......and possibly the correct numbered pulley.

[resq302]

Thats the missing link.  What are the color splotchs?  Is there some kind of chart for it?

[Pete in NH]

Brian,

Really nice work!

[resq302]

Thanks, Pete.  I still have to add the finishing touches like the inspector sticker, red warning tag, and insulation cover for the pos. battery stud.  All of which I need to order still.

[A383Wing]

I have heard that the "thinner" coil assembly between the case halves has a better low RPM rate...seems to work good on my car. This thinner coil assembly is only for square-back alternators

Also, if you use the smallest alt pulley, it will charge better at idle as well