Help me pick an engine

[Dreamcar]

Knowing that a complete rebuild will happen, what would you pick:

1- '76 440 block (dismantled) with crank and intake for $350
2- '71 440 engine (complete) that is seized from sitting for $750 (removed from an Imperial)

[Cooter]

If your gonba stroke the engine, then go withbthe 76 cast crank engine...


If running a 4speed, you will need the steel crank from the 71...
Both are goid, I just worry hout how frozen that 71 is...might have to be bored too much to clean up...

[Dreamcar]

If your gonba stroke the engine, then go withbthe 76 cast crank engine...


If running a 4speed, you will need the steel crank from the 71...
Both are goid, I just worry hout how frozen that 71 is...might have to be bored too much to clean up...

I should have mentioned that I'm only going to have the engine rebuilt for weekend cruiser...425hp max

[green69rt]

Maybe a little more info would help.  What do you mean "complete rebuild"?

New crank, heads, rods and pistons??

Or just a bore, new bearings, etc.??

[Supercharged Riot]

Id go with the 76

You already have an open view of the inside so you can inspect
Plus i think the main webbing is thicker, which makes for stronger block
Ditch the cast crank and go with a forged one.
It can only be rebuilt so many times before the block becomes useless.
Might as well make a good one since you got everything torn down

[tan top]

   if your looking to do a complete rebuild ,  why buy block / motor with stuff your going to throw away ,  my guess with both them ! your only going to be using the block ! 

[Dreamcar]

   if your looking to do a complete rebuild ,  why buy block / motor with stuff your going to throw away ,  my guess with both them ! your only going to be using the block ! 

The 76 is just the bare block, with the crank and intake included on the side. I already have a set of 906 heads at home. The 71 is complete and would need a complete taredown.

[Cooter]

Careful Tantop, I got a bunch of pms from someone with their panties in a twist because I asked about simple logic as you've done.

Thin skin is prevelent these days. The obvious isn't always what folks want to hear I guess.

[fy469rtse]

I would lean toward the imperials engine, high option, TNT motor maybe , steel crank job maybe, was it all over for steel cranks by 71, it's only stuck because its been sitting so long, will he let you pull a head off , doesn't take long to put it back if it looks bad down the bores,
I'm still having trouble that your asking for help ? Cooter
You know your stuff , go with what you think, I got my engine and trans from over there , turned out was from an imperial and cop issue , was in fantastic shape, also was stuck ,

[tan top]

Careful Tantop, I got a bunch of pms from someone with their panties in a twist because I asked about simple logic as you've done.

Thin skin is prevelent these days. The obvious isn't always what folks want to hear I guess.

I hear ya Cooter  ,I know what your saying       I know ,
its easy to read the wrong thing into posts & what someone  writes on the internet , even when nothing nasty is ment by it ,     ,   cause you cant tell how the person is saying it      not like you & your buddies are standing round a open hood drinking a few beers & bench racing etc
   

   if your looking to do a complete rebuild ,  why buy block / motor with stuff your going to throw away ,  my guess with both them ! your only going to be using the block ! 

The 76 is just the bare block, with the crank and intake included on the side. I already have a set of 906 heads at home. The 71 is complete and would need a complete taredown.

,

that's  what I was going to ask last night but forgot  , whats the plan with the heads !
   think I would be inclined in going with the 76 block !! or Just a bare block, ( there is a 75 block on ebay too at moment on standard bore  for 275 , although shipping  would add $ )
with the 71 that's  locked / seized
whats already been mentioned  , don't know whats going on inside  , what is on already +20 or +30  & so on  ,  maybe the bores need sleeving ?  mabe the crank has spun a few rod bearings & crank needs a regrind  or even worse  oil pump failure , & rods are welded to crank  & or cracks in the block    , i'm just speculating  worst case scenario , & me over thinking what you could buy ,   
dare say its prolly  ok !

what I would do , if  date coding  OEM type thing is of no interest to you , just look round for a Bare block , &  get a complete rebuild kit either for a standard 440  or a 493 stroker  , all same price from 440 source or muscle motors  etc.

[Dreamcar]

Careful Tantop, I got a bunch of pms from someone with their panties in a twist because I asked about simple logic as you've done.

Thin skin is prevelent these days. The obvious isn't always what folks want to hear I guess.

I hear ya Cooter  ,I know what your saying       I know ,
its easy to read the wrong thing into posts & what someone  writes on the internet , even when nothing nasty is ment by it ,     ,   cause you cant tell how the person is saying it      not like you & your buddies are standing round a open hood drinking a few beers & bench racing etc
   

   if your looking to do a complete rebuild ,  why buy block / motor with stuff your going to throw away ,  my guess with both them ! your only going to be using the block ! 

The 76 is just the bare block, with the crank and intake included on the side. I already have a set of 906 heads at home. The 71 is complete and would need a complete taredown.

,

that's  what I was going to ask last night but forgot  , whats the plan with the heads !
   think I would be inclined in going with the 76 block !! or Just a bare block, ( there is a 75 block on ebay too at moment on standard bore  for 275 , although shipping  would add $ )
with the 71 that's  locked / seized
whats already been mentioned  , don't know whats going on inside  , what is on already +20 or +30  & so on  ,  maybe the bores need sleeving ?  mabe the crank has spun a few rod bearings & crank needs a regrind  or even worse  oil pump failure , & rods are welded to crank  & or cracks in the block    , i'm just speculating  worst case scenario , & me over thinking what you could buy ,   
dare say its prolly  ok !

what I would do , if  date coding  OEM type thing is of no interest to you , just look round for a Bare block , &  get a complete rebuild kit either for a standard 440  or a 493 stroker  , all same price from 440 source or muscle motors  etc.

Thank tantop. I think you and the others are correct with getting the bare block. Since posting this, I may have a lead on a 74 bare block and a 727 to go with it. Since my car is already a non numbers matching 383, the year of the block doesn't really matter much.