Factory AC removal - 69 Charger

[Shredthepow]

I have a factory AC 69 charger with a 440.  I am thinking of rebuilding it without AC mainly because I don't have all the parts needed.  I am missing the condenser, evaporator and all hoses.  I do have the AC heater box, heater controls and heater control valve.  Besides switching my pulleys to non AC & buying a new alternator bracket, what do I have to do to delete the AC system?  How do I route the hoses, etc so I don't have AC?

[WHITE AND RED 69]

You will also have to change the water pump to the stock 8 blade pump. And you will bypass using the heater valve so no need for the curved hose to it. Just connect both hoses to the 2 fittings on the left on the firewall. 

Why not get a kit from Classic Auto Air or Bouchillon Performance and keep the a/c in the car? I just used a kit from them and it went together great. For the price of getting new alt brackets and pulleys you would be pretty close to the price of an a/c kit.

[Shredthepow]

You are right, the prices of the A/C on classic air are not too bad.  I will probably buy one of those kits.  Thanks.

I tested the heater core to make sure it was working.  How can I test the A/C evaporator?

[Chatt69chgr]

I think Classic Auto Air pressure tests those.  Wouldn't think you would want too much pressure.  Maybe a few pounds.  Put under water and look for bubbles.

[John_Kunkel]

When the A/C is shutoff the system pressure can climb to around 100 psi so it's safe top pressurize the evaporator to that...pressurize it and dunk it in a tub of water to leak check.

[PlainfieldCharger]

When the A/C is shutoff the system pressure can climb to around 100 psi so it's safe top pressurize the evaporator to that...pressurize it and dunk it in a tub of water to leak check.

This was the radiator shop that test mine did. If I knew it was that easy....

[MaximRecoil]

How important is it to change the pulleys? Most of my factory A/C stuff is gone, and I recently replaced my water pump with a non-A/C one, and my alternator and brackets are non-A/C too. I've never replaced the fan pulley or the power steering pump pulley, so I assume they are still stock. Is that a problem?

Also, if you still have the stock A/C heater box under the dash, shouldn't you keep the heater valve hooked up on the firewall?

[Dino]

How important is it to change the pulleys? Most of my factory A/C stuff is gone, and I recently replaced my water pump with a non-A/C one, and my alternator and brackets are non-A/C too. I've never replaced the fan pulley or the power steering pump pulley, so I assume they are still stock. Is that a problem?

Also, if you still have the stock A/C heater box under the dash, shouldn't you keep the heater valve hooked up on the firewall?

I don't think that would be a problem.  The water pump is the main issue when going from one system to another but you already took care of that.

Yes you need the heater valve on the firewall hooked up and working properly or you won't be able to shut the heat off.  Unfortunately I found out about that little detail in the middle of a hot summer.   

[NHCharger]

My 68 was a A/C car but everything has been stripped out. I decided to swap over to non A/C since I rarely need it.  I bought a non A/C heater box. Plugged several unneeded holes in the firewall, bought a non A/C heater control, had to change out the plug on the under dash wiring harness that connects to the heater box, had to rewire some of the under dash wiring harness.

[MaximRecoil]

Most of my factory A/C stuff on my '69 is gone too, but I'm going to keep the A/C heater box and controls, because I like that you can select A/C or Max A/C and get heat to blow out of the vents mounted on the forward face of the dash, like in a modern car. 

[John_Kunkel]

With all of the posts asking how to remove factory A/C there should be a swap forum for exchanging parts for those who want to resurrect their A/C.