fy4's 69 rt restoration

[fy469rtse]

thanks Mitch, 2mm thick uncannily I think that's what its called, supposedly the right type of car plate for this era.
tried an earlier post to this with attachments and it came up error, its a pain to post photo's on here , oh well at least you get see some

What is zincaneal? its the term for the type of steel and I think to the chromate level to the process in the manufacturing of the steel, has to do with its ability to resist rusting , its also a softer material then todays high tensile thinner steels, excuse the blurred photo's , these were taken with camera phone, and it wasn't a good phone

[Old Tired Rebel]

Thanks

[tan top]

 lot of good stuff  going  on !! nice work    keep the pictures coming 

[fy469rtse]

more

[fy469rtse]

boxing and bracing lower and upper control arms, first stages of paint , colour is going to take awhile to grow on me,

[fy469rtse]

more, stages of paint

[fy469rtse]

more

[fy469rtse]

and more

[Old Tired Rebel]

That Silver looks great.

[fy469rtse]

and more

[fy469rtse]

got her home , now to start finding everything I have put away, some thing obvious, like the rear end and springs keep tripping over them

[JB400]

Looks great.  Silver is one of the few colors that show off the lines of the car real well

[fy469rtse]

whilst waiting for my car to be painted
assembled my engine, 440 stroked out to 505 cubes.
440 source stroker kit , rebalanced here, including the time to blueprint everything.
chrome molly top rings, etc
10.25 comp
Edelbrock Victor junior heads and Victor intake,
extrude honed and guides clearance, seats lapped, valves backcut
Block hot tanked machined out 30 thou, machinist I used likes to have main caps on as well as torque plates , his reasoning is that all these combined put stress on the block to distort cylinder bores,
block indexed and squared,
new hardened billet main caps , got complaints here because the steel was so hard and made the line bore difficult, sounded good to me ,
Milidon gear drive, why , because it makes dialling these camshafts so much easier, I know there a pain because everything else is off set out further, but the extra trouble is worth it, can degree and did perfect, not close but spot on.
camshaft Solid roller cbr3 xr274r-10,
Milidon hemi size sump I think 7 quart and pickup,
I think I will add to this as I go , forgotten a lot,
but I know any one thinking of using these heads , check Ron's thread on these for the pitfalls , rocker cover clearance issues, at the time I did mine , available rocker gear ? , intake manifold top base not cut , angle for street use, had to machine that once I got to mock up drive line in the car,  

 

[myk]

That's going to be a magazine-level car when it's done...

[tan top]

   nice 

[fy469rtse]

not even close guy's to magazine level, but nice compliments, couldn't afford the level of body work needed to paint her black, or else it would have been a few more years in the making,
a few more shots attached hopefully

[fy469rtse]

any one else had the same problem with those pg classic upper door pads, I can see slight bulges where the clips behind are, any fixes that anyone has done to minimise that,
will take some under carriage shots showing braced 8 3/4 rear, 742 traclock centre, rebuilt brakes and springs, and the 3 inch exhaust I have been working on recently,

[green69rt]

I notice that your battery tray looks to be body color.  Did you have it painted in place??

[fy469rtse]

I just gave him all the parts I wanted body colour, and he hung them in the booth with car and painted everything at the same time, if we're to do it again Mitch, I would get your painter to hang and align front panels including bonnet adjusted and leave those hinges there adjusted to fit, hate all the little nicks on bolts from readjusting things , the factory painted the body completely assembled didn't they, you could get him to paint al those hidden areas the hang panels, line them up and not have to touch the again,
I chrome plated nearly all my bolts for this reason, but you can't stop the scrapes to areas where you have adjusted.
Another trick I used when the bolts had to be painted, I wrap the head in electrical tape, then grab a metric socket to fit 1mm increments , helps minimise nicks to the heads of bolts,
Another tip Mitch if you go the fully assembled way if his booth is wide enough also to open doors, I hang everything and once I have everything lined as good as I can get, I let off the bottom hinge and lift and measure at the top to qtr
Panel and have the doors 5 to 8 mm higher at the rear, reason for this once you put all the door hardware and glass back in , the weight will sag doors to just about perfect, any new photo's of yours , progress ?

[six-tee-nine]

I think you did a great job so far.

I know what you mean with the little details like the paint on the bolt heads. Use as many new chrome or zinc plated bolts where you can and bolts like the ones from the door hinges can always be touched up with a small brush. Ask your body guy for a left over of the paint for touch up work.
somewhere along the line you will find a bolt you dont have a replacement for or you cant find or forgot to put in place befofe paint.
So having a small amount of paint in a can for these matters is nice to have. Unless you do this for a living you wil always forget one small detail. Dont beat yourself to hard for that.

99% of the people in a car show wont look at your door hinge bolts to see if they are touched up with a brush or not. The one guy that dares to say something about it deserves  the finger...

[green69rt]

I just gave him all the parts I wanted body colour, and he hung them in the booth with car and painted everything at the same time, if we're to do it again Mitch, I would get your painter to hang and align front panels including bonnet adjusted and leave those hinges there adjusted to fit, hate all the little nicks on bolts from readjusting things , the factory painted the body completely assembled didn't they, you could get him to paint al those hidden areas the hang panels, line them up and not have to touch the again,
I chrome plated nearly all my bolts for this reason, but you can't stop the scrapes to areas where you have adjusted.
Another trick I used when the bolts had to be painted, I wrap the head in electrical tape, then grab a metric socket to fit 1mm increments , helps minimise nicks to the heads of bolts,
Another tip Mitch if you go the fully assembled way if his booth is wide enough also to open doors, I hang everything and once I have everything lined as good as I can get, I let off the bottom hinge and lift and measure at the top to qtr
Panel and have the doors 5 to 8 mm higher at the rear, reason for this once you put all the door hardware and glass back in , the weight will sag doors to just about perfect, any new photo's of yours , progress ?

I'll ask my paint guy about this, good points.  I didn't think about the weight of the door components making it sag.  Another little detail!!  I really like the silver color on your car.

[fy469rtse]

Can't wait to see yours painted in the original colour Mitch, green one of my favourite colours, my old car 68 triple green , white bumble bee stripes, colour is actually a silver gold, turns more gold out in the sun, as close a match as I could get for the original colour found on the parcel shelf, suppose to be fy4 but the dodge colour swatches suck, so glad I found an area of paint that had never seen daylight,
Out of all the changes to the greens over the years , not sure on the code, but they got it perfect on the 70 year, the darker of the three greens before the sherwood green , only suggesting it if you are going to stray a bit on your colour Mitch,

[fy469rtse]

I notice that your battery tray looks to be body color.  Did you have it painted in place??

I also just remembered Mitch why I had the battery tray in , the reproduction vacuum canisters had not come yet, so that's one out of a letter car and not quiet the same , had to modify it to fit and what do you know , repro's come out and cheap, 

[fy469rtse]

more photo's, getting more complete rear end in and a lot more of the trim,

[fy469rtse]

more, shots of big arse scoop , tried everything on here , everything looked ridiculous and tiny on that big bonnet,
so went with sort of factory theme scoop and satin black the bonnet to match,
stripe delete charger so I thought it was going to be a bit plain all one colour,
thus the strips down its back to tie everything in.
thinking adding the smaller lines to each side of those like a 68 tail stripe, what do you guys think