Negative battery cable

[JB400]

Sorry Dino, no additional input from me on this issue unless there's more questions.

MaximRecoil and Stroker400 wedge your acting like 10 year old girls!

I will admit that I agree with you.  I'll be polite and not give my full opinion on this matter.  Whether my shadow agrees or disagrees, the world may never know.

[MaximRecoil]

By the way, I made some new battery cables today for my '69, because the positive cable was frayed down by the starter terminal. I'm almost certain that the original cables were 4 gauge rather than 2 gauge like I previously thought (and my cables were definitely original; they had the factory dual rubber boot/spacer/insulator thing down on the starter end).

I used some 1/0 gauge battery cable that I pulled out of a GMC schoolbus in the junkyard; I cut them to the right length and crimped on new copper battery post clamps and lugs. My car has wimpy battery cables no longer.

[Dino]

Thanks Stroker but I think I'm good.   

Maxim I was going with the 2 gauge cables but I'll look into the 1 gauge.  I don't have time to go looking at junkyards unfortunately but the site I linked has pretty decent prices so they can make them for me.

You have convinced me to remove every single wire out of the engine bay so I'll replace all battery cables.  Might as well get it over with!

[Dino]

Would anyone happen to know the exact lengths of the positive cables?  It'll be a while before I can remove mine and I'd like to order the new ones.

[MaximRecoil]

Thanks Stroker but I think I'm good.   

Maxim I was going with the 2 gauge cables but I'll look into the 1 gauge.  I don't have time to go looking at junkyards unfortunately but the site I linked has pretty decent prices so they can make them for me.

You have convinced me to remove every single wire out of the engine bay so I'll replace all battery cables.  Might as well get it over with!

Yeah, new cable from that site you linked to is better than old battery cable from a junkyard anyway, in that the insulation is brand new and that particular cable they sell is made up of very fine strands, so it is much more flexible than standard battery cable, making it easier to route.

2 gauge is plenty by the way; even 4 gauge works, given that that was the factory size. 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge (1/0 = 0 gauge, 1 size bigger than 1 gauge) will of course have lower resistance. It is just a matter of how you want to do things.

I don't know what the factory length of the cables was, because mine had been cut off by a previous owner in order to install those cheap lead gas station style terminals, and then cut off again by me to crimp on copper terminals. "Bill440rt" linked to some reproduction factory-style 4 gauge cables on eBay, and in the description it says:

IT HAS THE CORRECT CLOTH TAPE AND IS 43" LONG. THE NEGATIVE CABLE IS A REPRODUCTION  4 GAUGE 24" LONG CABLE.

I don't know if he got those measurements right or not. I cut my cables that I made yesterday to 3' for the positive and 1.5' for the negative, and they were more than long enough.

[Dino]

Thanks Stroker but I think I'm good.   

Maxim I was going with the 2 gauge cables but I'll look into the 1 gauge.  I don't have time to go looking at junkyards unfortunately but the site I linked has pretty decent prices so they can make them for me.

You have convinced me to remove every single wire out of the engine bay so I'll replace all battery cables.  Might as well get it over with!

Yeah, new cable from that site you linked to is better than old battery cable from a junkyard anyway, in that the insulation is brand new and that particular cable they sell is made up of very fine strands, so it is much more flexible than standard battery cable, making it easier to route.

2 gauge is plenty by the way; even 4 gauge works, given that that was the factory size. 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge (1/0 = 0 gauge, 1 size bigger than 1 gauge) will of course have lower resistance. It is just a matter of how you want to do things.

I don't know what the factory length of the cables was, because mine had been cut off by a previous owner in order to install those cheap lead gas station style terminals, and then cut off again by me to crimp on copper terminals. "Bill440rt" linked to some reproduction factory-style 4 gauge cables on eBay, and in the description it says:

IT HAS THE CORRECT CLOTH TAPE AND IS 43" LONG. THE NEGATIVE CABLE IS A REPRODUCTION  4 GAUGE 24" LONG CABLE.

I don't know if he got those measurements right or not. I cut my cables that I made yesterday to 3' for the positive and 1.5' for the negative, and they were more than long enough.

Thanks Maxim!

I will remove the positive cable and see how long it is, I do think it's a bit longer than what it needs to be.

I 'think' 2 gauge will be plenty for a 90 amp alternator and it would be easier to work with as well.  I'll double check though.

When I have the cable out I'll take some pics and measurements and post back for future reference.

[MaximRecoil]

Thanks Maxim!

I will remove the positive cable and see how long it is, I do think it's a bit longer than what it needs to be.

I 'think' 2 gauge will be plenty for a 90 amp alternator and it would be easier to work with as well.  I'll double check though.

When I have the cable out I'll take some pics and measurements and post back for future reference.

The alternator size doesn't come into play anyway, at least not for the positive cable. The negative cable does provide the ground path back to the negative battery post for the alternator (which is grounded to the engine block, and that short run of 2 gauge wire is plenty to the extreme; it could handle a few hundred amps with ease), but the positive side of the battery charging circuit is formed by the wire you plan to add between the alternator and starter relay, along with the factory wire from the starter relay to the positive battery post.

If I remember right, you plan to use a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay, which is fine, but if you do so, you should also replace the factory 8 gauge wire that goes from the starter relay to the battery, with matching 6 gauge wire. If you don't, you'll partially defeat the purpose of using 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay; i.e., the lower resistance you get from the 6 gauge wire will be partially negated by the additional resistance of the factory 8 gauge wire.

[Dino]

Thanks Maxim!

I will remove the positive cable and see how long it is, I do think it's a bit longer than what it needs to be.

I 'think' 2 gauge will be plenty for a 90 amp alternator and it would be easier to work with as well.  I'll double check though.

When I have the cable out I'll take some pics and measurements and post back for future reference.

The alternator size doesn't come into play anyway, at least not for the positive cable. The negative cable does provide the ground path back to the negative battery post for the alternator (which is grounded to the engine block, and that short run of 2 gauge wire is plenty to the extreme; it could handle a few hundred amps with ease), but the positive side of the battery charging circuit is formed by the wire you plan to add between the alternator and starter relay, along with the factory wire from the starter relay to the positive battery post.

If I remember right, you plan to use a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay, which is fine, but if you do so, you should also replace the factory 8 gauge wire that goes from the starter relay to the battery, with matching 6 gauge wire. If you don't, you'll partially defeat the purpose of using 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay; i.e., the lower resistance you get from the 6 gauge wire will be partially negated by the additional resistance of the factory 8 gauge wire.

Great information, thanks man!   

I'll be sure to get 6 gauge wire.  The third wire going to the starter is likely an 8 as well then?  Should both branches be 6 ga?

[MaximRecoil]

The third wire going to the starter is likely an 8 as well then?  Should both branches be 6 ga?

Are you referring to the relatively thin wire (looks like 10 or 12 gauge) going from that lower terminal on the starter relay down to the smaller of the two studs on the starter solenoid? If so, it is fine as-is; it isn't part of your charging circuit, nor does it have to handle particularly heavy current. It is simply the trigger wire for the starter solenoid (the starter solenoid is essentially just a big relay capable of handling very high current).

When you turn your key to start the engine, two relays go into action. The first is your starter relay mounted on your firewall, it is triggered by the 16 or 18 gauge yellow wire from your bulkhead connector. That sends juice down that 10 or 12 gauge wire to the starter solenoid attached to your starter, which triggers it to make a connection allowing juice to flow through your positive battery cable, through the starter to crank your engine, and completing its circuit through the engine block and through your negative battery cable to your negative battery post.

[Dino]

Yes, that's the wire.  It is only slightly thinner than the red wire going from positive terminal to relay.  0.19 vs 0.20.  I looked up some conversion charts and those would be a 5 -6 gauge wires.  That seems odd.  Since the wire from alt to relay will be 6 gauge, which I thought would be bigger than that, I would use the same wire plus inline maxi fuse from relay to battery positive terminal.  The wire from relay to small stud on solenoid is frayed at the bottom so I was going to replace it with an 8 gauge wire.  Am I measuring the wires wrong or am I ready to order even thinner wires here?  I'm confused.

This is the triple wire mess, there's some fuel line over the bottom part to protect the wires from the header.  Still looks like a mess underneath as you can see.  I'll need something a bit more effective to protect the new wiring.

Can anyone confirm that the lug needed for the large stud on the starter solenoid is 5/16?  Anyone know what the small one is?  Oh and the wire running from solenoid to relay has a spade connector on the relay, what size is that one?

[Dino]

more

[Canadian1968]

The wire you have running from the postive battery to your starter relay, is not 6 gauge.  I just replaced mine with 8 gauge wire, and it is bigger than what was on there. Would 6 be over kill?? Not at all but its is a bit harder to find, at least for me it is.

You said the wire from the relay to the the solenoid on the starter.  As mentioned these are more or less trigger wires 10 would be fine 8 is more than you need really.

Your wondierng about sizes, just cut off the ends and take them with you to the parts store. Line'em up !!!  Most stores now have reference boards for bolt/ nut/ screw sizes now.

[MaximRecoil]

Yes, that's the wire.  It is only slightly thinner than the red wire going from positive terminal to relay.  0.19 vs 0.20.  I looked up some conversion charts and those would be a 5 -6 gauge wires.  That seems odd.  Since the wire from alt to relay will be 6 gauge, which I thought would be bigger than that, I would use the same wire plus inline maxi fuse from relay to battery positive terminal.  The wire from relay to small stud on solenoid is frayed at the bottom so I was going to replace it with an 8 gauge wire.  Am I measuring the wires wrong or am I ready to order even thinner wires here?  I'm confused.

That trigger wire going from the starter relay to the smaller of the two studs on the starter solenoid is 10 gauge at the most. There is a difference between the diameter of the copper conductor vs. the diameter of the wire including the insulation. Wire gauge charts go by the size of the conductor, because that is all that matters for electrical conductivity. If the conductor were .19" in diameter, that would make it between 4 and 5 gauge wire, which is about the size of your stock battery cables, and it isn't anywhere near that size. You can't measure the conductor without cutting the wire, but you can tell by looking at it that it is no bigger than 10 gauge and no smaller than 12 gauge.

There is no need to replace that trigger wire if it is still in good shape; but if you want to replace it anyway, you'll need a ring terminal on one end sized for I'm guessing a #10 stud, and the spade terminal (horseshoe shape) on the other end is probably sized for a #10 stud too. 10 gauge wire is plenty.

Can anyone confirm that the lug needed for the large stud on the starter solenoid is 5/16?

Yes, it definitely is.

Anyone know what the small one is?

As mentioned above, #10 (about 3/16") is my guess.

Oh and the wire running from solenoid to relay has a spade connector on the relay, what size is that one?

Probably #10 as well. If you go to the hardware store and pick up a spade and ring terminal for a #10 stud for a few cents you can find out for sure, but I'd almost bet on it being #10, which sucks, because you have to be very careful tightening the nut on that tiny solenoid stud or you'll strip it. I'd prefer they'd used a 1/4" stud, just for the sake of durability.

[Dino]

Agreed on the relay, I was very careful with it and that probable saved it.

Thanks for the numbers, I think I have everything I need now to order.  Although I need to look up what all I need for the headlight relay upgrade.  Might as well go full out!

What do you think about this fuse holder?  I like that you can bolt it to the firewall to make it look neat and not have any strain on the wires.  Seeing I have a 90 amp alt, I guess a 100 amp fuse is more than plenty but they go up as high as 250 amps.

http://www.delcity.net/store/MEGA-Fuse-Holder/p_795652

http://www.delcity.net/store/search/p_800374.h_800375.t_1.n_y.jsp?search=87250&x=14&y=9

[MaximRecoil]

Agreed on the relay, I was very careful with it and that probable saved it.

Thanks for the numbers, I think I have everything I need now to order.  Although I need to look up what all I need for the headlight relay upgrade.  Might as well go full out!

Two ISO relays, also known as "Bosch Relays". I used a pair of these, because the plugs are good quality, and the wires coming out of the plugs are all good quality as well, 14 gauge, thick flexible insulation, tinned copper strands. If you want to get "fussy" about it though, remove the wires/terminals that come with it from the plug, and crimp new female terminals (using open barrel crimpers) on the ends of the wires you will be running to the relay, and snap them into the plug housings (prevents having to splice).  

If you're planning to bypass your ammeter, then the easiest place to source the power for the headlights via the relays is the positive battery terminal, because right near the battery is the best place to mount the relays (it is close to the headlights and existing headlight wiring). I mounted mine on the radiator chair (you can also mount the relays under the battery tray if you want them out of sight, though it makes it more of a pain to replace a relay if you ever need to), and used a 30 amp self-resetting thermal circuit breaker (Bussmann CBC-30HB) on the 10 gauge power wire from the battery, instead of a fuse:



If you plan to keep your ammeter hooked up, you need to source the power from the alternator side of things, i.e., the alternator output stud if you want to maintain accuracy.  

What do you think about this fuse holder?  I like that you can bolt it to the firewall to make it look neat and not have any strain on the wires.  Seeing I have a 90 amp alt, I guess a 100 amp fuse is more than plenty but they go up as high as 250 amps.

http://www.delcity.net/store/MEGA-Fuse-Holder/p_795652

http://www.delcity.net/store/search/p_800374.h_800375.t_1.n_y.jsp?search=87250&x=14&y=9

That's the same idea as an ANL fuse holder. I'd prefer an ANL fuse holder simply because replacement ANL fuses are available at any car audio store, so they may be easier to find than Mega Fuses. Since ANL fuses are popular in the car audio world, you can get them with gold plated contacts (I don't know if Mega Fuses are available that way or not), which is nice for corrosion resistance. Here is a comparison between ANL and Mega Fuses. As it says there, ANL fuses are used primarily for cabling protection, which is exactly what you are using a fuse for in this case.

I like the looks of that fuse holder on their site too (link); looks sturdy and functional; glass-filled nylon base (very tough), stainless steel and nickel-plated copper hardware, cover included; good stuff. I suggest the 5/16" post size, because ANL fuses are most commonly available for that size post. But you can get an ANL fuse holder at any car audio store too (maybe boating/marine type stores too), though car audio products tend to have more "bling" than you may want, and sometimes it's a case of style over substance.

[Dino]

Thanks for all that!   

I'm mounting the relays in the location you posted or very close to it.  I'm not sticking them under the tray for the same reason.  I'm am also bypassing the ammeter.  I need to check the wiring diagram to see if I can do away with the red wire there. 

I contacted the company that is going to make my other wires and they can put a 2 gauge and a 6 gauge in one positive copper battery terminal.  I was going to stick a fuse on the 6 gauge going from battery to relay per our conversation.  Should I change that?  I don't know if there's room in that terminal to cram a third wire in so I guess I need to add it to the bolt tightening the terminal?  IU don't need any bling but I do want everything looking clean and professional and as safe as possible.  I'd like to do this only once!   

[MaximRecoil]

I need to check the wiring diagram to see if I can do away with the red wire there.

The red wire from one side of the ammeter? Going from memory, I believe you need that wire to complete the circuits of the wiring that is powering your interior stuff. The easiest way to bypass the ammeter is to just put both the ammeter wires onto one post of the ammeter (doesn't matter which post).

I contacted the company that is going to make my other wires and they can put a 2 gauge and a 6 gauge in one positive copper battery terminal.  I was going to stick a fuse on the 6 gauge going from battery to relay per our conversation.  Should I change that?  I don't know if there's room in that terminal to cram a third wire in so I guess I need to add it to the bolt tightening the terminal?  IU don't need any bling but I do want everything looking clean and professional and as safe as possible.  I'd like to do this only once!  

By "third wire", are you referring to the one for powering your headlights via the relays? I used the bolt tightening the terminal for that, but if you go with a Mega Fuse or ANL fuse holder, you could also just tap in there on the post that would be unfused relative to the battery (i.e., the post that the short section of 6 gauge wire from the battery terminal is connected to). If you want everything to look integrated, you could have them crimp a 10 gauge wire in with the 5/16" hole lug that's on the end of the short section of 6 gauge wire from the battery.  

[Dino]

I need to check the wiring diagram to see if I can do away with the red wire there.

The red wire from one side of the ammeter? Going from memory, I believe you need that wire to complete the circuits of the wiring that is powering your interior stuff. The easiest way to bypass the ammeter is to just put both the ammeter wires onto one post of the ammeter (doesn't matter which post).

I contacted the company that is going to make my other wires and they can put a 2 gauge and a 6 gauge in one positive copper battery terminal.  I was going to stick a fuse on the 6 gauge going from battery to relay per our conversation.  Should I change that?  I don't know if there's room in that terminal to cram a third wire in so I guess I need to add it to the bolt tightening the terminal?  IU don't need any bling but I do want everything looking clean and professional and as safe as possible.  I'd like to do this only once!  

By "third wire", are you referring to the one for powering your headlights via the relays? I used the bolt tightening the terminal for that, but if you go with a Mega Fuse or ANL fuse holder, you could also just tap in there on the post that would be unfused relative to the battery (i.e., the post that the short section of 6 gauge wire from the battery terminal is connected to). If you want everything to look integrated, you could have them crimp a 10 gauge wire in with the 5/16" hole lug that's on the end of the short section of 6 gauge wire from the battery.  

Yes the red wire from the ammeter.  I wasn't sure if I needed it anymore or not, guess I do!  I'm going to replace the ammeter with a volt meter but not right now.  Can I simply connect black and red with a short bolt and put some marine heat shrink over it instead?  I can stick them both on one post for now but when the ammeter goes then I'd have to change it anyway.

I did indeed mean the power wire for the headlights with third wire.  So I could bolt it onto the positive terminal or bolt it to the starter relay.  Does that one need a fuse?  I need to look at the diagram again, I just gave myself a headache.

I will try to make a schematic and post it to make sure I got everything right.

[MaximRecoil]

Can I simply connect black and red with a short bolt and put some marine heat shrink over it instead?

Yes.

I did indeed mean the power wire for the headlights with third wire.  So I could bolt it onto the positive terminal or bolt it to the starter relay.  Does that one need a fuse?  I need to look at the diagram again, I just gave myself a headache.

I will try to make a schematic and post it to make sure I got everything right.

The power wire for the relay/headlights could bolt to the starter relay stud, but that's a longer run than is necessary. Connecting it to the unfused fuse holder stud or to the positive battery terminal bolt would be much closer.

Your positive battery terminal will have two wires crimped into it: a 2 gauge wire that goes to your starter solenoid, and a short 6 gauge wire that will go to one of the studs on your fuse holder (you want to mount the fuse holder as close as you can to the battery, so that 6 gauge wire coming out of your positive battery terminal will be quite short, and it will need a 5/16" hole lug crimped onto it). Now, you could tell them to crimp a 10 gauge wire in with that 5/16" hole lug on the end of the short section of 6 gauge wire, and that will be your power wire to the relay/headlights, like so:



And yes, you should have a fuse or circuit breaker on the 10 gauge wire. If you use a fuse, it is best to use a separate 10 gauge power wire to each relay, with a fuse on each one, that way, if one fuse blows when you have your high beams on, you can switch to low beams and have lights, and vice versa. With a self-resetting circuit breaker, it isn't necessary to have two of them, though you can if you want.

[Dino]

Oh that makes sense!   

Instead of having the fuse all the way at the firewall, I need to place it as close as possible to the battery.  Good thing I hadn't ordered the wires yet!  I think I'll do exactly as you drew up, that looks to be a nice, clean solution.  Thanks Maxim!   

[MaximRecoil]

Oh that makes sense!   

Instead of having the fuse all the way at the firewall, I need to place it as close as possible to the battery.  Good thing I hadn't ordered the wires yet!  I think I'll do exactly as you drew up, that looks to be a nice, clean solution.  Thanks Maxim!   

Yeah, placing the fuse as close to the battery as you can results in the least amount of unprotected wire. A dead short to ground will always pull current between the point of the dead short and the battery, so the closer the fuse is to the battery, the less chance there is of a dead short happening in the unprotected section of wire between the fuse and the battery.

A dead short is highly unlikely provided you carefully route your cables away from any metal edges that they could abrade on, but in the event of a car accident, all bets are off. When the steel of your car's grounded chassis starts bending and crumpling, it can pinch through a hot wire anywhere, which can result in a fire if there is no fuse or fusible link between the dead short and the battery. No one wants to have a car accident of course, but a fire makes a car accident even worse, especially if fuel is leaking nearby (which can also easily happen in a car accident).

[Dino]

Oh that makes sense!   

Instead of having the fuse all the way at the firewall, I need to place it as close as possible to the battery.  Good thing I hadn't ordered the wires yet!  I think I'll do exactly as you drew up, that looks to be a nice, clean solution.  Thanks Maxim!   

Yeah, placing the fuse as close to the battery as you can results in the least amount of unprotected wire. A dead short to ground will always pull current between the point of the dead short and the battery, so the closer the fuse is to the battery, the less chance there is of a dead short happening in the unprotected section of wire between the fuse and the battery.

A dead short is highly unlikely provided you carefully route your cables away from any metal edges that they could abrade on, but in the event of a car accident, all bets are off. When the steel of your car's grounded chassis starts bending and crumpling, it can pinch through a hot wire anywhere, which can result in a fire if there is no fuse or fusible link between the dead short and the battery. No one wants to have a car accident of course, but a fire makes a car accident even worse, especially if fuel is leaking nearby (which can also easily happen in a car accident).

Agreed on all counts! 

I will be doing final measuring of wires tonight once I find a good spot for the ANL fuse holder.

The following is for myself, I have so many notes on this it's a bit confusing.   

So instead of ordering a long 6 gauge wire to go from positive battery terminal to relay, I will have two 6 gauge wires for that as they are interrupted by the anl fuse, one short and one long.  The short one starts at the terminal (crimped in with the 2 ga positive cable) and goes to the ANL fuse where the 10 ga wire gets crimped in the 5/16 lug with the end of the short 6 ga wire.  The longer part of the 6 ga wire goes from the fuse holder to the starter relay so 5/16 lugs on either end.

One question:  The busman 30 amp breaker, what size studs does that one have?  5/16 as well?  I'm sure I'll have to make some wiring of my won to tie everything in, but the more these marine guys can do the better.

[MaximRecoil]

So instead of ordering a long 6 gauge wire to go from positive battery terminal to relay, I will have two 6 gauge wires for that as they are interrupted by the anl fuse, one short and one long.  The short one starts at the terminal (crimped in with the 2 ga positive cable) and goes to the ANL fuse where the 10 ga wire gets crimped in the 5/16 lug with the end of the short 6 ga wire.  The longer part of the 6 ga wire goes from the fuse holder to the starter relay so 5/16 lugs on either end.

That's all correct, except you need three 6 gauge wires:

1. Alternator to starter relay (1/4" lug on one end, 5/16" lug on the other)
2. Starter relay to ANL fuse holder (5/16" lug on both ends)
3. Short section crimped in with the positive battery terminal, to the ANL fuse holder (5/16" lug on the end, which will also have a 10 gauge wire crimped in the same lug)

This is what your battery charging circuit will look like (and it will be a good one):

One question:  The busman 30 amp breaker, what size studs does that one have?  5/16 as well?  I'm sure I'll have to make some wiring of my won to tie everything in, but the more these marine guys can do the better.

No, they are small; #10 stud, which is roughly 3/16". Anything smaller than 1/4" goes to a numbering system; #10 being one size down from 1/4". Here is a chart - link.

[Dino]

Ah yes, the one 6 ga wire going from alt to relay may be quite important as well.      Funny thing is, that's the one it all started with!   

Thanks for that link!  You have taught me a lot about all this.  Many thanks to you.      

All that is left, for now  , is to decide where to put the anl fuse holder.  What do you think about that 'ditch' that's pressed into the inner fender?  There's quite a bit of clearance between it and the battery, easy access and the best bet to stay clean.  I could place it lower, close or onto the shock tower or even right on top next to the fender tag, but the gulley may hide it nicely and house the wring well.  It also goes straight to the radiator support where the relays will go.  Hmm, maybe I should put the ANL right onto the rad support.  It'll be near invisible.  That's the length of the battery away, is that close enough? 

Was it easier to tie into the headlight wiring on the driver's side?  I know some tap the power from the alternator and go in from the passenger side.  Seems to me the first option is better but I have found too many diagrams for this and need to look for the one I really need.   

[MaximRecoil]

Ah yes, the one 6 ga wire going from alt to relay may be quite important as well.     Funny thing is, that's the one it all started with!  

Thanks for that link!  You have taught me a lot about all this.  Many thanks to you.    

No problem.

All that is left, for now  , is to decide where to put the anl fuse holder.  What do you think about that 'ditch' that's pressed into the inner fender?  There's quite a bit of clearance between it and the battery, easy access and the best bet to stay clean.

That's fine if it will fit there. That's where a factory wiring and vacuum hose (to the headlights) bundle runs anyway; it is there for the purpose of wiring.

I could place it lower, close or onto the shock tower or even right on top next to the fender tag, but the gulley may hide it nicely and house the wring well.  It also goes straight to the radiator support where the relays will go.  Hmm, maybe I should put the ANL right onto the rad support.  It'll be near invisible.  That's the length of the battery away, is that close enough?

The radiator support would be fine too; wherever you can fit it reasonably close to the battery is good.

Was it easier to tie into the headlight wiring on the driver's side?  I know some tap the power from the alternator and go in from the passenger side.  Seems to me the first option is better but I have found too many diagrams for this and need to look for the one I really need.  

The driver's side is best, because that's where the source wiring from the headlight dimmer switch to the headlights runs, and it is closest to the battery (the only reason to use the alternator post to power the relays/headlights is if you have stock charging system wiring and you want your ammeter to remain accurate). Those wires from the headlight dimmer switch to the headlights will become your relay trigger and relay output wires. There are two wires from the dimmer switch out to the headlights, a red one and a blue or purple one with a white stripe. If I remember right, red is high beam and the other is low beam (it may be the other way around; you'd have to double check).

Both of those factory dimmer switch to headlight wires need to be cut, right near where you mount the relays. After cutting, the end of each wire that's connected to the dimmer switch becomes the trigger wire for each relay (relay terminal #86), and the end of each wire that's connected to the headlights becomes the output wire for each relay (relay terminal #87).

Relay terminal #30 is for the power wire (the two wires coming off your circuit breaker go to that terminal on each relay), and relay terminal #85 on each relay goes to ground, which can either be on the chassis or the negative battery terminal bolt. I used the negative battery terminal bolt for mine, as can be seen in the photograph I posted earlier.

Note that most people use the factory wiring for the output of the relays to the headlights, as I described above (that's what I did in my car as well), because it is easy and since you've greatly shortened the length that headlight current has to travel on them, they have less resistance than they did in the factory wiring setup. However, if you want even more improvement, you can replace that relay-to-headlights wiring with new 14 or 12 gauge wiring (and replace the 2 factory headlight ground wires with 14 or 12 gauge as well). This is something I intend to do eventually on my car. I don't need to, because I'm already getting 13.25 volts at the headlight terminals with the high beams on, and ~13 volts is right where halogen headlights are designed to operate at.