Drum Brake rattle!

[cougs]

So this thing is rattling on me.  From this pic it looks like I need a spring but I don't.  Is there a way I can buy just a spring?  How do I get it on there?

If you can tell, drum brakes are Greek to me!!

[MaximRecoil]

I don't understand your post. You say you don't need a spring, but then you ask if you can buy a spring and how to install it.

In any event, I doubt you can buy the springs individually unless you go to a place that works on brakes and they happen to have some extra ones laying around that they would give or sell you. You can get the whole drum brake hardware kit though, which includes all the springs, and it isn't very expensive. The price ranges from about $2 to about $7 on RockAuto right now.

To remove the old hardware and install the new, there are some special tools that are helpful, particularly a tool for reinstalling the return spring and a tool for removing and installing what your picture refers to as "hold down parts", (do a Google search for drum brake tools), though it could probably be done without specialized tools (I wouldn't want to try it without at least having those two specialized tools).

[JB400]

Just to bring to light, when dealing with the drum brakes, you're dealing with asbestos. 

As mentioned, you can buy new spring kits.  Being that you have it apart, you could go ahead and buy new brake shoes as well.  I wouldn't bother buying this stuff online. The local parts store should have everything you need.

Tools needed: a pair of pliers, a straight screw driver, a mallet or hammer, and if you want to cheat a little bit, a c clamp.  They make specialty tools to help, they're not really needed. Waste of money in my book.

To get started, I assume that you have the drum off.  If not, there's a plug in the backing plate. remove it and use the screw driver to rotate the star wheel at the bottom to loosen up the brakes.  It might be necessary to use the mallet to tap on the drum to break it loose from the hub if you're doing the rear.  Start disassembly by removing the adjuster spring and then the adjusting screw.  I remove the hold down pins next.  It might be necessary to tap them lightly with a hammer to break them loose.  Find the pins on the backside and hold them in so you can collapse the spring and give them a quarter turn.  After you remove one shoe, all the innards should be easy to remove.  Do not remove the plunger from the wheel cylinder Next, just remove the other shoe in the same fashion as the other one.

Assembly: I usually start with the shoe that has all the adjustment parts on it.  You need to install those in the correct holes on the shoes.  To install the shoe, slide it into the plunger on the wheel cylinder and then use the clamp to hold the shoe so you can install the hold down pin and spring.  Cheat:If you want to make things a little easier, install the return spring on the shoe first, and when you install the shoe, hook the spring on the pin at the top first.  Make sure the diamond piece is on first though.  Then use the clamp to hold the shoe in place while you install the hold down parts.  Install the cross bar (red arrows) and then install the other shoe as before.  Install the adjuster screw and spring.  Install the return springs if you haven't done so already.  Install the drum, and pat yourself on the back

You may need to adjust the brakes by turning the adjuster wheel at the bottom, but they should do that when you back up.  I usually drive backwards for a short distance anyway at a slow speed and apply the brakes a few times.

Drum brakes are fairly simple and easy to do.  Installing the springs is the part that usually gets everyone frustrated.  Just take your time.  A word of the wise, don't disassemble both sides at the same time.  Do one side at a time so you have a reference.

[MaximRecoil]

They make specialty tools to help, they're not really needed. Waste of money in my book.

Installing the springs is the part that usually gets everyone frustrated.  Just take your time.

Avoiding the frustration of the return springs is what makes the specialty tool not a waste of money. You don't even need to take your time with it, the return springs pop right on with pretty much no effort at all.

And the cups for the hold down pins are a pain as well without this inexpensive tool - link.

[JB400]

Avoiding the frustration of the return springs is what makes the specialty tool not a waste of money. You don't even need to take your time with it, the return springs pop right on with pretty much no effort at all.

And the cups for the hold down pins are a pain as well without this inexpensive tool - link.

Even with the proper tools, you can and will experience a little bit of difficulty.  A person can use a large straight screwdriver to do the same task as you can with the proper tool.  But, if you use my cheat, no special tool is necessary

As far as the tool that involves the hold down pins, it blocks your view of having it turned the right direction as well as to whether or not you got it fastened.  I use a pair of slip joint pliers (you can't use lineman's pliers for this) and just grab it from the sides.  It allows you to see if the pin has been disengaged and if you need to turn it more.

Unless you're a professional like Cooter that does this type of work for a living, I see no justification as to having the specialty tools.  I've had to change the brakes on my daily only once in the 15 years of owning it.  Last time I checked, they're only half gone.  If you don't mind spending money on tools that will only get used once or twice in a lifetime, then feel free to go buy them.  I'd rather just have the money in my pocket to spend elsewhere where it could be more profitable.

[cougs]

Thanks for the input everybody.  I misspoke in my original post.  I do not have the spring and need to install one.  I'll give it a try next weekend

[cougs]

This was very easy.  Only took around 20 minutes total.  Bought the special tool for $8.00 and the springs were $1.65.  Goodbye rattle!