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Complete wiring ('68 Charger)

Started by MxRacer855, September 02, 2013, 02:31:07 PM

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MxRacer855

I was just curious if anyone knows the most complete wring harness I can get for my '68 Charger. Simply put... MY WIRING IS COMPLETELY JACKED. I would love to just replace as much as I can, as easily as I can from front to back. A link would be appreciated too.

Thank you.  ;)

-Jeff

1970Moparmann

Get the one from Yearone.  Yearone is the only place that sells this version.  I put in my 68 Charger and Coronet with no issues.  Great quality! :2thumbs:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

myk

Are you concerned with originality?  Do what I did and install a front-to-back wiring harness from Painless wiring, for example.  I like the blade-fuse type setup and that some of the wiring harness is actually color-coded to match the original harness.  Ditching the ridiculous bulkhead connector system in itself is enough reason for me to ditch the factory harness, although I appreciate the fact that my harness also came pre-wired for electronic distributor, MSD hookup, etc.  Also, if you want to add electrical gadgets or devices to your car, it will be much easier to do so with an after-market wiring system, as your fuse block will always have left-over spots.  Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...

Mopar Nut

Quote from: 1970Moparmann on September 02, 2013, 02:33:11 PM
Get the one from Yearone.  Yearone is the only place that sells this version.  I put in my 68 Charger and Coronet with no issues.  Great quality! :2thumbs:
I second that.
Quote from: myk on September 02, 2013, 02:42:02 PM
  Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...
Not with a 30% off sale.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

MaximRecoil

Quote from: myk on September 02, 2013, 02:42:02 PM
Ditching the ridiculous bulkhead connector system in itself is enough reason for me to ditch the factory harness, although I appreciate the fact that my harness also came pre-wired for electronic distributor, MSD hookup, etc.

What did your harness use in place of the factory-style bulkhead connector?

MxRacer855

Quote from: 1970Moparmann on September 02, 2013, 02:33:11 PM
Get the one from Yearone.  Yearone is the only place that sells this version.  I put in my 68 Charger and Coronet with no issues.  Great quality! :2thumbs:

"The one" from Year One? Or piece together a full harness by buying multiple harnesses?


MxRacer855

Quote from: myk on September 02, 2013, 02:42:02 PM
Are you concerned with originality?  Do what I did and install a front-to-back wiring harness from Painless wiring, for example.  I like the blade-fuse type setup and that some of the wiring harness is actually color-coded to match the original harness.  Ditching the ridiculous bulkhead connector system in itself is enough reason for me to ditch the factory harness, although I appreciate the fact that my harness also came pre-wired for electronic distributor, MSD hookup, etc.  Also, if you want to add electrical gadgets or devices to your car, it will be much easier to do so with an after-market wiring system, as your fuse block will always have left-over spots.  Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...

Can I ask how much you paid for the Painless setup? I just want the most complete kit I can get with a new fuse box. I also like the fact that I can install additional lights and setups with the extra fuse box spaces.

Mopar Nut

Quote from: MxRacer855 on September 02, 2013, 05:13:24 PM
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on September 02, 2013, 02:33:11 PM
Get the one from Yearone.  Yearone is the only place that sells this version.  I put in my 68 Charger and Coronet with no issues.  Great quality! :2thumbs:

"The one" from Year One? Or piece together a full harness by buying multiple harnesses?


Check this out, it'll explain everything you will need to know.

http://www.wiringharness.com/chrysler.htm

YearOne bought the licencing rights from Chrysler for 1964-1974 Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Cars. YO picked M&H to manufacture the harnesses for the plug and play set up. They even have the modified wiring for electronic ignition and six pack set ups.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

MxRacer855

Thanks! I have an electronic ignition right now and a single-wire Powermaster alternator with an internal voltage regulator... I'm going to replace everything electronic in the winter (harnesses, coil, ignition, distributer, plug wires, etc.) in addition to rebuilding my motor with some performance parts to put out around 600-650hp. I'm just a little concerned with how modified my harnesses will have to be to work with these new modifications.

john108


  Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...
[/quote]
Not with a 30% off sale.
[/quote]

BUT THEY WILL KILL YOU WITH SHIPPING COSTS!!

Mopar Nut

Quote from: john108 on September 11, 2013, 02:12:01 PM

 Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...
Not with a 30% off sale.
[/quote]

BUT THEY WILL KILL YOU WITH SHIPPING COSTS!!
[/quote]
I bought the whole wiring set for my Charger, shipping from YO was only $22.00. This included all of the harnesses to rewire my car.

ARE YOU CHEAP!

BUY A MUSTANG!
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

JB400

Classic Industries is selling the harnesses as well.

Ghoste

The repro ones may not be cheap but it is some of the best money you will ever spend on the car

suburbanfireman

Hi jeff.  I'm in the middle of rewiring my 68 today and found this post.  If I may add my  :Twocents:  I originally purchased the painless kit from summit racing - only to find that I need to purchase or salvage every single connector / bulb socket / plugs.  My original stuff was ruined so I needed to buy all new plugs, sockets, connectors, etc.    The price is about the same as the year one harness (purchased 30% off on Father's Day) - but it is plug & play for a stock setup.  I too have a bunch of aftermarket stuff - ignition, distributor, etc.  I realized that I had the wrong engine harness (it came with the car - long story) - and found a great little mom & pop company called Evans Wiring out of Erie PA.  The owner Bill Evans set me up with the correct harness, and identified my incorrect harness so I can sell it on eBay.  His prices are better than year one, and his stuff is really nice.  I wish I would have used him for all of my stuff!  His phone number is (814) 864-2622 - it will answer to his excavation business.  Just leave a message and he will call you back.  His website is http://www.evanswiring.com/contact.htm

He is a Mopar nut, so he understands our illness.  Good luck with the rewire - Tim.

Tim "The Toolman" Taylor: "I think I might be addicted to cars."

Jill Taylor: "Well, DUH!"

Tim "The Toolman" Taylor: "I'm thinking about checking myself into the Henry Ford Clinic!"

myk

Quote from: MaximRecoil on September 02, 2013, 05:06:44 PM
Quote from: myk on September 02, 2013, 02:42:02 PM
Ditching the ridiculous bulkhead connector system in itself is enough reason for me to ditch the factory harness, although I appreciate the fact that my harness also came pre-wired for electronic distributor, MSD hookup, etc.

What did your harness use in place of the factory-style bulkhead connector?

Oops, didn't see these replies.  The wiring just runs directly from the fuse box, through the firewall and then to whatever component.  I'm no electrician but I figure that fewer connections between power sources and their respective components makes a more reliable setup; someone educate me if I'm wrong.

Quote from: MxRacer855 on September 02, 2013, 05:15:17 PM


Can I ask how much you paid for the Painless setup? I just want the most complete kit I can get with a new fuse box. I also like the fact that I can install additional lights and setups with the extra fuse box spaces.

I think it was around $500, give or take.  I realize that repro harnesses are plug and play but I wanted to eliminate the bulkhead connectors and have a fuse box that uses modern blade fuses...

MaximRecoil

Quote from: myk on September 14, 2013, 01:15:57 AM

Oops, didn't see these replies.  The wiring just runs directly from the fuse box, through the firewall and then to whatever component.  I'm no electrician but I figure that fewer connections between power sources and their respective components makes a more reliable setup; someone educate me if I'm wrong.

What did you do about the big hole in the firewall from where the bulkhead connector was mounted? Is this the hole that you used to run your wire bundle through? If so, what did you use for a grommet or whatever to protect the wires from the edges of the hole and to provide a clean appearance?

And yes, your setup is more reliable and has less resistance than the factory bulkhead connector setup. The advantage that the bulkhead connector setup has is that it makes for a convenient point of testing circuits and identifying which wires go where without having to trace them out.

bull

Quote from: Mopar Nut on September 02, 2013, 02:48:49 PM
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on September 02, 2013, 02:33:11 PM
Get the one from Yearone.  Yearone is the only place that sells this version.  I put in my 68 Charger and Coronet with no issues.  Great quality! :2thumbs:
I second that.
Quote from: myk on September 02, 2013, 02:42:02 PM
  Finally.........those reproduction harnesses are EXPENSIVE...
Not with a 30% off sale.

Well, it's still expensive but the $300 some-odd savings makes it so much better.

K9COP

I used Rebel Wire for my harness, $220 all in, excellent tech support.. Made up a plate to go over the bulkhead hole and put the wire bundle through a grommet through that. Wires labeled (printed on wire) every 6" so no tracing necessary. I can rest easy that my car has all new wiring throughout (I've even replaced the steering column connectors) and I've moved the battery to the trunk, with a battery isolator switch on the front face of the centre console.

To be fair, the wiring was about the only original part of my car, so I'm not too worried about originality and I'm glad to see the back of it. Only connector I used was onto the printed circuit board on the back of the dash.

K9
I'd rather push a Charger than drive a Mustang.. which is lucky..

My cars:
'69/70 Charger 440
'03 Range Rover
'05 Audi A8R
'93 Lotus Omega (SOLD)
'97 Jag U Are XK8 (For Sale)
'68 Charger 318 (for sale)
'74ish Charger 400Magnum (sold)
'89 Nissan Skyline GTR (sold)
'92 Jeep Cherokee 9" lift (sold)
95 Crown Victoria Police K9 unit work car! (in the great impound lot in the sky..)

MaximRecoil

Quote from: K9COP on September 19, 2013, 07:38:49 PM
Only connector I used was onto the printed circuit board on the back of the dash.

How did you connect the wires to stuff like the headlight switch, dimmer wheel, alternator, regulator, and so on? Did you solder them directly to the terminals?

K9COP

Sorry. I should have made myself more clear.  England vs. America language barrier again.... :eyes: The only connector I REused was the one on the back of the dash....

K9
I'd rather push a Charger than drive a Mustang.. which is lucky..

My cars:
'69/70 Charger 440
'03 Range Rover
'05 Audi A8R
'93 Lotus Omega (SOLD)
'97 Jag U Are XK8 (For Sale)
'68 Charger 318 (for sale)
'74ish Charger 400Magnum (sold)
'89 Nissan Skyline GTR (sold)
'92 Jeep Cherokee 9" lift (sold)
95 Crown Victoria Police K9 unit work car! (in the great impound lot in the sky..)