Engine wont turn-now not even a click

[Dodgerdallas]

I had to remove the alternator and when I replaced it the hot wire momentarily touched the engine and sparked,when I tried to start it it made a short "womp" turnover then nothing,after taking a short look and trying again turning the key nothing but a puff of smoke coming from the starter side-again not even a click.I haven't tried again till I talked to you guys to see if I may have fried something.I took pos cable off just in case of short-and checked batt-good

[A383Wing]

first off, stop working on electrical without first disconnecting the battery cable.

does anything work in the car? Lights? Horn? etc.....

possible you burnt out the fuse-able link or bulkhead connector...yer gonna need to find out where you got power or not

[Dodgerdallas]

the horn works,all Ive tried

[myk]

Yes, check the fusible link by the bulkhead connectors and wiring harness as well as the bulkhead connectors themselves...

[Dodgerdallas]

Ill do it my friend thanks

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Yes, ALWAYS disconnect the negative battery cable when ever working on the electrical system! As others have stated my bet is you blew the fusible link. Hopefully you didn't damage the dashboard ammeter.You might want to consider replacing the fusible link with a 50 or 60 amp Maxi-Fuse in a fuse holder. The fusible links can be a pain to replace is some models as one end is crimped into a bulkhead connector pin. If you do replace the link you need a #16 gauge Blue section of link

[Dodgerdallas]

You know what I'll never do again?-work on anything electrical w/o disconnecting the battery first...Jesus I'm getting whipped from 2 different websites,hey thanks for the info sir and it was the fuse link-burned right through the dang thing. Hey what do u mean by 16 ga blue section...what is the blue part?

[MaximRecoil]

You know what I'll never do again?-work on anything electrical w/o disconnecting the battery first...Jesus I'm getting whipped from 2 different websites,hey thanks for the info sir and it was the fuse link-burned right through the dang thing. Hey what do u mean by 16 ga blue section...what is the blue part?

"16 ga blue section" just refers to the color and size of the fusible link, to help you find it in your car. Since you've already determined that the fusible link is blown, you've already found it.

In order to properly replace the fusible link, you need:

• Crimping tool for 14-16 gauge open barrel terminals
• Packard/Delphi 56 Series 14-16 gauge male terminal
• 14-16 gauge ring terminal for a 5/16" stud
• ~3" length of 16 gauge fusible link wire

Remove the original blown fusible link from the bulkhead connector by sliding a thin flat piece of metal into the connector cavity to release the fusible link's terminal's locking tab and pull it out. It is hard to explain how to do this; it takes some trial and error if you've never done it before; just be careful not to damage the plastic connector housing.

Once you have the old terminal out of the plastic housing, remove the nut on the starter relay and this will free your blown fusible link so you can remove it.

Now just make a copy of it by crimping a new Packard 56 terminal on one end of your new section of fusible link wire, and a new ring terminal on the other end. Snap the Packard 56 end into the empty cavity in the bulkhead connector, and place the ring terminal end back over the starter relay stud and tighten the nut back down.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal before doing any of this, of course.

[Nacho-RT74]

or... buy the fuse link already done

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/electrical-wiring/switches-fuses/fuses/

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mb1802.html

[MaximRecoil]

or... buy the fuse link already done

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/electrical-wiring/switches-fuses/fuses/

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mb1802.html

Yes, at about 21× the cost of making one yourself, or about the same cost as buying open barrel terminal crimpers and making one yourself.

The ridiculous overpricing that goes on in the "restoration parts" business is one of my pet peeves. They are among the worst offenders out there, even worse than "factory parts" pricing from Ford, GM, Chrysler, and most other car manufacturers.

[myk]

You know what I'll never do again?-work on anything electrical w/o disconnecting the battery first...Jesus I'm getting whipped from 2 different websites,hey thanks for the info sir and it was the fuse link-burned right through the dang thing. Hey what do u mean by 16 ga blue section...what is the blue part?

Don't fret man; we've all done things we're not proud of when it comes to fixing our own cars.  You ever forget to torque down your lug nuts and then drive off in your car?  Yeah, I've done that one...

[Nacho-RT74]

or... buy the fuse link already done

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/electrical-wiring/switches-fuses/fuses/

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mb1802.html

Yes, at about 21× the cost of making one yourself, or about the same cost as buying open barrel terminal crimpers and making one yourself.

The ridiculous overpricing that goes on in the "restoration parts" business is one of my pet peeves. They are among the worst offenders out there, even worse than "factory parts" pricing from Ford, GM, Chrysler, and most other car manufacturers.

totally agreed, but the option is there. If you want to get a correct look car, these use to have the FUSE LINK rubber "flag" and terminals isolation, which could be the only reason why spend that money of course.

[MaximRecoil]

totally agreed, but the option is there. If you want to get a correct look car, these use to have the FUSE LINK rubber "flag" and terminals isolation, which could be the only reason why spend that money of course.

Yes, if someone wants the factory look, I suppose they'll have to spend the $21, although you could get pretty close to the factory look by buying a generic premade 16 gauge fusible link from the local autoparts store (those have the rubber FUSIBLE LINK "flag" on them) for a couple of dollars and then cutting off the butt connector from the other end and crimping on a male Packard 56 terminal (total cost: under $3). The differences would be that it wouldn't have that rubber plug/boot/whatever-it-is at the base of the Packard 56 terminal, and the color of the insulation may not be exactly right. That's what I did in my car to replace a previous owner's hack job (he had spliced in some ordinary primary wire instead of fusible link wire, and it wasn't even a good quality splice). 

[Nacho-RT74]

interesting! didn't know they were available on local auto parts stores with the label... not here ( Venezuela ) definitelly. In fact not even fus links anymore. I just got the luck to find a full 16 gauge roll on an old Mopar dealer.

I'd like to get couple or three of 14 gauge fuse links with the label.

[MaximRecoil]

interesting! didn't know they were available on local auto parts stores with the label... not here ( Venezuela ) definitelly. In fact not even fus links anymore. I just got the luck to find a full 16 gauge roll on an old Mopar dealer.

I'd like to get couple or three of 14 gauge fuse links with the label.

You can get them with the label here - link for $2.59, but I don't know if they would ship to Venezuela or what the shipping cost would be if they did. They sell premade fusible links with the rubber label at both of the autoparts stores in my small town. The one I bought for my car was a 16 gauge one made by Standard Motor Products, part number HP3160. I simply cut off the butt connector and crimped on a Packard 56 terminal:



They are generally available in 18, 16, and 14 gauge, and are only a couple of dollars.

[Nacho-RT74]

I ship to Florida untill get toghether lot of stuff and shipp overseas then. Thanks for the link!!!!!

I'd like to find it in Blue, or black at least, but seems the 14 gauge is only green ?

[MaximRecoil]

The ones with the flag-shaped label are probably all made by the same company, regardless of which company ultimately puts their brand name on it, so they are probably all green for the 14 gauge size. There is one on eBay that appears to be black, but its rubber label is just a cylinder shape rather than a flag shape (link.

[Nacho-RT74]

that is also at the first link you posted. The blue thing is the splice sleeve and plastic boot isolator, like this

http://www.repairconnector.com/products/-GM-Starter-Solenoid-Fusible-Link-14-Gauge-.html

this would be the perfect one, but 14:

http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Chrysler-Universal-Fusible-Link-Black-18-Gauge.html

[Dodgerdallas]

Man Nacho RT74,thats some nice looking wiring on that firewall-mines frightening looking

[Nacho-RT74]

not mine LOL