Correct master cylinder manual disc?

[TXcharger70]

I was wondering if guys might have a part # or tell me what year would be the best master cylinder to get for my manual front drum to manual front disc conversion. I have looked at Napa but not sure which would be the correct one. It list one for 1970 manual nmcp1874m but I see members using them from different years. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[71charger_fan]

I'm running a RAYBESTOS MC36406 from Rockauto

[bull]

I can't say for certain this is the ideal master cyl but this Napa Tru Stop is what I'm using.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,30312.0.html

[TXcharger70]

Is that for manual brakes or power

[b5blue]

Manual Disk one year (71) only. It's longer. Contact "The Ramman" he has them.   

[bull]

Is that for manual brakes or power

Don't know. I'm using it for manual.

[b5blue]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-DISC-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-FOR-MANUAL-APPLICATIONS-ONLY-A-B-E-BODY-/390610740565?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af236e555&vxp=mtr

[TXcharger70]

Wow $240 that's steep

[b5blue]

It's mentioned in here somewhere: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

[bull]

It's mentioned in here somewhere: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

Ehrenberg points out that the pedal pressure is a preference thing, not a live-or-die issue as some would have us believe. From that article: "What to do if your car doesn't have a power booster? Simple. Forget it! Unless you have a 5,000-pound wagon, you'll do just fine without it. You can tailor the pedal pressure to your liking by playing with master cylinder diameters. Smaller cylinder = less pedal pressure required. Larger cylinder = "harder" pedal, less travel. In any case, if you are either staying with, or swapping to, a manual cylinder, be sure that the unit you use has the machined recess in the back of the piston for the rubber pedal-pushrod retaining ring. Most rebuilt master cylinders we've inspected all have this recess. Then, reinstall the pushrod salvaged from your original (drum) cylinder, with a new rubber retaining ring (Mopar p/n 2074960, discontinued, but they are usually supplied with most rebuilt master cylinders)."

[b5blue]

I have a topic here somewhere from my (drum) convert to manual, I just used the same master and pressure is fine. The peddle sits higher at rest, but you get use to it. I have one of the correct master cylinders for manual disk from Ram man that I traded my booster stuff for. (Waiting for conversion.) 

[elacruze]

http://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html



I used this one and I'm very happy with both the power and the pedal pressure. It's one size either larger or smaller than Erenberg's specific recommendation, but as he says it's personal preference. It's inexpensive and it works. I do recommend buying a heat shield for it, as I've seen comments about melting the reservoir and I had the seals between the res and body go hard and leak on mine-it seems only to be a problem when you have extremely hot headers. Summit sells the shield, Mancini too for about $45.

[b5blue]

That unit was/is my "back-up" plan. 

[TXcharger70]

What bore size? I know smaller bore less pressure required and bigger= more foot pressure required. Any recommendations for my manual disc no Booster.

[TXcharger70]

I went a head and purchased RAYBESTOS MC36406 it has a 15/16 bore. We will see how it performs. I should have it this Friday and hopefully I have some time this weekend to install it. Any Tricks on bench bleeding the mc you guys could recommend?

[elacruze]

I'm usually too lazy to do it this way and have never been forced to but it's the easiest and cleanest. Just buy some brake tubing, cut and bend it to return back into the reservoir. Then just pump it until the fluid doesn't have any bubbles in it.

[TXcharger70]

Thanks. I think I will be doing it the same way. I just though of something. Since I am installing willwood adjustable proportioning valve do I have to remove my old drum brake distribution block or just leave it connected?

[71charger_fan]

The Raybestos was the one Dr. Diff recommended when I bought my rear disk kit from him. It's been great.

[elacruze]

Thanks. I think I will be doing it the same way. I just though of something. Since I am installing willwood adjustable proportioning valve do I have to remove my old drum brake distribution block or just leave it connected?

You can leave it connected. Some of them have residual pressure valves in them, which held the wheel cylinder cups in place before they put expanders in them. It won't hurt anything to have them in there in any case. Plus I think it contains the failure warning light switch too. With Chrysler discs, calipers and rear drums (and Porterfield street brake pads) I never have had to consider a proportioning valve.

[cougs]

This is the M/C cylinder I used for my 68 with a manual disc conversion.  The pedal is very firm...maybe too firm.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/101404/01292.oap?year=1970&make=Plymouth&model=Fury&vi=1232480&ck=Search_01292_1232480_-1&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

[TXcharger70]

I just got my mc in but I notice it didn't come with the dust boot for the mc rod/firewall (pushrod bushing). Do most auto parts stores carry these or do I have to order it from Mancini

[b5blue]

Here is my topic: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,70877.0.html
  Look this over and compare parts.