rear wheel studs, how are they attached?

[Lord Warlock]

Today i removed a wheel that had been on the car a very long time, first off i notice that one of the studs on the hub isn't there and neither was a lug nut, but that could have been like that for 10 years or more.  When i was installing the new wheel and tire, a second stud came loose and pushed through the hub and sounded like it fell into the inside of the rear brake assembly, are these press fitted into the drum brake cover? or is there an axle behind the drum I get to play with? I haven't had the drum brakes opened in a long long time, I do have a wheel puller somewhere in the garage, but the drum isn't coming off without alot of elbow grease or use of a puller.  Felt pretty stuck on.

Just trying to figure out what i'm looking at, before i pull the hub, and catch one of the brake springs in the forehead if i start messing with them.  I'd rather let a shop I know of rebuild them for me, always hated working on drum brakes, fronts were discs and were alot simpler. 

[Mopar Nut]

They are pressed onto the axle, I had mine done that way. Or you can use a lug nut and some washers to pull it into the axle.

[bull]

Yes, it's a press fit. There are splines around the base of the stud that grab on to holes in the axle flange.

[myk]

They are pressed onto the axle, I had mine done that way. Or you can use a lug nut and some washers to pull it into the axle.

That's the best way to do it.  I had to do the exact same thing for my '99 Firebird because 'Discount over-torqued my lug nuts.  Pass the stud through hole, place some washers on the other side to ensure that you pull the stud straight, place a lug nut on the stud and then slowly work your breaker bar or whatever as if you were tightening the lug nut on the wheel itself.  The stud should be pulled into place just fine...

[Lord Warlock]

It is definitely something to do once i move the stealth out of the garage and i have a little room to work with, getting the rear drum off is going to be a fun job, they stuck in place at one point in time, although i don't think they're stuck anymore (car drove into the garage as it sits), its just getting closer to where i can pull it out and have it towed to a shop to do a few things I'd want a lift to do myself, or pay someone else to do.  Mainly the brake lines and fuel lines. 

At least the studs won't be lost, they should both be sitting inside the hub.

[Cooter]

I have seen where idiots leave/allow lug nuts to get loose and cause lug stud press fit to wallow out the spline area causing stud to have to be tack welded from back side....

[Lord Warlock]

Ordered new rear drums, (and new rotors for the front) from yearone.  this was an expensive weekend for the charger,  spent 1500+ bucks on tires, wheels, and now brake parts.  The drums were probably salvagable, but figure new ones would be better, also ordered new shoes for them just in case. 

If i have to tack weld them in place from the rear, I can do that, i'd just prefer not to if i don't have to.  With my luck, i'd warp the axles from heat.  then i'd have to replace those too.  Still have a few more expensive fixes to go, such as gas tank, windshield, and trunk floor.  The trunk floor is only bad in the center, the sides are fine, but i'll probably have to order a whole floor piece to cut out what i need, haven't seen anyone selling the center section by itself.   

[JB400]

Do you have access to a bead roller?  If so, you could just make your own.  Just a suggestion.

[Dmichels]

green Loctie is good for this if you have a bad hole.
Dave

[Lord Warlock]

nope no bead roller available,  green loctie or is that loctite?

From the looks of things i'll be needing to get 5 RH threaded studs, as I just started swapping out the disc rotors up front and both are RH threads, so now i'll have three wheels with RH and 1 wheel with LH,so it makes more sense to just replace the studs with RH threads to make everything the same.  One more thing to buy or order ....lol,  got the first rotor on today and realized damn i need bearings so had to run out and get new bearings...didnt think about those when started the job, have a Master Power disc brake kit with new spindles and bearings (that i decided not to use), but didn't think the bearings would work since they were from 76.

[Dmichels]

yes loctite
you only will need it if the holes are bad

[ws23rt]

If where you end up is with a hole that the stud is loose  (you can wiggle it a bit when all the way in) than loctite may not be enough.

You could end up at some point with a stud that will turn and be unable to hold the back side to get the nut off.
I've had to cut/grind the nut off to get the wheel off.  Tough to do without damaging the wheel

[Mopar Nut]

If where you end up is with a hole that the stud is loose  (you can wiggle it a bit when all the way in) than loctite may not be enough.

You could end up at some point with a stud that will turn and be unable to hold the back side to get the nut off.
I've had to cut/grind the nut off to get the wheel off.  Tough to do without damaging the wheel

This is where a new axle would be better, even a spot weld would not work either.

[Lord Warlock]

the last stud that i spoke about that fell into the hub was first sitting in position correctly but pushing the lug nut up against it caused it to push it in where i couldn't reach it behind the wheel.   I'm leaning toward replacing all 5 now,  whats the best way to knock the others out? with a hammer?  or sledge hammer?

Anyone got a good source for replacement RH thread studs?  gonna have to order 5 in next few days. 

[Mopar Nut]

I pulled my axle and had five studs/new bearings pressed in/on with new seals. I would be careful beating on your axle.  

[Lord Warlock]

Yes, i'll be careful when tapping on them to see if they come out, figure if two came out, the others will likely be ready to come out as well, but could be wrong, and don't want to mess up the axle, don't need to make more things i need to replace, have enough things to buy already. 

[ws23rt]

Yes, i'll be careful when tapping on them to see if they come out, figure if two came out, the others will likely be ready to come out as well, but could be wrong, and don't want to mess up the axle, don't need to make more things i need to replace, have enough things to buy already.  

The best way to remove the studs is with a hydraulic press.   I have driven them out with a hammer but they can be tough.

Also I've had trouble installing new ones to fully seat with the pulling them by the nut method. Using Anti-Seize on the threads is almost a must and the tapered point of the nut should be pointed out to be helpful.

[A383Wing]

I would use new studs, my opinion