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Before I start work on the car...

Started by Dino, August 18, 2013, 12:22:00 PM

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fy469rtse

#25
August 22, 2013, 02:22:44 AM
Quote from: Dino on August 21, 2013, 03:12:54 PM
Great idea Nick, thanks!   :2thumbs:

Here's a bunch of pics.  First are the wheels.  Driver side wheel well followed by the inside of the tire, then the passenger side.
Dino , it doesn't look like there rubbing all the time , just when you get a bit of side ways roll, you know that little bit of body flick and then they touch , a couple of alloy spaces, 

fy469rtse

#26
August 22, 2013, 02:29:58 AM
Dino very hard to tell when the fluid gets over everything, easier to clean it up nice and dry , run her and then watch for leaks, guessing , is it all tranny fluid or engine oil as well ? front pump seal behind torque convertor is always a culprit, but transmission has to come out for that ,and seal leaking can be a sign of other parts wearing causing seal to leak,
you could put on a new sump gasket, but first I would clean up then watch for leaks 

fy469rtse

#27
August 22, 2013, 02:31:50 AM
watch the carter pump specs, some are over rated for standard use , pressure and volume, will cause other issues if you don't use a regulator with it

remta1

#28
August 22, 2013, 04:48:03 AM
Quote from: fy469rtse on August 22, 2013, 02:29:58 AM
Dino very hard to tell when the fluid gets over everything, easier to clean it up nice and dry , run her and then watch for leaks, guessing , is it all tranny fluid or engine oil as well ? front pump seal behind torque convertor is always a culprit, but transmission has to come out for that ,and seal leaking can be a sign of other parts wearing causing seal to leak,
you could put on a new sump gasket, but first I would clean up then watch for leaks 

Great idea  :2thumbs:

Dino

#29
August 22, 2013, 08:11:48 AM
Thanks for the comments.   :2thumbs:

The tires seem fine in that there's no real wear to them.  All the rubbing did was smooth the undercoating.  It looks like it really dug in there but it's an optical illusion as I can't feel anything but a smooth patch.  Remove the thick undercoating and there would likely be no more rubbing.  Spacers would be nice though.  When I get a rear disc kit I may get lucky and find a way to bring the wheels out but I'd like to do it with the drums as well.  I just don't trust spacers much.  1/2" would do it though.

It looks like most of the grime is ATF mixed in with some fuel.  The fuel issue has been resolved though.  I noticed a small amount of engine oil seeping past the ps valve cover a few weeks back so I tightened both up and that solved that little issue. 

I ordered the Carter M4845 which came stock on many 440 cars.  Not correct for a 69 but I'm way past that point anyway.   :lol:
Now I have to find a place other than Year One to find the AF422 adapter so I'm hoping the local parts stores have one.

Pulling the trans is not going to happen so I'm hoping the issue is with the dipstick.  I'm only pulling the trans if it breaks or if the T-56 is ready to go in.   :yesnod:
I will clean the whole thing up so I can see where it comes from. 

I also ordered the repro voltage regulator, the one with the yellow lettering, and a 90 amp nippondenso alternator.  Time to do the ammeter bypass!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

#30
August 22, 2013, 10:14:59 AM
Alright, how do you install the new fuel and return line?  When I snake the back end around the exhaust and over the axle, I can't fit the front part through the cross member hole.  If I stick the line through the hole first, I can't get the back end in place...what's the trick here?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

#31
August 22, 2013, 03:43:23 PM
Copy from fuel line help thread.

I should never work on the car expecting everything will go flawlessly.  I know this, yet...

I also shouldn't do any work when it's pushing 90 and the sun is on the car.  Yet I did...

After the stands were under the hangers I dropped the axle, unbolted the rear ps exhaust tip hanger and that gave me the room to install the line.  When I held the new line against the old, they looked real similar.  Once you need that line to hug the frame, things change a bit.  After coming p with some new swear words, I was finally able to bend the line so it fits the entire frame real snug.  The back part however didn't feel convinced enough so I had a heck of a time bending and fitting the line until it finally laid were it needed to.  Before this I could get one clip in place, one.  Now they all fit without tension.  Of course this came at a price as I kinked the line.  Yeah....

Seeing this car ran fine with a 5/16 line, I don't think the small kink is going to give me trouble.  It's not that flat after all and it didn't crack.  If it does turn out to be an issue I can either get a new line (from a different company) or cut the bend out and slip a hose over it.  Whatever.

I'm done for the day, tomorrow is supposed to be cooler so I'll fit the return line and start putting it all back together.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

#32
August 23, 2013, 08:00:18 AM
The new fuel pump will be here tomorrow which means I can go look for the brass outlet fitting.  New alternator and voltage regulator will be here Monday.  The fuel sending unit now has the old resistor mated to it but it's a bit out of whack.  I'm reading 8 ohm at full so I need to bend the small metal arm in there to get the correct reading.  Not hard to do but it's very touchy so lots of trial and error here.  I'm probably pulling the cluster tomorrow so I can do the wiring upgrade and get that dang fuel gauge to read correctly.  Right now it shows a little under 1/4 when full so 30 minutes after filling up the needle is to the far left.  Not fun when you drive it much.  I'm not sure if I'm going to turn the ammeter into a volt meter.  I may just leave it as is for looks and hide an aftermarket volt gauge under the dash.  Not sure yet.  Opinions welcome as are pics of your ammeter turned volt meter.

Lots left to do but at least I'm at ease under the car now.   :2thumbs:

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

b5blue

#33
August 23, 2013, 03:41:40 PM
The fitting is common you should have no trouble, bring the pump with you to match up.  :2thumbs: Converting the ALT gauge would take weeks, how about a new OER brand, they are rated at 60 amp. (?) Did you pad the hood latch or are you wearing a hard hat?  :lol:

Dino

#34
August 23, 2013, 04:26:37 PM
Quote from: b5blue on August 23, 2013, 03:41:40 PM
The fitting is common you should have no trouble, bring the pump with you to match up.  :2thumbs: Converting the ALT gauge would take weeks, how about a new OER brand, they are rated at 60 amp. (?) Did you pad the hood latch or are you wearing a hard hat?  :lol:

That's what I figured, the pump should arrive tomorrow so I'll take that and the fuel line to the store.

There's a volt gauge for sale?  Where? When?..Where?   :icon_smile_big:

I am happy to say that the car is so high up, I couldn't hit my head on the latch if I tried.  Now the roof drip edge on the other hand... :eek2:   :lol:

Just pulled the cluster so time to do the upgrades and somehow add the power window loom to it all.   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.
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