Before I start work on the car...

[Dino]

..I need to start a thread about it!   

So I just got back from vacation which was very much needed!  I'm recharged and ready to tackle the work.  I gave the car a bath this morning and took it for a drive, now it's time to get serious.

There are a lot of things to do and although I don't need to do all of them, the more the better.  At this point, power windows are not the most pressing issue so that may have to wait until winter.  For now I am focusing on mechanical and electric to be sure the car is in good shape for a long time to come.

Off the top of my head, these are things I will be addressing:  Install new fuel and return line, new sending unit and vapor separator.  Remove radiator or clutch/blade to install fan shroud.  Install Firecore RTR system.  (Ron I will pm you shortly).  Install new mc, combo valve, residual valve and front disc kit and replace lines where needed.  Upgrade and repair rear drums.  Install new Edelbrock IAS shocks and install rear sway bar.  Install new a/c switch and repaired heater valve.  Install a/c system and connect the whole thing so heat and a/c finally work again.  Replace roof rail weather stripping and vent window seals.

There may be more but that's a good start!  I have all the parts but may need a few things when doing the brakes.  Nothing major or nothing I can't get soon though.

The vent window seals won't be done until both doors are properly aligned, ds especially is way off.  Once the doors are good, and I may need hinge rebuild kits to do so, then I can align the vent windows before I start work on converting manual windows to power.  At that time I will also do the other electrical stuff such as alarm and remote toys. 

First things first!  I cleaned the car as best as I could, including engine bay and the underside.  It's nice to work on a clean car.

Next up is setting it on stands so I can safely work on this thing.  My first question is, how high should I set the car?  The rear axle is about 11.5" off the ground.  The lowest setting on my stands is about 18.5" so that gives me a 7" rise without adjusting the stands.  I can crank the stands all the way up to 30" and although I would like to have good access from above, the access from below is more important.  For those who have spent time looking at the floor boards of their chargers, what height would you set it at?  I don't have a creeper, should I get one?  One of the harbor freight models okay?

When I have two stands under the rear axle I know I won't be able to install the shocks or sway bars, but I have 4 shorter stands I can use to change the load positions.  Where do I set the shocks under the front though?  K member or frame rails?

I'll be back with more questions and any advice is appreciated.  It is my choice to do these upgrades and I want to take my time and have fun doing it but safety is my major concern.  I just hate being under a car, even with these hd stands.

[JB400]

I'd get the car high enough that you can easily get under it, but are still comfortable working on it.  As far as getting a creeper, that's personal preference.  For me, I don't like them. When you try loosening a tight bolt, you roll away for your task.   I'm fine on my back, and use a rag or something or other to lay my head on.

Keep us updated

[1974dodgecharger]

I say high as possible, but if your gonna take apart the suspension not to high cause then the other jacks/lifts need to be just as high. 

As for creeper depends on how much you like being on your back.  When I was POR15 the underside by hand it was essentially a 4 week project on my back for 20mins at  a time and boy it was a pain on my body overall.  Im limited on my space I can work on my car so it worked out well.  I did the best I could with the stuff adn where I could put it next would be the spray rust convertor to get the cracks and seams.

Enjoy it before she gets taken apart.  I drove mine for 1 whole week before I disaassembled the rear end, POR15 the underbelly back there, gas tank down, everything I could. It was the case of, 'mind as well' attitude that kept my car off the road for 3 months and I put her back together just enough to get out of the garage and clean it again and put her back for a complete front end take down.

It will be fun....

[Dino]

I really do look forward to it.  I keep doing these little drives though to get as much behind the wheel time as I can and as long as I do so, nothing will get done!  I also have to keep telling myself I put a few thousand miles on it every year so a little break is not so bad.  I have a small ladder and a short step which will help doing the above work.  I'll have to be careful with the open hood and garage door though.  Don't want to mangle anything, putting that dent in the quarter was enough for this month.   

Good point about the rolling creeper, that would drive me nuts.  I'll try to get soft cardboard somewhere instead.   

I prefer cardboard on the ground anyway because there will be some spillage no doubt.  I still have that tiny yet annoying trans leak so this will be a good time to find and fix.

I will be posting pictures once the car is up so you can look it over.  There may be an issue going on I don't know about and I trust your collective eyes more than my own when it comes to these cars.  If you see something wrong, please point it out.

How does this sound?  Jack put the car by the pumpkin and place stands under the axle.  Jack up the front by the k member and place jacks where?  K member of frame rails?  When I raise the front, in theory the axle will roll over the stands without moving them, anyone try this in real life?

[Dino]

I did it!  I finally put it on stands!  

I jacked up the rear and placed the stands.  The axle tube fits the round portion of the stands perfectly.  Jacked up the front while my wife made sure the rear stands stayed put which they did.  I placed the other stands under the frame rails behind the front wheels where they become parallel to the ground but the nose is too heavy for this so I looked at the spot right behind the radiator support and wonder if that's a good option?  It should keep the car nice and stable but there's more metal work next to the rail so it's not going to sit flush on the stands.  I believe it's part of the inner fender, not sure as I didn't pay that much attention to what was in the way, just that it was.  I'm not sure what to do at this point.  EDIT:  It's the front bumper support brackets that are bolted to the frame rails.  The bottom of the rail and bracket is not flush.

Where else can I put the stands?  LCA's I assume but where exactly?  Rear bolts of the K member maybe?  I would love to have them under the frame though so I can use my other jack to lift and drop the suspension as I work on it.  The big jack will stay under the K member for support just in case.

As it sits, the bottom edge of the rocker pinch weld is 20" off the ground so ample room to work underneath.  Good access at the top still and lookie!  I can still open the garage door without ripping the hood off!  Bonus right there.  

If anyone wonders, yes I did loosen the wheel lug nuts before I raised the car, I may be blond but I make the best of it!  

[Dino]

More

[b5blue]

Before going any further.......wrap the secondary hood latch in foam! 

[1974dodgecharger]

looks sweet hope you got to enjoy as much as you could cause she seems like she aint coming down!!!! 

[green69rt]

I read someplace that if you use stands then you should use 8 of the buggers, but I can't remember why.  I seem to remember that two would go under the front frames in front of the front tire centerlines.  Two more under the frame close to the torsion bar cross member.  Two more close to the front of the rear springs and the final two in front of the rear spring hangers.  Something to do with trying to minimize the flex of the body, so you do need to take a little time to equalize the load on each stand, but I don't remember how you would do that??  Not much help huh?

[bakerhillpins]

Before going any further.......wrap the secondary hood latch in foam! 

Don't ask me why I agree with you! Really Agree with you.


Hey, dino, how did you clean the engine bay? Pressure wash, suds?  Mine is a mess and I want to clean it up before I replace the valley pan.

[tsmithae]

Before going any further.......wrap the secondary hood latch in foam! 

I sacrificed a tennis ball to the cause.

[Homerr]

When I reassembled my Charger back when I had jack stands under the frame rails at the rear, near the front spring hangers.  When the axle went back in later I did it as you did on the axle tube itself. I had the front jack stands under the frame rails at about the firewall (no motor).

When I put the motor back in I added another pair in front of the K-frame to support the big lump in the front.

I prefer the cardboard and coverall method for working under the car.

[Dino]

Before going any further.......wrap the secondary hood latch in foam! 

I 'may' have hit my head on it again recently, but I'll never admit it.   

Hey, dino, how did you clean the engine bay? Pressure wash, suds?  Mine is a mess and I want to clean it up before I replace the valley pan.

I don't have a pressure washer and I just needed to get the daily grime off so I used Super Clean, a biodegradable cleaner that works really well on grease.  I sprayed the entire engine bay and let it sit for a few minutes, then I fired up the engine and rinsed everything off with the garden hose.  It's not showroom clean but clean enough to work on it.  Any degreaser will work under the hood but if you have access to a pressure washer it'll work a bit better.  Hot water or steam are even better but using steam will require some more masking.  I didn't cover a thing, just looked where I sprayed. 

I put the stands right behind the radiator support and it seems to hold it up nicely.  I can't get the car to move when I push it and it still hasn't tumbled down so I think I'm good to go!   

I have 4 more shorter stands I will be placing here and there for added security but I have to say, these huge 12 ton stands sure make me feel more at ease.

You can also use a degreaser and brush it on the parts that need it, then fire up the engine and rinse it off.

[Troy]

I'm a little late but I had tome hings to add:
1. yes, if you put the rear axle up first then it will rotate on the stands when you raise the front.
2. Harbor Freight makes these cool rubber tops for their jack stands which will keep them from scratching as things settle. They cost almost as much as the stands though!
3. Be careful of the jack location on the k-member as the one "flat" spot is actually the weakest part and will bend. I have a rubber pad on my jack that deforms and works well on the rear edge of the k-member.
4. In front, I put the jack stands on the lower control arms when I have them under the rear axle so the suspension is loaded all the way around. If I put the jack stands under the frame then I do it all the way around.
5. I put the car as high as I can. Nothing like trying to use a breaker bar when you only have 6" of clearance! Of course, now I have air tools but it's still nice to have extra room to lay sideways or maneuver to find something to grab onto for extra leverage.
6. I have a creeper but only use it about half the time (usually if I have to constantly shift in and out). Cardboard is better for fluid changes and stuck bolts. Mine is from Harbor Freight. It's the molded plastic one with the head cushion. It's easy to clean, has "pockets" for tools or nuts/bolts/parts, and rolls well.

Troy

[Dino]

Not that I'm worried of scratching that beautiful axle but I'll have to look at those rubber stand tops.  With the sales HF has I'm sure it won't be too bad.  I can't believe how cheap some of their stuff is yet not all of it is garbage.  I paid a whopping $5 for a transfer pump, stuck it in the fill tube of the Charger, pumped once and it emptied the tank into a container real fast with no issues or leaks.  For $5 I expected the pump to disintegrate by removing it from the package!   

You're right about the center of the K member as mine is pretty bend inwards from previous owners.  I use the rear edge of the frame like you do, no issues with that so far.  I do have the jack positioned right under the center with the load off, just in case the stands give way.  Which btw they will never do, these things are huge. 

I was under the car a bit yesterday to remove the old fuel line and sending unit and the height was perfect so for anyone wanting to do some work in their garage, get these stands and set the car about 20" from the ground, measured at the bottom of the rocker pinch weld.

I looked at the creeper at HF and I like it, but I doubt I'll use it.  So far it's working out nicely with cardboard and old t shirts as a pillow.  I did get the ultra soft cardboard though, I'm not 20 anymore.. 

Since I was not going to reuse the old fuel line, I made a big bend in the center to get it out but of course I can't do that with the new lines so something had to give.  I removed the ps side exhaust hanger which gave me some more room but not enough.  I then removed the ps rear shock and that gave me all the clearance I needed.  When I had the shock in my hand I wanted to see how much bounce it had left so I pushed it in by hand, all the way to its shortest spot and when I let it go it never moved...gee I wonder why my car rides hard on those potholes!   

The new shock do not push in until I put some weight behind it.  This is gonna be nice.   

I have both sending units on my bench and can see why the  repro's are linear, the only issue here is the cap but it would need work to transplant so I'll just transplant the entire thing, a welder would be nice right about now. 

I also cleaned around the fuel pump and have the vapor separator in place but the pump is an aftermarket model and does not have the provision for the short hard line.  I can buy a Carter pump for about $30 but have no clue where to find the adapter for the line.  The pump to carb line seems to fit nicely but I need an adapter to screw it into the carb.  I hope local places have these things.

So far everything's going fine, all seems well underneath but I do hope to find that trans leak, it's messy down there!

I won't have the firecore system for a while but I can do that when it's back on the ground.  I do want to swap my alternator for something better or may just do the upgrade kit they sell.  80 or 105 amp stator would take the place of whatever is in there now.  Only $60 and it seems like an easy option. 
http://alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm
Or I can go with a GM unit or whatever, I don't really care as long as it's a direct or almost direct bolt in and it keeps the wipers going at idle.  Thoughts?

I also want to pull my cluster again so I can fix the few dead lights and calibrate the gauges.  Besides, I need to get rid of the alt gauge anyway.  Who sells volt overlay decals again?

How can I put power to the cluster while out of the car?  I also need to find out the true oil pressure and water temp so I guess I have to wait till the rest is done so I can have the car running so I can compare with aftermarket gauges, or is there another way?

Not sure what to do with the exhaust yet.  I would love to just buy a new H pipe but I have no clue what headers I have so that'll be a bit of a risk.  Dammit I need a welder...

Oh and both rear tires are rubbing, but not where I thought it was.  In short, I'm gonna have to find a way to push the wheels more towards the quarter lip.

I will post a bunch of pics later, I still need to resize them.

[Nickrc3]

[quoteI looked at the creeper at HF and I like it, but I doubt I'll use it.  So far it's working out nicely with cardboard and old t shirts as a pillow.  I did get the ultra soft cardboard though, I'm not 20 anymore..][/quote]

Use those inexpensive mover blankets HF sells.  For a neck support, roll one up and secure with Ty-wraps.
I also use old outdoor furniture cushions.

Always enjoyed your posts. Good luck with the cleanup. Did the same on my 69' last year.

[Dino]

Great idea Nick, thanks!   

Here's a bunch of pics.  First are the wheels.  Driver side wheel well followed by the inside of the tire, then the passenger side.

[Dino]

Next up is
the old shock absorber in it's natural state...completely dead.  The old and new sending unit electrical parts.  Note the tapered wind in the old compared to the linear wind in the new.  I have removed both and transplanted the old onto the new sending unit, all I have to do is take it to a welder and that'll be that.

I also included 2 pics of the fuel pump area, I cleaned it with a spray can of grease remover followed by some water.  I need to clean this thing more often!   

[Dino]

Orange anyone?

[Dino]

Next are the oily pictures.  I can see a little drop of transmission oil at the tip of the bell housing but really everything is covered in the stuff, floors included.  Where do I need to look for the source(s) of the leak?  I would like to not park over cardboard...

[Dino]

more

[Dino]

more

[JB400]

I'd look at the front seal of the trans.  At least that's a good start anyway.  You might also check your lines to see if you have any cracks as well.

How much fluid do you lose and how often do you fill it back up?

[Dino]

Apart from prepping the fuel sending unit I didn't do much but I did clean up all the mess I made and put all the tools back in their place.  It's nice to be organized.  

Once the sending unit is in the tank it's time to install the fuel lines, find out what kind of rubber hoses I need and get clamps.  I could connect pump and vapor separator with a short piece of hose but I think I'll say goodbye to the old pump and get a new Carter M4845 and find the adapter.  More pics to follow as work slowly progresses. I need to find a new alternator and brackets as well so I need to focus on that.  

[Dino]

I'd look at the front seal of the trans.  At least that's a good start anyway.  You might also check your lines to see if you have any cracks as well.

How much fluid do you lose and how often do you fill it back up?

It drips a bit every time I park it but I never fill it back up.  I did check the level when I removed my radiator a while back and it was a little low but not bad.  I topped it off so I'll check later to see where it's at.