Torsion bar argh.......

[1974dodgecharger]

Her what I have done and still can't remove it and I read some topics where guys just slide it right out with their hand...

1. Losses lower nut between the LCD arm so no tension on torsion bar. Back all the way mind me.

2. Took round pin out the rear.

3. Pry bar between LCD and k member. Moved a tad....

No go....no budge.  I used some rags with vise grips over it and banged the vise and it did not budge.  Am I. Missing something?  Maybe a bold I need to loosen.....I plan to upgrade to hotchkis torsion bars.

[Fred]

Have you tried soaking them with RW-40? Leave them soaking overnight then try it again with vice grips and a bigger hammer this time. Worked a charm for me.

[1974dodgecharger]

Have you tried soaking them with RW-40? Leave them soaking overnight then try it again with vice grips and a bigger hammer this time. Worked a charm for me.

Alright I guess I'll do that lol...I'm so impatient.  Well report banck tomorrow thx Fred as usual.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Don't use vise grips, they won't work if the bar is stuck and will dig into the bar leaving marks.

This is what you need. Works great.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/tobarreabceb.html

Did you take off the bump stops for the control arm? Is the shock still connected? If so unhook them and let the control arm hang down as far as it can.

[1974dodgecharger]

i left the strut rods in but removed the bolt that goes into the lca. removed the front bolt also thats 24mm for the lca on front.


i did not remove the bump stop that sits ontop of the lca.  shocks are off and unbolted the sway bar end links.


gonna look into that tool....

[bull]

Sometimes they come out easy, usually not. Are you replacing them or just tearing it down to rebuild the front end? If you're going to replace them you can use whatever you want to get them out as long as you don't ding something else up. If not I'd get a removal tool.

The only thing I'll say about that Mancinin tool is that is looks pretty whimpy, although I've never used it. The original Chrysler t-bar removal tool had a long handle you could grab onto while hitting the base but that one doesn't have that.

[1974dodgecharger]

Sometimes they come out easy, usually not. Are you replacing them or just tearing it down to rebuild the front end? If you're going to replace them you can use whatever you want to get them out as long as you don't ding something else up. If not I'd get a removal tool.

The only thing I'll say about that Mancinin tool is that is looks pretty whimpy, although I've never used it. The original Chrysler t-bar removal tool had a long handle you could grab onto while hitting the base but that one doesn't have that.

im gonna replace them with hotchis ones so i could just use my vise it and hammer it and it should come out?


i think its stuck in lca pretty snug....ill give t a try tomorrow been at it all day on and off.....

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Sorry, I meant the upper control arm bump stop not the lower. Just keep hammering, they will loosen up eventually. The next hard part is getting those damn urethane dust boots over the bars.

The tool works well, I've used it many of times. It does start to bend after a few uses but it gets the job done. Also its the only one I could find when I was shopping for one?

[moparguy01]

i had issues removing my bars last year. I didn't have one of those fancy tools. BUT i had a 2x4 that was about 4.5 feet long. I cut a 1 foot chunk off, used a saw to make a triangle cut in each board just a touch smaller than the T bar diameter, and drilled holes for 4 long bolts. tightened it on over the bar and whacked the 2x4. Came off real easy. and I did it with scraps in the garage and about 20 minutes.  Yes, I'm a cheapass. 

[1974dodgecharger]

Thx guys I got the passenger side out!!!,  sprayed wd40 like crazy over night, removed upper bump stop, vise grip, banged it, saw a slight movement, banged more, wiggled while pulling, bang more, wiggle and viola it came out.  So much dirt in the crossmember part I could hear it grind whil pulling it and well the rubber boot ripped trying to get it out one end. Mind as well buy new ones now.

[Fred]

Thx guys I got the passenger side out!!!,  sprayed wd40 like crazy over night, removed upper bump stop, vise grip, banged it, saw a slight movement, banged more, wiggled while pulling, bang more, wiggle and viola it came out.

   

  So much dirt in the crossmember part I could hear it grind whil pulling it and well the rubber boot ripped trying to get it out one end. Mind as well buy new ones now.

After 40 years, you wouldn't want to put them back anyway. Definitely get new ones.

[68 RT]

On my 68 the pass side bar took about 30-40 good hits with a sledge hammer to get it moving. The drivers side came out with 2 hits. Buy the removal tool, it has more surface area to hit. spray with wd, liquid whrech etc. 

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Thx guys I got the passenger side out!!!,  sprayed wd40 like crazy over night, removed upper bump stop, vise grip, banged it, saw a slight movement, banged more, wiggled while pulling, bang more, wiggle and viola it came out.  So much dirt in the crossmember part I could hear it grind whil pulling it and well the rubber boot ripped trying to get it out one end. Mind as well buy new ones now.

The hotchkis bars should come with new polyurethane boots. If you didn't get them call hotchkis and they will hook you up.   

[1974dodgecharger]

Thx guys I got the passenger side out!!!,  sprayed wd40 like crazy over night, removed upper bump stop, vise grip, banged it, saw a slight movement, banged more, wiggled while pulling, bang more, wiggle and viola it came out.  So much dirt in the crossmember part I could hear it grind whil pulling it and well the rubber boot ripped trying to get it out one end. Mind as well buy new ones now.

The hotchkis bars should come with new polyurethane boots. If you didn't get them call hotchkis and they will hook you up.   

On order now!!!  Good I saw some boots I think they wanted 34 dollars at some other competitor site for torsion bars and their torsion bars were 330 and no clips just plain bars then add in the boots damn...Hotchkis seems expensive up front, but damn it was a better deal in the end.

[Budnicks]

Don't use vise grips, they won't work if the bar is stuck and will dig into the bar leaving marks.

This is what you need. Works great.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/tobarreabceb.html

Did you take off the bump stops for the control arm? Is the shock still connected? If so unhook them and let the control arm hang down as far as it can.

[MrSnicks]

I am sorry for your pain.       I don't have anything else to add to this thread because mine came out with a little bit of prying on the LCA......  


Patrick

[1974dodgecharger]

I am sorry for your pain.       I don't have anything else to add to this thread because mine came out with a little bit of prying on the LCA......  


Patrick

lol....im now having issues with the driver side damn it......ran out of PB blast and wd40..yes thats how much I sprayed.

[Fred]

If you're having that much trouble with it, put some heat on it. Make sure you've got a fire extinguisher on hand just in case. You'll find heat works wonders. If you're still using the vice grips and you've got a welder handy (if you're not saving them) then put a little weld on the torsion bars where you'll place your vice grips so that they won't slip and give it another go. I think you'll find that will work for you.

[1974dodgecharger]

Thinking of Cutting Dremel this bar in half and it better come out.........



it has now been REMOVED! i know realazed in my case its not the lca part that makes it stuck but the crossmember there is so much dirt i there it causes friction and no more for the torsion bars to come out the rear end.  i made my own remover with some unistruct and that broke but only after the fact it removed the tb halfway out then resorted back to vise grips that did the rest took me 3 days at 20mins each time except 3rd day took me 45mins of major banging.