Bare metal primer advice

[bandit70]

I am working on body now and took a couple spots down to bare metal.   I planned on spraying 2k epoxy on bare spots myself and letting a local shop spray the 2k primer and top coat.   I just discovered my compresssor sucks and is leaking oil into the lines.   Not worth the gamble to try and filter it out to find out a year later it is failing from oil getting into it.    I need a rattle can of something to put on the bare metal spots today as I am working around the car prepping it for the body shop to spray 2k urethane.    They are closed today otherwise I would call them.  I have time to work on it today so want to get these spots covered asap but do not want a solution that needs to be sanded off again.  I have my filler just right and do not want to cut into it again with sanding.

How does that zinc primer(weld through primer) hold up to having 2k urethane sprayed over it.  I have a can left over from another project.   I know most spray can 1k primers do not interact with 2k well but have not heard anything about zinc primer.

[cdr]

DO NOT USE THE WELDABLE PRIMER   use sandable rustoleum for shakey can.

[Silver R/T]

Do not use rattle cans, as they're not true 2K primer that is catalyzed. Your best bet is to use good quality epoxy primer. I would let body shop handle this. Bare metal is not going to rust overnight unless it's very humid where you are or it rained on the body of the car. Try to avoid touching bare metal with your hands as it will leave moisture/oil from your fingers on bare metal.

[cudaken]

Do not use rattle cans, as they're not true 2K primer that is catalyzed. Your best bet is to use good quality epoxy primer. I would let body shop handle this. Bare metal is not going to rust overnight unless it's very humid where you are or it rained on the body of the car. Try to avoid touching bare metal with your hands as it will leave moisture/oil from your fingers on bare metal.

Sound Advices.

Cuda Ken

[Dino]

Use the spray can to protect the body until it's ready for the good stuff if time is an issue.  At that time the spray can paint HAS to be removed before 2k primer goes on.  I have a can of sandable primer from a local big box store that works great for that purpose.  It protects the bare metal in our humid summer climate and is removed in no time. 

[warpspeed]

PPG has a product with a phosphate coating in it.  It's a two parts water to one part chemical.  Use that to remove light rust and leave a phosphate protective coating on the bare metal.  This will assure you that it won't rust again as long as no water or moisture get to it.  Then spray on the primer coatings on it you want.

[Aero426]

Do not use rattle cans, as they're not true 2K primer that is catalyzed. Your best bet is to use good quality epoxy primer. I would let body shop handle this. Bare metal is not going to rust overnight unless it's very humid where you are or it rained on the body of the car. Try to avoid touching bare metal with your hands as it will leave moisture/oil from your fingers on bare metal.

Normally, I would agree completely with this.   There is now an option of Eastwood's 2 part epoxy promer in a rattle can.    It has two internal chambers.  When you break the seal, it has a 24 hour pot life to use it.  It would be an option for small projects.   Yes, I'd probably sand it off before applying whatever system is going to be used for the real paint job.  

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aero-spray-epoxy-primer-gray.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&adtype=pla&kw=&matchtype=&network=g&creativeid=15752127567&placement=&producttargetid=40408680567&gclid=CJyn0uyoj7kCFfBcMgodDCwAZg

[Silver R/T]

For $20 a spray can you better get some SPI epoxy and have someone spray it in their shop for you.