Update on my 73 Charger, still in the shop

[WH23G3G]

My 73 Charger is still in the shop. They are trying to get it tuned right enough to drive. The mechanic said he's got the timing straightened out, the transmission working properly, and found no vacuum leaks at the intake or elsewhere. It's running the 6321S Thermoquad that I had restored by Carb Xchange out of California. The mechanic says it runs too rich and he can't get to adjust right. So I also had a reman 6322S Thermoquad reman'd by Holley that I bought at Summit. He says it runs worse than the one I had restored. He said it lopes like it has a cam too big. All I used when I rebuilt the engine is a CS-661 from Sealed Power, the stock replacement they offered. The only other difference is the motor is .040 over. The heads are correct for 73 400-440 and were rebuilt with new springs and valves by a shop that only rebuilds cylinder heads. I asked the mechanic if the manifold was leaking and he said he couldn't find any vacuum leaks. I asked if the heat riser flapper would make a difference. Because we repaired it but the flapper was the wrong size so when it's closed it doesn't cover the hole. He said that didn't matter on the way it's running now. I also only ran a valley pan and not the gaskets on the side of the heads to manifold. What else could be causing it to run rich? The choke thermostat is new too.

[flyinlow]

If you left out the heat riser ,once the engine is fully warm the only problem you might have is an exhaust leak.

I am assuming its a BB?

Did you put the square cross section o rings in the bottom of the phenolic section? Wrong rings or no rings will cause problems on a TQ.

EGR valve is not stuck open? won't idle with that, big vacuum leak.

TQ's used special coating on the throttle bushing. Easy to damage if bead or sand blasted.

I assume the choke is open when warmed up?

Is it too rich by an exhaust analyzer or A/F ratio gauge?

[WH23G3G]

This is a 400 bb. The heat riser on the passenger side exhaust works perfect. I got an NOS repair kit for because the original flapper was broken. However the flapper valve was for a later engine with a smaller bore so when it's closed it doesn't fully cover the bore. It has no egr, it's using the original 73 manifold which has the floor jets which are clean. I don't know if the choke is opening, he did say the choke wasn't causing an issue. I didn't rebuild the carb I sent it to carb-xchange and they rebuilt it. They said they get a lot of carbs to restore for show cars. They also live tested it on a running engine and adjusted idle, fast idle, and mixture before sending it back. They rebush the shafts too if excessive play is found. My mechanic just says it's running too rich. He's a racer and drives all 50s,60s, and 70s cars but all GM. So I doubt he's using a gas analyzer but maybe just a vacuum gauge or just by experience. He told me he could rebuilt it or I should go get an Edelbrock. I've got over $200 in the 6322S I got from Summit, which now I don't know what to do with since it's been well over 90 days and it's been on the engine. I originally bought the 6321S for $80 on EBAY that's the carb he says is the better of the two. Then I spent $200+ getting it restored. So I really don't want to throw out another $300-$400 for an Edelbrock, adapter, and linkage kit. The company that restored it said to ship it back and they will rebuild it again but it's out of warranty too, so it's another $189. I don't know if they will do anything to help me out, but I doubt it. So I'm probably going to send this thing out and see what they say about it again. What about a 6342S which is correct for a 73 400, it's a California emission carb with smaller secondaries, do you think it might run better? Or what else is common causing rich condition?   

[flyinlow]

Too rich on a TQ:
Float level too high from improper adjustment, dirty needle and seat, or too much fuel pressure.

[WH23G3G]

What would anyone here suggesst to do this time? I've gone through 3 Thermoquads now. First was 9096S which ran decent but after I rebuilt it gas started leaking out around the shaft so it probably needs to be rebushed now. But it actually performed ok. Then I got the 6321S rebuilt once by the supposed "Thermoquad expert" which after I noticed it wasn't running any different found out that it was never taken apart by him and lost $150 on that deal. Then I got the 6322S from Summit which the mechanic now says runs worse than the 6321S. So I'm in the hole $60 for rebuilding myself two of the carbs to begin with, $90 for the original purchase of the 6321S, $150 stolen, $200 for it again restored by Carb-xchange, and $250 for the 6322S. So I'm about $550 in the hole with no change in how my engine runs. The mechanic I'm at now says he can rebuild or for me to by an Edelbrock 650. Or I can send it back to carb-xchange and they can go through it again and possibly charge me another $189+shipping to rebuild and adjust it again. Or should I just buy one of these rebuilt ones on EBAY or a parts store again? I asked the mechanic if he thought anything was wrong with the engine that might be causing it and he the engine is fine and for me not worry about it. What should I do?