Need help identifying parts

[remta1]

Hi guys can someone help me identify the parts  A and B  in the photo ...probably called something different over here 

[AKcharger]

WOW small picture but A looks like a voltage regulator and B....I can't make it out

[remta1]

sorry hope this helps

[Dino]

The bigger one is a voltage regulator or limiter.  12 volts come in but only 5 volts can go to the gauges.  Any more and they will fry.  It opens and closes the 12v circuit rapidly so the output is only 5v.  The small cylinder is the capacitor that smooths out the voltage sweep.  You can buy an upgraded limiter that looks like the old and does not need the capacitor.  You can also build one yourself with radio shack parts, but only the upgraded limiter protects against power surges.

[remta1]

awesome thanks for the help

[remta1]

The bigger one is a voltage regulator or limiter.  12 volts come in but only 5 volts can go to the gauges.  Any more and they will fry.  It opens and closes the 12v circuit rapidly so the output is only 5v.  The small cylinder is the capacitor that smooths out the voltage sweep.  You can buy an upgraded limiter that looks like the old and does not need the capacitor.  You can also build one yourself with radio shack parts, but only the upgraded limiter protects against power surges.

okay so I have found the voltage regulator I need on ebay ,.but cant seem to find the capacitor on ebay or the upgraded voltage regulator with the built in capacitor anyt ideas or help greatly appreciated

[MaximRecoil]

okay so I have found the voltage regulator I need on ebay ,.but cant seem to find the capacitor on ebay or the upgraded voltage regulator with the built in capacitor anyt ideas or help greatly appreciated

The good one is from RTE - link, though it is quite a bit more expensive than buying a stock style replacement regulator plus capacitor (AKA: condenser). You'll need to click on their application guide links to determine whether you need the IVR4 or the IVR3.

The main advantage of the solid-state RTE regulator over the points-type stock regulator is that it will never "stick" like the points-type regulator can. When the points in the stock type regulator stick, it sends a constant 12 volts to your fuel, temperature, and oil pressure gauges, which will first ruin the accuracy of your gauges by burning the fiberglass insulation off the nichrome wires in your gauges, and if the 12 volts continues long enough, it will burn through the wire in each gauge, resulting in completely dead gauges.

As mentioned previously in this thread, you can also build one from Radio Shack parts for just a few dollars, using a linear solid-state 5v regulator and a heat sink, which is what I did in my car, but the RTE regulator is better, mainly because it gets the gauge needles moving quickly when you start the car, just like the stock regulator does, while the linear regulator takes a minute or two to slowly move the needles to where they are supposed to be.   

[remta1]

Hey thanks this is great info , I will go down this route , thanks for the advise 

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

You really don't need the capacitor with either of the electronic regulators. The capacitor was there so you didn't hear clicks in the radio when the points on the old thermal/mechanical regulator opened and closed.

The RTE regulator is a nice neat package and has some advantages in that it responds like the original regulator. The linear regulator is quite a bit less expensive to build but make sure you use a good size heat sink. Most of the heat sinks I've seen in on line articles about this approach are too small. I did a bench mock up of this circuit and found that I needed a 1-1/2 x 4-1/2" heatsink with 3/8" high fins to keep the regulator a a reasonable temperature at maximum load.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Got the RTE in mine. Works great and no radio noise from it. Go electronic either way....

[ODZKing]

While we're at it, a fellow asked over at another forum and I am curious as well.
What is this part? He has a 73 and my 73 Charger has one  -  and it gets very hot.
Not hazard flasher and not turn signal which is by the ash tray anyway.
I can't find it on the schematic either. I would be interested in what it is as well.

[Dino]

Ignition switch light maybe?

[tan top]

Ignition switch light maybe?

   

yep  ignition switch time delay relay , in there is a bimetallic strip when it heats up after a few seconds it brakes the circuit  , lamp goes off ,  if it gets warm or hot , as in burn finger hot ( no joke)   is malfunctioning  ,  disconnect it  & replace it ASAP

[ODZKing]

Huh! And still available through Chrysler.  Was most recently used in the Viper line!!!!
2889565 - Relay time delay
MSRP    Core    Online Price
$17.70    $0.00    $12.72

[Dino]

I wonder if the actual light and bracket is still available.  My bracket is bent and the bulb part is gone.  I don't know how I did that...but I did...

[ODZKing]

2864224 my friend.  NS1=no longer available.
Good news is if you're looking for a used one, Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Belvedere, Satellite, Coronet & Chrysler Imperial all take the same one.

[Dino]

2864224 my friend.  NS1=no longer available.
Good news is if you're looking for a used one, Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Belvedere, Satellite, Coronet & Chrysler Imperial all take the same one.

Sweet!  I'll go find one!  Thanks Bob.